289 head help.

[cleandan]

I am rebuilding the 289 for my Sunbeam Tiger..."the Cobra that wasn't". Because the space constraints are so very tight, I am finding it somewhat difficult to locate performance aftermarket heads that are exactly the same outer dimentions as Ford originals. I think the iron Windsor JR heads do fit this bill, but I have been unable to confirm that. Anyway, my goal for the 289 is a pump gas motor that makes good torque (relative I know) does not require massive cooling, and will be happy on the street, with occasional road track blasts.
My question is based on the flow of stock heads. If my 289 is built with a 62-6500 rpm red line, will the Windsor JR heads flow well enough out of the box for my limited small CI motor, or will porting them gain me enough to overcome the cost of porting?
If you are certain about any other heads, please let me know.
My limitations are exhaust port location, and valve cover rail height. I CAN NOT run taller than stock valve covers, and I do not want to make custom headers for exhaust ports that are not in the stock location. I have had MANY people tell me "they think" a million times. I, however, do not want to spend $1500-2000 on a set of heads based on a guesstimate. Thanks for the input and have a great day.

[tpiini]

I won't give you my "I think," but you may want to reconsider your powerband. My 289 spins up and still pulls nicely to 7,500 RPM. The engine builder says it will take 9k, but I've been too chicken to rev it that far. a 289 is a short stroke engine so spinning it up tight won't hurt it like other 4" bore/longer-stroke engines.

I've got Ford GT40 heads on mine, but I "don't think" they're as good as AFR's, or so I'm told. But as far as dimensions, well, they're Fords own.

Tom

[Dan Stryffeler]

What kind of HP/Torque are you looking to make?

My stock heads (with stock valves) make 335HP (not sure right now of the torque, but I believe it was about 350 ft-lbs) at 5200rpm with just a good port job on the intake side. Exhaust ports were left alone.

Over size Chevy valves and a little grinding on the exhaust would make another 20+ I would guess.

If you are going to spin the motor in excess of 5500rpm, would highly recommend larger diameter bolts (ARP) on the rod caps, as this was a weak spot on the 289.

- Dan

[cleandan]

Thanks tiipini and Dan.
Yes, I know the short stroke of the 289 will let it spin, that is one reason I am keeping this motor instead of going the stroker route. Seeing as this is a street motor however, I think a 6500, maybe 6800, rpm redline is sufficient, especially for the build I have in mind. The power I am looking for is in the 300-350HP range with as good of torque as I can produce at that HP level. Another restriction i must contend with is the VERY limited cooling the Tigers have. I think the heater core in my 66 7-LITRE Galaxie has more cooling ability than the Tiger sized radiator. At this time I do not want to deviate very far from stock appearances, or that of available dress up items when the car was new. This keeps my cooling options somewhat limited in size. There are a few alum radiators available, and I may use an oil cooler, but they will end up looking as stock as possible. I also agree with the ARP fasteners. The extra cost of the ARP stuff is so far outweiged by a broken motor possibility if not used, that they are simply part of the build from the word go. I am starting my 289 build research here mostly because I have had little luck elsewhere. If I switched to a 302/351 based engine then all is fine, but the 289 is sorta the forgotten little brother these days. Thanks again for the help.

[Jack21]

Just a few comments.

Have worked on Sunbeam Tigers years ago, but know the tight squeeze the 289 motor is. Car came stock with a 260 2V (same setup as '63 Falcon Sprint) with a whopping 164 HP. The easiest spark plug to change on the engine was the #8 plug through a hole in the firewall behind the clutch pedal. The rest were knuckle busters.

The 260/289/302 engines are the same family, and share the same exterior dimensions. The 351W is a larger engine. It shares some of the dimensions of the 302, and some parts interchange.

A 302 would fit dimensionally, but I'd mock up all the accessories on a stand before installing it. Same deal with swapping heads. Make sure everything bolts up with the right size mounting holes in the right places.

Head wise, I'd look at the GT40, or AR165. You will have to pay close attention to the valve train setup so that everything fits, and works. Roller rockers are out, but Comp makes some improved factory style rockers that will fit under your stock valve covers. If your new heads use guideplates, you'll need hardened pushrods, and carefully check rocker arm geometry. These issues should be dealt with by your head Mfg. If AR, their tech support for this should be quite good (what will I need?). Both intake and exhaust ports are in stock locations so everything should bolt up there. Aluminum dissipates heat better than iron, so you're not adding any heat stress to the cooling system.

To add some torque, consider one of CompCams retrofit hydraulic roller cams.

The radiator by now must need replacement, and a good radiator shop could build you a thicker core. Or go with an aluminum one. Definately use a bigger fan, and your little 289 should cool quite well.

An oil cooler would be a complete waste of money, but a baffled pan and windage tray would be worthwhile. For those kind of revs, use a billet steel flywheel, and SFI balancer.

Original Tigers (if I recall) came with 13" wheels. What size wheels do you have on the car now? This may be the biggest limitation of how much power you can actually use.

Good luck on your restoration. Tigers were fun cars. Damm shame the Mopar 340 wouldn't fit when Chrysler bought out Sunbeam and killed the Tiger.

[cleandan]

Thanks Jack21,
My Tiger is not entirely stock anymore. I have disc brakes on all four corners. I am running 15" wheels with 195-55/R/15 Dunlop Z rated tires. The clutch is a 10.5" McLeod performance unit, and a Scheiffer aluminum flywheel makes the connection along with an NHRA certified scatter shield. The tranny is a wide ratiore top loader. The motor has an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake, 600cfm Holley, Mallory dist and ignition. the motor is a K-Code 289 that has no head work, but has had the internals balanced and lightened, there are also headers and dual 2.25" exhaust, and an Aviad road race oil pan. The cam is a close hyd copy of the solid K code cam. This motor works ok but is starting to show its wear, and simply needs a rebuild. If I have to go throught the whole thing, why not try and bolt on some more power while I am at it?