1st Timer needs direction! Please help!

[bkniep]

I am shopping for a Superformance Cobra and have a ton of questions. If these have been answered before, please direct me to the appropriate thread. Thanks in advance.

I have already read the threads praising the guys at Dynamic motorsports and I think I will end up there. My questions mostly center around engine choice at this point. I am posting this here because I am interested in handling and all around pkg rather than pure power (I love my current Honda S2000 but miss the torque of my old Camaros) and I would guess that the lighter weight small block makes a better balanced car.

1) Has anyone tried the new "cammer" crate motor from Ford in a Cobra yet? It seems like a pretty interesting combination. I have read about the engine but do not know if it is available yet. I am not much of a mechanic and like the idea of an 4 valve DOHC pkg. (sacrilege?)

2) If I go the more traditional route, what are some good choices for engine builders? I am hoping to do a 327 or 351 that can reliably put out 400+ HP and still be thoroughly streetable (no overheating, rough idle etc.)

Any and all suggestions will be much appreciated.
Bill

[ENTDOC]

327-no way ;351 is a good if not boring choice(consider a stroked 351;396,407 ect) The cammer may be a tight fit .I am sure it is a screamer motor but I would stick with a carbed engine.Also consider a used Superperformance,there are some great deals out there. chuck

[MidOHasp]

Bill...

1) By "cammer" are you speaking of the 4.6/5.4 Modular V8 platform? If so, it will never fit unless you plan on doing many thousands of dollars worth of custom work to the SPF. The modular platform, while a pretty sweet setup, is wider than an FE. Somewhere, there is a beautiful front and side profile cad drawing of a 351W, FE (maybe it was a 429/460), and a modular. Amazing how fat the Mod motor is.

2) If you go the traditional route and around that 400HP number, look at the Ford Racing Crate 351W. It makes 385HP and is quite streetable. Very reliable motor, nothing particularly sexy or special about it. There are many reliable builders out there who can easily make you a 425HP 351W. A REAL easy way to get to 425 and keep it streetable is to stroke it (but not like Clarence Carter). There's nothing particularly radical about my 408W and it makes 508 horsepower and over 540 lb-ft. TQ. It has a very noticeable lumpy idle, but will idle at 400 RPM if you want it to (I don't). It's streetable, but some people are afraid of it. It's LOUD.

You're right - you will have a great experience with the folks at Dynamic. Dean and Ron Rosen are great people. Mark (service) is the most polite man you'll ever meet, and I think he has an amphetamine drip in his arm because he is always running around like crazy trying to get everyone their stuff.

The smallblock package provides basically 50/50 weight distribution in the SPF car. An aluminum big block (not sure what your budget is) would do the same and is very very cool.

Enjoy your journey. Pick a cool color. And remember... you may think now that you don't want a rough idle, you want ultimate streetability, etc... but there is a good possibility you will want to revise that later. Strike a good mix between performance and reliability. A 400+ HP Windsor will do that if someone reputable builds it. A 300 HP Windsor will be boring. a 600 HP Windsor won't be quite as reliable or streetable.

Hope this helps. Feel free to ask more questions, that is what we are all here for. To ask and answer.....

JP

[Excaliber]

Chev block in a new build Cobra? Across the pond or down under OK.

,,,,othewise.

[bkniep]

As far as user friendliness goes. A stroked 351W taken out to 392 would make for a very friendly and reliable 400-425 bhp would it not. Again, I am not looking for absolute performance, but something I could use for a road trip etc.
What engine builders would the board suggest. I have been looking at Roush, Ford, and Dynatek so far but would love further suggestions.
What is the weight penalty for the larger displacement. It should be minimal with the same block, correct?
Thanks for all your help.
I'm leaning towards Titanium.
Bill

[Goober]

bkniep,
I have had big blocks and small blocks. I currently have a SPF with 392 / 440HP. Roller Cam setup, MSD electrics. This is a very streetable engine and requires no maintenence except changing the oil. Believe me, it sends the SPF down the road fast enough. If your racing (serious) maybe then move up to more HP. But for street, this is a good engine. Idles great, doesn't load up and has no overheating problems.
One of the guys in the forum named Hal has a SPF daily driver and I think he has over 70,000 miles with no problems. Not bad for a crate motor.
Good luck in purchasing a SPF, new or used it will be sweet
This engine will get you in the high 11's with street tires once you learn how to launch it.
Just my .02
Mark

[bkniep]

Is it best to go with a local builder. (makes me nervous since I wouldn't know where to go) Or should I think about an engine from an established company?
B

[trularin]

Had a guy demand orTell me to put a starter in his car, so I did it.

After the car was let off the lift, the guy b!#$hed at me that the car wouldn't start. I waited until he ask why and told him it wasn't the starter, but the battery cable. Then he got mad and asked why I put the starter in. I said, "Because you told me to."

Moral is, if you are going to dictate engine components, you should know what you want.

I suggest you find a good local engine builder and talk to him. If you don't get that warm fuzzy feeling, the next place to try is the several club supporting shops we have. Ask them what they can do and for how much.

Whatever you do, don't venture into the cheby arena. I agree with Ernie.

If you have your mind made-up on who's the maker of your parts, you are far ahead of several people visiting this great site.

My last little bit of advice goes to, "know thy self and to thy self be true." It would be good if you know what you can and can not do and if you are truthful with yourself, you will have a great amount of fun.

Just my $0.02

[Clois Harlan]

Bill,

What is your drive train budget. If you go with a Tremic or TKO you can spend between $1200 and over $2000 for your tranny and then another $200 for a good after market shifter. If you are going with the 351W consider either 3.50:1 or 3.73:1 rear gears. You will probably not be real happy with anything higher given the driving style you eluded to. A good crate engine will vary in price depending on your options and the shop you choose. A 351 stroked to 392 or 408 is very responsive and since you probably won't be doing much track time they should last a very long time.

I am a firm believer in using a shop that you trust. It is easy to bolt some parts together but if the shop doesn't know the little ins and outs of the engine you may not get what you are paying for.

By the way have you considered the guys at Premier in Kansas City for your kit? They build a very nice kit.

Clois

[bkniep]

Any goo dbuilders in St. Louis. I know there is a hot rod specialty shop on Forest Park Ave. in the city. Are they known to people in the club?
If no one in StL is experienced with this little world I hope to enter, what shops in nearby cities would be the best?
Bill

[Lowell W]

Bill,

Seems that you've already decided on SPF. I think you'll find it to be a well-made car, strong enough to handle virtually any engine combination you want to install, with good creature comforts and amenities (relative to a skateboard or most other Cobras, anyway), with very good dealer support and tech help available. Seriously, my car is comfortable enough for me to drive for two hours or longer at a time and, with the top up, is cosy inside down into the 30's and plenty roomy and I'm 6'6" tall. One of the great things about SPF, and why they appeal to such a wide range of owners, is that any Ford V-8 is "right" in a SPF.

Some guys install FE motors and, if you want the coolest looking, coolest sounding motor, the FE wins, hands down. It's also the most expensive way to go.

If you want the absolute rompin'est, stompin'est, drag racin'est, gas guzzlin'est, most intimidating, window-rattling, alarm-setting-off, dog- and old lady-scaring, Corvette- and Viper-thrashing Hell-child in the parking lot, the big block is the way to go, but you probably won't want to take many trips in it.

If you want a scary fast, fun to drive, chick-magnetic, daily driveable sports car that will be fun on trips, get 12-15 mpg on pump gas and not make you go completely deaf or pi$$ off the neighbors too badly (assuming you live in a neighborhood-I don't ), talk to one of the engine builders who advertise here on CC about a Windsor-based motor in the 400-500 HP range. I agree with Trularin: Don't try to tell the guy how to build your motor but do tell him what you want to do with it. If you want, or don't mind a lumpy idle, tell him. If you want to be able to idle through town without going "Rumpity Rumpity", tell him that. If you're concerned about gas quality, discuss lowering the compression a bit. If you want to just go fast and are willing to put up with a little inconvenience, discuss that with him, too. Look at the Ford crate motor as a kind of benchmark. It's relatively cheap, reliable and powerful, but you can improve upon it in all dimensions if you want to spend the money. If you don't want to spend more money, you can still build a very fast, very enjoyable car with a 385 HP Windsor.

Two further crumbs of humble advice:

1) Look at the used cars. There are a LOT of nice cars out there at reasonable prices, Eric Brown's (Great Asp) being one, but there are many others on Club Cobra and Cobra Country.

2) Plan to attend DVSF 4 if possible. It's only a month away and not too far from where you live. Even if you have your mind made up, a trip to "The Fling" may either convince you you're heading in the right direction or possibly save you from making a mistake.

Good luck,

Lowell

[Bruce Robles]

I'd try a Ford crate, a Rousch crate, or call Kieth Craft in Ark. or Bill at Southern Auto in Atlanta, or the Engine Factory, or George Anderson at Gessford Machine Shop in Nebraska.
Bill or George will talk your leg off and steer you in the right direction while their doing it.
Bill at Southern has a base 427 FE complete for $14,000.00 or $15,000.00. He can also supply a Bellhousing, Flywheel, Clutch, Slave Cylinder for the Clutch, throwout bearing, Transmission and linkage, starter etc. shipped to your door.
He does small blocks too.
George Anderson will do the same.

[slithering]

Bill,

I am building a 427 s/o with a block I bought from Keith Craft. He has some great ideas, a lot of experience, and is very easy to work with. He has anything you would want in an engine. I have had an excellent experience with George Anderson of Gessford Machine, another great guy with a wealth of knowledge and experience. These are two of the best anywhere!

Chris

[bkniep]

What is DVSF?
Where is it and when?
Thanks
Bill

BTW. Thanks to everyone for the advice. I am hoping to find a builder in St. Louis or within a couple of hours drive, but the suggestions are great.
B

[clayfoushee]

Double Venom Spring Fling.

300 or so Cobras and great fun. Everything you need to know is in this section of CC

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/foru...?s=&forumid=95