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10-19-2012, 07:59 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Voorhees,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR #1230/B2 445CI SBF
Posts: 295
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Not Ranked
Carb linkeage options
I am looking to lose the cable set up. I like the linkeage I see on many of the cars pictured here which use a rod/rod end/bracket set up. Are there specific ones that best fit these cars?
thx
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Gary Bowman
Voorhees NJ/Key Largo Fla/Ventnor NJ
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10-19-2012, 08:42 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Buy 3/8 or 7/16 OD steel (preferable) or aluminum rod (McMaster), 5/16 / 24 x 5/16 hole rod ends (Summit, Jegs or McMaster), size rod, tap ends, add jam nuts. Fasten to linkage with 5/16 grade 8 bolt(s). Allow for adjustment.
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Chas.
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10-19-2012, 09:09 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Voorhees,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR #1230/B2 445CI SBF
Posts: 295
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Not Ranked
Chas-thx, what about from there to the pedal? What does that set up look like?
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Gary Bowman
Voorhees NJ/Key Largo Fla/Ventnor NJ
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10-19-2012, 10:05 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Holderness, NH, US of A,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX 4772 old iron FE
Posts: 5,499
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Not Ranked
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10-19-2012, 11:26 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBowman
Chas-thx, what about from there to the pedal? What does that set up look like?
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Standard ERA shafts, bellcranks and pivot bracket-all heim also. Steel rod bell crank is under footbox and exits at forward edge of box-then aft to pivot and bellcrank on firewall edge of footbox. Pedal is curved steel-drilling it makes it cool . 
Acton's stuff is male threaded rod and female ends-your preference. Just get rid of cables...
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Chas.
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10-19-2012, 12:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Voorhees,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR #1230/B2 445CI SBF
Posts: 295
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Not Ranked
Chas-perfect thx for the help, SWEET ride You have there BTW 
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Gary Bowman
Voorhees NJ/Key Largo Fla/Ventnor NJ
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10-19-2012, 06:51 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Louisville,
Oh
Cobra Make, Engine: A&C 67 427 cobra SB
Posts: 2,445
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Not Ranked
If you want a 60's erra look, linkage is the way to go, but be warned. When a motor mount broke, the engine would raise up and pull the throttle open. I have seen many remedies. Drill the mount and put a bolt through it, chain between frame and engine, etc. If you go linkage, make sure engine stays put when a mount breaks.
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10-19-2012, 07:26 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Brisbane,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine:
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And also make sure the pedal has a positive stop on the floorboard.
All accelerator pedals should have one, not all cars do due to poor design.
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Gary
Gold Certified Holden Technician
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10-19-2012, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz64
And also make sure the pedal has a positive stop on the floorboard.
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...or at the end of travel of the primary linkage. Moroso makes this one and it's adjustable-in case you want the wife to only have 1/2 throttle... 
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Chas.
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10-19-2012, 09:16 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Brisbane,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine:
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Needs to be under the pedal, otherwise you bend everything else prior to the stop.
All of my cars have stops under the pedal, no added stress to linkages, carbs or throttle bodies.
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Gary
Gold Certified Holden Technician
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10-19-2012, 09:21 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Holderness, NH, US of A,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX 4772 old iron FE
Posts: 5,499
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10-20-2012, 07:00 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz64
Needs to be under the pedal, otherwise you bend everything else prior to the stop.
All of my cars have stops under the pedal, no added stress to linkages, carbs or throttle bodies.
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No bend or stress on anything for a decade of moderate WOT. Cost: about $20...
Nothing wrong with pedal stops either. Wouldn't have it on my car or suggested it if it didn't work. 
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Chas.
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