SBF Starter questions

[SF_SN888KE]

Have a Powermaster 9603.1 starter, 11 tooth, (connectors on the Right side), that went bad - gear spins in both directions! Only 7k miles on car. Ordered new 9603 from Summit but connectors on the wrong side (Left side) and battery post was too short. (9603 picture from Powermaster is the same as my current 9603.1 - what gives?. Although Summit picture is what I received)

Anyway, 427 SBF, 10.5 compression (?), 5sp, 8 quart Avid oil pan. Always seemed to have slow cranking. Changed battery which helped. Thinking of a higher torque starter.

Current 9603.1 has 11 tooth gear, 3/4" offset. Looks like many High Torque (max 18:1 compression) have 9 tooth gears.

Do I have to use an 11 tooth gear starter or can I use a 9 tooth gear replacement?

Recommendations for new starter? MSD 5090 looks interesting.

[bobcowan]

Your compression isn't that high, even at sea level. If you're having problems with slow cranking, it's probably not the starter, it's somewhere else.

Consider buying an off the shelf starter from Autozone. Pick one from a 5.0 Mustang with a manual transmission. You are getting a high torque starter, in a small package. The advantage to that is that if it dies, you take it back for a new one.

That's what I'm using, and it works just fine.

[bobcowan]

Your compression isn't that high, even at sea level. If you're having problems with slow cranking, it's probably not the starter, it's somewhere else.

Consider buying an off the shelf starter from Autozone. Pick one from a 5.0 Mustang with a manual transmission. You are getting a high torque starter, in a small package. The advantage to that is that if it dies, you take it back for a new one.

That's what I'm using, and it works just fine. It didn't cost $200 either.

[Luce]

I'll second that. I paid 75$ for a new chineese one off ebay and it spins my 427 just fine.

The higher compresion ratio only makes the first 1/2 rev harder on the starter. After that, the cylinders coming off compression help as much as the ones going up hurt... unless you have excessive leakdown for some reason.

[PLDRIVE]

SF

Before u go trash the starter, call powermaster and let them take a look at the starter. I have owned several of their products over the years and find their TECH dept. to be top notch. They go the extra mile too help.

MP

[sharpe 1]

I would be checking for a solid ground at the starter and engine

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

Your compression isn't that high, even at sea level. If you're having problems with slow cranking, it's probably not the starter, it's somewhere else.

Consider buying an off the shelf starter from Autozone. Pick one from a 5.0 Mustang with a manual transmission. You are getting a high torque starter, in a small package. The advantage to that is that if it dies, you take it back for a new one.

That's what I'm using, and it works just fine. It didn't cost $200 either.

Like this one:

BesTest 03-0508X - Starter | O'Reilly Auto Parts

it has been spinning the 13.5 to 1 compression 331 stroker in my race car since 2004!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

be sure to ask for one for a standard transmission, there is a difference in the one for an automatic and a standard, it's the nose length......

David

[SF_SN888KE]

I'll call Powermaster on Monday, but the shaft turns BOTH directions. I think the bendix(?) is busted.

My Powermaster does not have the NOSE cover on the front of the starter. Looks like the stock Mustang (others including Ford Racing) have the NOSE cover. Will that make a difference? It seems to be a protection function.

I like the idea of having a separate starter solenoid and connections on the back, and stock parts.

The Powermaster 3803 has a 3/4" offset

Only concern is the clocking position. The stock starters have a fixed position and I hope it clears the 4" rails and the 8 qt Avid oil pan.

the O'Reilly's 95' Mustang SVO starter was $95 (plus $25 core - and I don't have a core) and a Ford Racing starter was $295!

[bobcowan]

The primary function of the nose cover is to provide support for the front of the shaft. Otherwise, it's just sort of hanging out there.

The stock starter places the solenoid high up, at pretty close to the 12 o'clock position. Well out of the way of the pan and frame rails.

I'm not sure about that offset, though. I never measured mine, so I don't know if that's what it's supposed to be. Maybe yours is like that for a larger flywheel and clutch???? If so, you're kinda hosed, and you have to spend $300 for a starter.

Like you, I like the idea of a separate solenoid mounted to the firewall, next to the battery. I know it shouldn't, but the idea of that large live cable snaking it's way down under the headers makes me uncomfortable. So I also have a separate solenoid, just like an old Mustang. Running two solenoids is probably overkill; but it makes me feel better.

When my high torque mini starter died after 12 years, I used it for a return core. I had no use for it, so I sold it to Autozone for $25.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by SF_SN888KE

I'll call Powermaster on Monday, but the shaft turns BOTH directions. I think the bendix(?) is busted.

My Powermaster does not have the NOSE cover on the front of the starter. Looks like the stock Mustang (others including Ford Racing) have the NOSE cover. Will that make a difference? It seems to be a protection function.

I like the idea of having a separate starter solenoid and connections on the back, and stock parts.

The Powermaster 3803 has a 3/4" offset

Only concern is the clocking position. The stock starters have a fixed position and I hope it clears the 4" rails and the 8 qt Avid oil pan.

the O'Reilly's 95' Mustang SVO starter was $95 (plus $25 core - and I don't have a core) and a Ford Racing starter was $295!

You can most likely pick up a junk starter at a junkyard for 5 bucks and use it for a core.....
BTW: The one I got from O'Rielly's is for an early 90's Ford T-bird with a 302 and a standard transmission.......it is the same starter some sell as a Ford Racing starter for 295.00!!!!!!

David