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06-22-2003, 04:14 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: California,
Posts: 2
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Not Ranked
Are the SVO and Dart 351w blocks worth the money?
I'm interested in building a stroked 351w for a Cobra Replica. The word on the stree is that the junk yard blocks are only good for a .030 over bore, aside from that the pre 75 blocks are usually harder to find in a standard bore size. The Dart Block looks like a winner but for 2 grand you could take the 69 to 75 351w, take it to .030 over, get a new forged crank, H beam rods, Forged pistions and a Main Girdle for the price of just a Dart Block. My Goals are to have a 500hp stroker that I can run on pump gas.
Any help would be appreciated.
thanks Shawn.  |
06-22-2003, 07:03 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: MARKSVILLE,LA.,,
Posts: 3,235
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Not Ranked
Shawn;
I can not remember the magazine or month,one of the monthly Mustang mags though,they took a Ford crate 392 stroker and did a bunch of dyno pulls on it. They got around 450 with it as it comes from Ford,then they put a set of AFR heads on it and made a few minor changes and got a tad over 500 hp,around 510 or so if I remember right,all on premium pump gas....
A used or "seasoned" block as some engine builders call them are fine for street and some racing,if you are building a strictly race car I would go with an SVO or Dart block.... Some enigne builders actually prefer used blocks to new blocks as they have been heat cycled many many times and the block has "settled".
If you are looking for a 500 hp smallblock stroker,then I think the 392 strocker with the AFR heads are any top shelf aluminum heads are the ticket for 500 hp and this can be done all on pump gas....
David
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DAVID GAGNARD
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06-23-2003, 08:25 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: so cal,
Cal
Cobra Make, Engine: I used to fix them for a living
Posts: 2,563
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Not Ranked
500 hp will live all day long in a factory production block, use the money on good fasteners and heads.
__________________
In a fit of 16 year old genius, I looked down through the carb while cranking it to see if fuel was flowing, and it was. Flowing straight up in a vapor cloud, around my head, on fire.
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06-23-2003, 08:55 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: California,
Posts: 2
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Not Ranked
That Summit racing engine is in the ball park of what I'm looking for. I've had several people recommend a simular setup. I actually had a 408ci stroker in mind ( 4.030x 4.00) . I sort of thought the Dart block and the SVO are over priced. What do you
guys think of a forged steel crank and H beam rods vs a cast crank and more affordable rods?
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06-24-2003, 10:57 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: MARKSVILLE,LA.,,
Posts: 3,235
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Not Ranked
Shawn;
Kinda depends on what you plan to do with the motor and how hard you are going to run it.... I'm running a 350hp 351-W with stock type flat top pistons (4 valve reliefs),stock rod (polished,balanced,ARP rod bolts,resized big ends),and a stock cast crank,I turn my motor no more than 6000rpms and most of the time no more than 5500rpms. Have about 18,000 miles on it now with no problems. Go to the drag strip 4 or 5 times a year with it and just starting to do some open track stuff....
If it is a strictly street motor turning in the 5500rpm range,cast crank and stock rods should hold up just fine,if you plan to do a lot of racing and turn more rpms,I'd use a block from 69 to 74 and put the extra money in a forged crank as well as forged pistons and some after market good rods....
I also prefer the 392 stroker because you can use the stock 351-W rods and 302 pistons. Both are easy to come by and not very expensive if you need to change just one piston or rod.... Some other strokers use custom rods and pistons and just one or two may be hard to find rather than having to buy a complete set for just one or two parts...
This is just my opinion and there may be some others that good give you advise on their motors.
David
__________________
DAVID GAGNARD
Last edited by DAVID GAGNARD; 06-24-2003 at 11:00 AM..
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06-25-2003, 12:20 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: so cal,
Cal
Cobra Make, Engine: I used to fix them for a living
Posts: 2,563
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Not Ranked
Spend your engine money on the parts that move: pistons, rods, crank. You need ARP fasteners. Your valvetrain needs to be setup to work right if you want to go more than 6000 rpm. Alignhone the mains on the block too.
__________________
In a fit of 16 year old genius, I looked down through the carb while cranking it to see if fuel was flowing, and it was. Flowing straight up in a vapor cloud, around my head, on fire.
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06-25-2003, 04:55 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Washington DC Metro (Virginia),
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters, Tweaked 351W, T-5Z, CRII Tech Support Team.
Posts: 1,895
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Not Ranked
Listen to guys like Mr. Fixit and others who've been there, especially if this is your first engine. It's all too easy to overbuild your engine with race parts, when all you're really after is a warm street motor.
The 393 stroker with cast crank, hypereutectic pistons, and decent AFR/Ede/TFS heads. Keep your compression at or under 10:1, and it will run on 92/93 octane pump gas all day. The aftermarket rods are a good idea, but the stock ones are decent forgings, and with a little prep work, should last forever.
Even with a hydraulic roller cam, you're limited to about 6200 RPM anyway.
DO use ARP fasteners for mains, rods, heads.
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