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07-29-2003, 10:43 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Augusta,
GA
Cobra Make, Engine: Factory5, 5.0L
Posts: 18
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Not Ranked
Camzilla
I'm considering using the FMS Camzilla cam (Z303) when rebuilding my 5.0L. I understand that piston modifications are needed to provide the proper valve clearance. Does anyone have the dimensions needed for the modifications?
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07-29-2003, 07:53 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Burbank,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadster 427, 446 cu in Iron Eagle stroker, Trick Flow "R" heads, Comp roller, Edelbrock Thunder 800 cfm, Eaton posi, Richmond 3.27, Tremec TKO 600
Posts: 201
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Not Ranked
I think that cam might be a bad choice for a street car. With 290 degrees of duration and a .552 lift it's not going to produce much vacuum at idle and power brakes will be sluggish..if at all present.
What you need to do as far as flycutting your pistons is entirely up to what other components you have in your engine...heads, valve arrangement, deck height, cam timing....all affect valve to piston clearance. Until you figure out everything else you'll have you won't know...
Last edited by fxbill; 07-29-2003 at 10:51 PM..
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07-30-2003, 10:54 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Augusta,
GA
Cobra Make, Engine: Factory5, 5.0L
Posts: 18
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Not Ranked
Thanks for the reply.
I had planned to use stock valves and heads. Also, I will not have power brakes so the vacuum should not be a problem. Any other hints?
Thanks.
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07-30-2003, 11:52 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Northridge,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Arntz Cobra
Posts: 1,838
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Not Ranked
I used a solid lifter cam with similar specs to those when I built my second engine. It was hard to get off the line because of the tall rear end (3.31) and first gear (2.21). It would not cruise at low RPM either, very jerky. I bought a Tremec transmission to get a lower first gear (3.27) and this helped off the line, but the power band of the engine was so narrow (5000 to 6500) that the wide spacing of the Tremec's gears would drop me out of the power band between each shift and it was still jerky. I had a choice to make. A close ratio six speed trans for $3,000 or a milder cam for $50 (used Edlebrock RPM hydralic) with Rhodes lifters. Guess which way I went?
Paul
__________________
"It doesn't have anything on it that doesn't make it go faster."
Last edited by RallySnake; 07-30-2003 at 11:59 AM..
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07-30-2003, 12:45 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: so cal,
Cal
Cobra Make, Engine: I used to fix them for a living
Posts: 2,563
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Not Ranked
Always go with the cam one smaller than the one you think you need, you will be happier and faster.
__________________
In a fit of 16 year old genius, I looked down through the carb while cranking it to see if fuel was flowing, and it was. Flowing straight up in a vapor cloud, around my head, on fire.
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07-30-2003, 01:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Right in the middle of the beautiful Texas Hill Country - Boerne, Texas,
Posts: 681
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Not Ranked
__________________
"They're lining up on both sides of the ocean..
and nobody's willing to compromise
in the search for the smoking gun..."
"Charlie Don't Surf!"
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07-30-2003, 01:42 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Burbank,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadster 427, 446 cu in Iron Eagle stroker, Trick Flow "R" heads, Comp roller, Edelbrock Thunder 800 cfm, Eaton posi, Richmond 3.27, Tremec TKO 600
Posts: 201
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Not Ranked
I have an extra Competition Cams roller cam for sale if you're interested. It's .530 lift with 1.7 rockers and .500 lift with 1.6
Duration is 285 intake 291 duration and the lobe centers have been set to give it some low end and good vacuum while still letting it have a nasty sounding idle..and trust me...it has a NASTY idle!. It pulls like all getout from 2500-7000+. It was a custom grind for me from Comp to fit what my Cobra needed. Let me know if you'd be interested...it's a proven grind ( to me anyway) and made 529 flywheel hp in my motor.  |
07-30-2003, 04:02 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: so cal,
Cal
Cobra Make, Engine: I used to fix them for a living
Posts: 2,563
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Not Ranked
The cam is the final piece in the motor's combo, determined by the rest of the components. With stock heads, unmodified, a big duration race cam will begin to make it's power after the rest of your motor is out of it's operating RPM. What works in a completely different combo will not work the same in yours. It took my four different cam grinds in my first hot rod to realize I had stock heads, low compression (9.5:1), and a short block that wouldn't routinely handle 7200 RPM without breaking; before I listened to my machinest and got "that tiny cam" he recomended and had a faster car that was more fun to drive. I learned the hard way, had I listened to my machinist....well I still might think bigger is better.
__________________
In a fit of 16 year old genius, I looked down through the carb while cranking it to see if fuel was flowing, and it was. Flowing straight up in a vapor cloud, around my head, on fire.
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