Best Ford Crate for a 3 times a week driver

[v35b]

I am preparing a Superformance for a drive to work car.. probably about 3k miles per year..in some stop and go and some hiway. Looking for the smoothest match with a Tremac 5. Was thinking of the 351 - 385 hp. Anybody have some experience here that could help me out with this one..

[HI Cobra]

I don't have a Superperformance but I do have a 351W
w/405 hp and a Tremec 3550 and do a bit of driving in a
traffic mix like you described and have had no problems
in 9k miles. I have a toggle switch on my large puller fan
that I only use in stop and go traffic, otherwise the fan is off.
I have a Griffan aluminum radiator, so that helps I'm sure.
I have been stuck in some traffic jams and with the fan have
never gone over 180.

Not sure if this helps but this combo works for me.

[traindriver]

V35b,

I have SP1591 witha 351W, the std. 3.73 rearend and the .68 Tremec 3550. The car is a nice blend of easy in traffic, and cruises effortlessly at 1900 rpm at 60mph. I went with a milder cam 432tq. 451hp. for good lowend pull and for my now in-process Weber IDA upgrade. I originally was looking at the 385hp FMS but went with a custom built motor. Mainly for the warrenty and the extra perfromance. The FMS heads are more restrictive than the top heads out on the market like AFR and Trick Flow. Enjoy the process, I put my own motor in (first time doing anything like that) and enjoyed every minute of it. It took me about 32hrs. from start o finish.

Chuck

[rob frink]

..........

[Jim Kellogg]

Hi, John

I have been driving SPF887 to and from work on a regular basis going on 3 years. Mostly in town driving, avg trip approx 10-15 miles 1 way. I have the Ford Motorsports 351/385 combo with a 650 Holley which works very well.
It runs well on Sunoco premium, starts well cold (elec choke), and after breakin runs fine up to 6k rpm. A good package.

If I were to pick an engine combo again, though, I would go for the 392w/430 at least, or ideally the Roush 427w.

Just my thoughts,
Jim Kellogg SPF887
Elmira, NY

[Pelao]

v35b

I agree with Chuck, go with the custom built engine. There is no warranty from FMS for these engines. I suggest you call Eric Hinderberger at Performance Engineering, Ross OH (513) 738-5001. He has tremendous amount of experience in building and installing engines for SPF's. He can build you the engine you want with different types of cams. Ask him for the mildest cam for street use.
Great guy, great bunch of professionals. They built three engines for us, never signed a paper, never met him in person (hope I will some day), all the deal was agreed on the phone and he delivered what he said he would, right on time. This was particulary important, since I don't live around the block, but in Chile.

Andrés

[v35b]

You guys are great..thanks...for all of the immediate input. Hopefully as I move through the process I will be able to report back and help others. Any other comments would be appreciated.

Thanks again fellas..

Also running cool is a concern, I live in AZ..here it is Sept and I think it is supposed to be 112 today.

[Jack21]

I have a Classic Roadsters, not an SPF, but it is a back and forth to work and cruising car. It has power steering, power brakes, heater/defroster, tonneau cover, and soft top. (If I lived in Phoenix, the car would also have A/C in it as well.)

Ford (to me) is a little like IBM. They're overpriced, behind the times, and always seem to shoot themselves in the foot. (Does IBM - I've Been Misled - even make computers anymore?)

If you're a conservative driver (relatively speaking), go with the 351W. But like the man said, sooner or later, you're going to want more power. So you might as well start with the 393 and resist putting your foot in it (disconnect the secondaries) until you learn how to drive it. (It's unlike any other car you've ever driven, and you have a learning curve to contend with.)

The FMS crate motor has the wrong heads (restricted flow), wrong cam (too hot), and wrong intake (too little bottom end - and it might be too tall to fit under the hood) for a street motor. And the warrantee sucks (none).

If you don't mind no warrantee, you might want to consider the short block. Then install the right heads, cam, and intake. If you do mind no warrantee, check with some of the major engine builders listed on this site, or some of your local shops for a motor done right, for less money, with a warrantee.