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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2011, 12:35 PM
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Default 347 forged and rod bearings

As I look for new bearings for my crank ground 030, the usual trobles come along when look for a chamfered & coated bearings. Because the part number I have used for my 306 w/2.100 journals are for Chevy V6 /Checker cab(?), CB1227P, there's no chambfered bearing listed for that application (as I could find).

Anyway. The real surprise come when I check the old bearings in my 347 forged crank which, as stated in Eagles catalogue, MUST USE chamfered bearings. To my surprise the part numbers on these were CB1227P as well. And as far as I can see & feel they do not have any chamfer. And these are the bearings that came with the stroker kit!

I even tried magnifiers and also looked at a brand new set of bearings (020, for the 306), but still cannot see any chamfer in either side of the bearing shells. I might be an old man with some body functions like sight getting less effective.... So excuse me if I'm wrong at this point.

These rods are supposed to use Cheby SB bearings, as I understand. And I did find a couple of part numbers, chambered and coated, that might be good(?). for instance Sealed Power ZC87100CH30.

This time I'm listening to a prof. engine builder who tell me to run coated & chamfered (he has kept the radius 0.125" as on a new crank) bearings on the rods.

I'd be happy if someone could verify my findings above and even the suitability of the Sealed part number...

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RuneS.
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:26 PM
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If it an Eagle rod that is in the engine it is not as wide as a small block chevy rod. It is a 2.100 sb chevy rod diameter but a Ford narrower width. This is why you have to use the V6 style bearing. The main thing you to worry about when the bearings are installed is that they have side clearance between the bearing. You want to make sure the bearing is not riding up on the radius of the crank. I think the bearing is located in the rod where it has clearance at the radius, thus not having to have the radius rod. Push the rod up against the side of the crank and make sure it goes up all the way agianst it and does try ride up on the radius. You can check with a feeler gauge like you do the side clearance between the rods.
There will be no heat treated bearing because they have notr them for this application. You can get the bearing you want to use and have it coated. This is soemthing that Eagle did with there crank and rod set up when they first came out with this stuff.

Good luck, Keith Craft
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Old 11-20-2011, 02:11 PM
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Good answer, Keith.

This was what I was beggining to think as well- when I studied the used bearings. No sign of any damage to either side as the width / chamfering should be OK. Actually, all bearing surfaces looks OK- unless on the two that got ripped apart.

And I remember checking the rod side clearance when engine was assembled as well. So it looks like th Clevite part number will be going this round too.

By the way; could it be an option to use a chamfered /coated 350 bearing and take off some width?
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:18 PM
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They do make a narrowed 350 heat treated and chamfered bearing but it is still to wide. You would have to narrow it from both sides and then re-chamfer. We use to do this on some of the bearings when we were using a .900 wide rod. The stock sb Chevy is .940 wide and a sb Ford is .833. If you got the sb Chevy bearing like you ask about you would have to put in the rod and then you would see where to narrow it. I believe you have to do some on each side of the bearing.

Thanks, Keith
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Old 11-21-2011, 03:31 AM
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You're probably 100% right, Keith.

Sounds like too much work & I'll stick with the CB1227P

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RuneS.
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