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09-12-2004, 08:39 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Eppstein, Germany,
He
Cobra Make, Engine: Actual car: AC Autokraft MK IV with Keith Craft 331. Gone: Home built Crendon, original style twin tube frame, powder coated, stainless sidepipes. FE 433
Posts: 219
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Not Ranked
Dear all,
last call!
I'm a bit thick about fiddling with that modified HV oil pump. I'll kill that thing !!!!!!!!
What is your oil presure with:
A: High volume pump
B: High pressure pump
C: Standart pump
I need a pump able to bring 70 PSI above 3000 while running an oil cooler and restrictors.
Whats your recommandation?
Thanks to all,
Uwe
__________________
Everything should be as simple as possible - but not simpler !!
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09-13-2004, 03:24 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Linkenheim,
BW
Cobra Make, Engine: Sorry "just" a 68 Shelby GT500
Posts: 90
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Not Ranked
Hallo Uwe,
Greetings from Germany too !
One other detail to check is to make sure the distributor drive gear is not bottoming out on the block.
Clevelands "like" a little higher oil pressure than Chevys - but not 100 psi +.
My FE in the Shelby has a startup pressure of 100+ when cold but that will go down to abot 80 psi hot above 2500 RPM.
Its been that way for years and at least 10 000 kms - I have had zero problems with the drive gear.
There is a Cleveland spezialist in Neustadt/W - I could send you his phone or email if you wish.
__________________
Mike
68 GT 500
(Germany)
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09-13-2004, 05:15 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Eppstein, Germany,
He
Cobra Make, Engine: Actual car: AC Autokraft MK IV with Keith Craft 331. Gone: Home built Crendon, original style twin tube frame, powder coated, stainless sidepipes. FE 433
Posts: 219
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Not Ranked
Mike,
thanks.
The distributor and that special length from about 4" was checked before without the timincover.
Everything is O.K. the distibutor gear is not binding on the bottom end!!!
Is it Redline Performance in Neustadt??
Cheers,
Uwe
lef
__________________
Everything should be as simple as possible - but not simpler !!
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09-13-2004, 11:04 AM
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Member of the north
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Join Date: May 2003
Cobra Make, Engine: A Cobra
Posts: 11,207
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Not Ranked
Uwe, I have a 351 Cleveland and run about 30 - 40 PSI at Idle and over 80 PSI at 3000 + . My engine build tolerances are tight and I used .125 inch restrictors. I also ran a SS bypass from the front of the engine to the rear. This line runs from the port next to the oil filter connection back to the rear oil sender port.
I have a Melings HVHP pump with a billet drive. My Dist gear is the stanard one on a Mallory Unilite unit.
When running a stanard pump, I saw many Clevelands drop to 25 PSI, a bit to scarry for me. That is why I opted for the HVHP.
You can, just as a test, put a crank-drive in the dist. hole and run the pump up. It should be a resistance to get 20 to 30 PSI, but you can try.
Just my $0.02
__________________
I'm a writer, feed the artist and buy a book.
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09-13-2004, 12:02 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Eppstein, Germany,
He
Cobra Make, Engine: Actual car: AC Autokraft MK IV with Keith Craft 331. Gone: Home built Crendon, original style twin tube frame, powder coated, stainless sidepipes. FE 433
Posts: 219
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Not Ranked
O.K
The pressure relief valve is still adjustable with mounted pump.
Tomorrow I'm going to (last time!!) set up the pump, this time mounted to the engine, to 80 PSI max cold above 3000.
I'll let you know.
Has anybody any idea where to get a MSD billet pro distributor not too expensive??
Jegs may be??
I dont like these Mallory series 25 and 35 i'm using because you can't check vertical end play if the distributor is once installed.
What you feel is just the vertical play of the advance mechanism sitting with some vertical movement about 8/10th of a millimeter on the shaft.
So it's not possible to check vertical shaft play inside the engine what would be the most important thing to avoid binding or running up in the air with the distributor gear.
You have to disassemble the distributor partially to check this.....
Cheers,
Uwe
__________________
Everything should be as simple as possible - but not simpler !!
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09-14-2004, 08:23 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Eppstein, Germany,
He
Cobra Make, Engine: Actual car: AC Autokraft MK IV with Keith Craft 331. Gone: Home built Crendon, original style twin tube frame, powder coated, stainless sidepipes. FE 433
Posts: 219
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Not Ranked
Got it.................
more or less
Oil pressure is now 60 PSI cold at idle. 70 PSI cold above 3000rpm. Its a little bit less and i will go up to 80.
Last question:
What oil do you use? Mine is 5W30 synthetic. Enginebuilders here in Germany and in the U.K. told me to run 20W50 mineral oil because it would "stick" better on the moving parts???
Anybody arround using the same oil as i do in a cleveland?
I need to know this because if not I have to change the oil and checking the pressure again before any further adjustment.
Maybe with that oil the pessure is higher a bit and closer to 80.
But for today its enough we are going to Italy now spending some days with old friends.
Trularin:
What size is the thread beside the mech. fuel pump, is it 1/4"?? I never used that port it's blocked.
I will install the bypass line from front to rear when I'm back from vacation. I know that the rear one is 1/4".
Thanks,
Uwe
__________________
Everything should be as simple as possible - but not simpler !!
Last edited by westcott cobra; 09-14-2004 at 08:30 AM..
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09-14-2004, 08:28 AM
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Renegade Nuns on Wheels
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: columbus,
Oh
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427 roadster with 351C-4B
Posts: 5,129
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Not Ranked
If you look back to my post you will see that I also use 5W-30 synthetic. Works great and you have plenty of pressure!
Rick
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09-14-2004, 08:36 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Eppstein, Germany,
He
Cobra Make, Engine: Actual car: AC Autokraft MK IV with Keith Craft 331. Gone: Home built Crendon, original style twin tube frame, powder coated, stainless sidepipes. FE 433
Posts: 219
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Not Ranked
Thanks Rick,
very fast reply. Octoberfest must have been nice............
Cheers,
Uwe
__________________
Everything should be as simple as possible - but not simpler !!
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09-14-2004, 08:44 AM
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Renegade Nuns on Wheels
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: columbus,
Oh
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427 roadster with 351C-4B
Posts: 5,129
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Not Ranked
The hangover is finally gone!
Rick
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09-14-2004, 09:12 AM
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Member of the north
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Join Date: May 2003
Cobra Make, Engine: A Cobra
Posts: 11,207
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Not Ranked
You might have an oil pressure sending unit there. I think it is a 3/8" US Pipe thread. Really helps with oil distribution within the engine. If it is plugged, remove hte plug, but watchout, oil really flows out.
Oil filter is on the left side of the block. The port is back from that and up just a hair. On the four bolt main blocks I have worked on, it is usually used for the oil pressure sending unit on select cars.
Rick, if you are following this thread; what do/did you connect to the port next to the oil filter connection?
__________________
I'm a writer, feed the artist and buy a book.
Last edited by trularin; 09-14-2004 at 09:14 AM..
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09-14-2004, 09:16 AM
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Member of the north
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Join Date: May 2003
Cobra Make, Engine: A Cobra
Posts: 11,207
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Not Ranked
BTW, I run 15W50 Mobil 1.
__________________
I'm a writer, feed the artist and buy a book.
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10-12-2004, 11:09 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Eppstein, Germany,
He
Cobra Make, Engine: Actual car: AC Autokraft MK IV with Keith Craft 331. Gone: Home built Crendon, original style twin tube frame, powder coated, stainless sidepipes. FE 433
Posts: 219
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Not Ranked
Ohoh,
my last reply is missing here, is it gone??
I installed a hard line between front and rear oil pressure port using aluminium fittings like russel or aeroquip and aluminium tube.
See the new Engine picture in my gallery.
The pump is adjusted to 80 psi warm above idle, everything is fine now.
Thanks for all the support you guys gave to me.
A great forum............
Uwe
__________________
Everything should be as simple as possible - but not simpler !!
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11-10-2004, 07:00 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Kenyon,
MN
Cobra Make, Engine: RCR GT40 #45
Posts: 245
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Not Ranked
With today's quality lubricants and better bearing materials, running oil pressure in excess of 60PSI regardless of RPM / HP / Load - is not only a waste of HP, but will kill far more parts that you can imagine.
We typically set the pressure relief valves on competition engines to limit the pressure to 60-70 (HOT) as long as we maintain 15-20 PSI hot idle pressure. Anything that causes the pressure to run outside these limits means the engine needs to come back apart for inspection. One of the biggest wasters of oil pressure is excessive connecting rod side clearance - the other is lifter oiling that is not restricted when it needs to be.
Smokey Yunick was a genius - His "Rule of Thumb" of 10 PSI for every 1,000 RPM was made back when oil was not anywhere near as pure and stabile as it is today and bearings were made primarily from steel, aluminum and babbit.
Edit - You are lucky you did not blow the can off the oil filter. I had one go at 80 PSI on the dyno once. Wasn't pretty... Nice fire!
__________________
Regards - Randy
RCR40 #45 http://www.GT-Forty.com
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12-04-2004, 12:59 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Eppstein, Germany,
He
Cobra Make, Engine: Actual car: AC Autokraft MK IV with Keith Craft 331. Gone: Home built Crendon, original style twin tube frame, powder coated, stainless sidepipes. FE 433
Posts: 219
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Not Ranked
Randy,
we allways use Moroso Racing Filters and we never had bad experiances like you made unfurtunately with your blown filter can.
Very good US product.
Cheers,
Uwe
__________________
Everything should be as simple as possible - but not simpler !!
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