Your ideal 351 build??

[Rebel1]

BERNIE!....shhhhhh

[750hp]

Stroke it......
Injection always satisfies....
Get blown.....

Result = 800+hp on pump gas with no loss in driveability or reliability.

Top speed in an aero coupe would be an eye-opener

[BMK]

Hey Craig



Sounds like a bit of coaching and encouragement there.



The little 351 windsor I have, has 6" C + A rods and comes in at 377. I have been surprised just how much HP and torque the motor has. Crow cam, roller rockers, Dart steel heads, Victor Jnr. Ice ignition and an all over balance.



I will dyno it in the next week at McDonald's Racing where I built the car. Have done just on 5600 k's so far.



In Gel coat and loving it. Gets painted in April at Doug Pearce's.



Will be interesting to see what comes up.

Cheers

Bernie

Bernie Knight
Mt. Gambier South Australia



Home of "Weekend at Bernie's #2" - March 13th and 14th

[Venom S]

Here is what I would build:

Dart iron block with 4-bolt mains
Steel crank and H-beam rods - stroked to 392 ci
Forged pistons - 10.5:1 compression
Full floating pins
Custom grind hydraulic roller cam - .625/.630 lift, 245/255 deg dur @ .050
Twisted Wedge "R" series heads - ported and polished
Ferrrea SSTL swirl polished valves
Roller rockers
TWM or Wayne Presley's stack injection system
CSI electric water pump
Morroso 8-qt road race pan
Distributorless ignittion system
ARP fasteners

Bill

[Rebel1]

Bernie... I have heard that the 377 ci stroker is the preferred size for production 351 ( late series ) windsor blocks. Also makes for some very nice bottom end geometry.

The later blocks are a little lighter (hense not as strong) in the webbing as the earlier blocks and there is some thought maybe too light for the popular 393 stroker route.

I have a 1989 windsor 351 block ( late series ) and have been trying to ascertain if this block will be reliable when stroked to 392 for street work. Seems in the US that they all use the earlier blocks stroked to 393.

If 392 is too much then I also will stroke to 377ci. I also have a pair of heads same as what you have so I'll be very interested to see what your motor dynos at.

[750hp]

Les - if you're going for the traditional crank stroke to get the cubes you're talking about, I wouldn't be concerned about the difference.
3.75" stroke for 377 cubes
3.85" stroke for 393 cubes

The 3.85" stroker package is cheaper, because you use standard spec 302 pistons. I'd personally choose the 3.7 or 3.75" crank, but I believe your block will easily handle any stroke up to 4.0" without any probs at all...

[Jack21]

In the U.S., the '68 - '74 blocks are alleged to be slightly beefier than the '75 and newer. For bottom end strength, It's more critical to use the correct fasteners to keep it buttoned up.

My 351W block is a '79, but all the critical hardware is ARP, with studs, rather than bolts on the main caps. A 393 stroker mostly street is not going to break the bottom end.

In the U.S., the main reason earlier blocks are used is for emission control requirements based on the year the car is registered as. In many States, the year that the car is registered as is based on the year of manufacture of the engine (based on the ID of the block). "Engines", in cars over 25 years old are generally emissions exempt. Other registration options such as Classic, or Antique is available. Some guys will buy an old Galaxie, the entire rusty old car, just for the right year engine in it. Yank the motor, and junk the rest of the car, just for a (more-or-less) hassle free registration process at DMV. There is no hassle free titling process at DMV for a freshly completed Cobra, each State has different requirements, so the builder must know exactly what the requirements for parts AND documentation are before spending a dime on kit, or parts. Ask me how I know. And it may not be any easier for you Aussies, Brits, or Canadians.

So, in the U.S., if an '87 engine (block) is used, and there is no circumventing rule in your particular State that allows "Specially Constructed Vehicles", or year of the vehicle registration to be the year of it's original replicated manufacture instead of the year of the engine currently installed in it to be used. Then be prepared to install catalytic converters in your sidepipes, and pass HC, and NoX (and a variety of other oddball issues) requirements for the '87 (or whatever year) car you took the motor out of.

[Rebel1]

Thanks Craig...Yep, I'm going the traditional crank/rods/piston route so really the cost between the various kits is minor...My concern was really with the block being a late model block. This block, by the way, has never been in a vehicle....still covered with that greasy waxy crap that ford puts on new blocks. Standard bore, standard hone marks etc.....seems silly not to use it.

Why would you go for the 3.75 crank in preferance to the 3.85 cranks.

Thanks again mate...appreciate the advice

[750hp]

Les, the 3.75" (or even 3.7") cranks offer a greater range of rods and pistons. The 3.85 crank was designed as the budget stroker combo, using the standard 5.955 rods - 2.311 journal widths, and "less than perfect design" 302 pistons.

If you go with the 3.75 crank, you can run a 6" or longer rod, 2.1" journals, nice lightweight stroker pistons etc.

You won't hurt the motor - regardless of crank / rods / pistons / block. Any aftermarket parts will live a long and happy life in your Cobra.

[Rebel1]

Thanks Craig....exactly my thinking.

Remember originally I was going the 347 route....then I got to thinking why not use the 351 block...The 351 gotta do it heaps easier than a stressed 347...then..why not stroke the 351...sheezz, where does it stop?

I like long rods....or at least " nice" stroke rod ratios...I also have the thought that whatever torque the thing develops, it would be more than enough for a lightweight cobra.

That leaves the top end performance, so If done right....I should end up with a nice balance between a torque monstor and a nice revvy top end.

It's not like i'm gonna go lay black stripes down the middle of a mates road.......leave that to some-one else I know

Thanks heaps Craig

[750hp]

His son made me do it..... To be honest, the standard stroke 351W that was in my RMC (Frank's car that Cragar built the motor for), was fantastic. It ran high 11 / low 12 sec 1/4 mile times @ 119mph. That was a standard crank, standard rods 351W. It revved to 7000+rpm. It sounded FANTASTIC, and it pulled cleanly to those rpm, but I figured that if I maintained a 6K redline, it'd live for ever.

Well, it did until the roller fell off the lifter and destroyed the block, cam, lifters, pushrods etc.....

[Rebel1]

Well then.. a slightly larger cubic capacity, longer rods, together with a more sane driver would make for a pretty reliable set up heh?


Thanks Craig....really do appreciate the advice

Tell ya wot ..I can still see that thing of yours burning its way up petes road....The sound was bootiful