351w Rebuild Ideas?

[wickedmach1]

I am thinking about not stroking my '69 351w and going with the standard 3.50" stroke. I listed below the parts I plan to use. Do you guys see any areas for improvement or overkill? I decided maybe to stay with the standard stroke due to $$$ for a new crank. Will I be sorry for not stroking? What will I lose? I know torque is one thing. What about HP at lower RPM's? My goal is about 400 - 425 HP. Will I have to wind up to 6000 RPM to make this HP? I want a good street motor. I want the low-end torque and HP. hat about oil pumps? I have heard to use both high and standard volume pumps. Please help because this is my first engine rebuild. Thanks.

'69 351w block bored .030 over
stock stroked crankshaft (3.50 inches)
AFR 185 Cylinder Heads (61cc)
Speed Pro Forged .030 pistons 9.5:1 compression
5140 forged Steel I-Beam Rods
Edelbrock Performer RPM (Ports matched to heads)
Street Demon 750 (mechanical secondaries)
140 gph Electric Fuel Pump
Melling standard volume oil pump
1 5/8 Hedman Ceramic coated shorty headers
Electric Fan
March under-drive pulley set (Conversion to Serpentine)
MSD Pro Billet Distributor
CompCams camshaft 35-000-8RF (roller retrofit)
Duration @ .050" = 224/232
Valve Lift w/ 1.6 Rocker = .555/.565
Lobe Sep. Angle = 110

[Tony Radford]

Ought to get you 400+ HP. One of the desktop dyno guys could tell you for sure. I like strokers myself, but that's just me.

[Jim Downard]

Hey Wicked,
I've got a 393 stroker and I'm using stock rods. Could save yourself a few bucks not spurging for high dollar rods if you don't need them, just be sure to use good rod and main bolts. Also, I'm running the cast iron Rousch 200 heads. They may not be as pretty as the aluminums, but in my mind cast iron is more robust and/or bulletproof. Besides, I don't need the 25-50 lbs weight savings. A 750 cfm carb seems a little high for a 351. I'm running a 700 cfm vac sec. edelbrock and am thinking of going back to a 600. The off idle tunability is a little touchy on the bigger carbs, and unless your going to run the motor like a screamer, you may not need more than 600 cfm. Remember, an engine is only an air pump. Calculate how many cfm your motor will pump every minute, then determine what carb you may need.
This info us just me thinking out loud, and as they say, opinions vary.
Jim Downard

[Roscoe]

Carb is too big....go with the 650.

Roscoe

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Wicked;


If you plan to stay at or below 6000 rpms,stock rods will be fine,I polished and balanced my rods and had them resized and had ARP rods bolts installed,21,000 miles later and plenty of 5500 to 6000 rpm shifts and it's still all together.....With the heads and cam you are talking about using I think you would easily get between 400 and 425 hp (very possibly more)and have a streetable engine.... I'd also go with no bigger than a 650 double pumper.....I have tried no less than five carbs on my 351-W,350 hp engine and have found the best for my combo is the 15 year old Holley 600 double pumper on it now,the worst was a 750 Da Vinci stage 2 carb (way too much carb for the motor).....Holley's formula rpm x cu in divided by 3456 would equate to a 621 cfm carb for your motor with a .030 bore and using 6000 rpms as max,assuming it is 100 % effeciant,which it will not be,so a 650 should be just right....All your other parts listed are top notch parts and should give you a very dependable,powerful engine....

David

[Mike C.]

test

[auto10x]

Get rid of the high volume oil pump, you don't need it.
auto10x
Bill

[69 Mach I]

Before you settle on that cam and carb, you should fist flow the heads and then decide on the right components. I am rebuilding a 351W right now. I went with Windsor 200 Alum. heads that are mated to Hedman long tubes. My shop had them ported and flowed and then, based on the results, had a custom grind cam done up and mated a holley 650 double pumper with mechanical secondaries. I went with forged eagle rods and forged pistons. Since 98 octane is the standard for high octane gas, I opted for a 11:1 compression ratio. You should very easily get 400 bhp out of your set up.

[RedBarchetta]

Originally posted by Jim Downard


.....just be sure to use good rod and main bolts.

That's the best advice so far. Put your money into the hardware components and it will stay together longer. That and the bearings. Meticulous assembly (read "cleanliness") will also go a long way for engine longevity. So long as all the clearances and torque specs are within tolerance....it's sticking to the fundamentals that works.

[bluoval]

Go to chiheads.com there is build on a 351w that makes 515hp on pump gas. It doesn't have any exotic parts in this engine and it makes 470ftlbs. of torque.

[Ron61]

Mach1,

Can you still buy 98 octane at the pumps where you live? Man I wish we could get something over the overrated 92 they sell out here. You can use this stuff to put out fires. I run 11:1 compression in two of my cars and have to buy racing gas to mix just for driving. And even my little 65 Comet with the stock 289 gets lousy mileage with our gas. But if I go out of state and buy gas, it will average about 3 to 5 miles more per gallon.

Ron

[Dwight]

COACH MIKE BOUGHT ALL THE PARTS FOR A 408 STROKER AND HAD A LOCAL SHOP BUILT THE MOTOR. THE COMPRESSION RATIO IS 10:1. SO THE PARTS LIST AND BENNET RACING SAYS. BUT THE ENGINE HAS DETONATION PROBLEM. ADD OCTANE BOOSTER HELP SOME. WE THINK THE COMPRESSION IS TO HIGH FOR THE GAS AT THE PUMPS. NEW PISTONS???? LOWER COMPRESSION???
FOR THE STREET, STAY WITH 9 TO 1. TIRES WILL NOT HOOK UP ANYWAY. 400 HP OR 450 HP!!!!! REMEMBER STREET CAR

[69 Mach I]

Originally posted by Ron61


Mach1,

Can you still buy 98 octane at the pumps where you live?

Ron

I have to correct myself. Octane in Europe is measured using the RON (Research Octane Number) while the US uses the PON (Pump Octane Number). 98 RON is the same as 94 PON. Once I found this out, I had to contact my shop before it purchased the pistons to tell the guys there I wanted to bring the compression down to 10:1 just to be on the safe side.