just back from dyno!!

[ruslow]

Well I went to the chassis dyno today [knew the car was not running up to what it should]Well very dishaeartin news.
First the stelling air cleaner [the only one that fits my set up] cost 41 hp!!
And second I am running a full on MSD system billet dist 6al and hvc coil.Well the first run the motor was cutting out[could not feel it but you sure could see it in the graph] and it was the rev chip.So it was removed and made a world of difference BUT the hp graph looks more like a sine wave than a hp graph and we have come up with the ign being the problem.
NOW the question I put to you guys is what ign do you run and how smooth is the hp graph.I am thinking of trying the jacobs pro street is that a ggod choice?I think it is in the module and not the dist.I feel atleast another 40 hp from fixing that problem.By the way the a/f was flat all the way across at 11.8.Stan

[Dennis Kelley]

MSD ready to run dist., 6AL, and blaster coil. With that combo smooth as silk on the dyno graph. What type of wires are you running? What is an HVC coil? You have quality parts your ignition system should not be a problem. When is the last time you checked the plugs and the connection? Something doesn't sound right.

[ruslow]

new plugs gapped at 3 different clearances.the HVC coil is their performance line of coils.I had a blaster and it was $hit.would not go past 4500.I am running voltage straight off of the battery and same with ground so I can not believe that is the problem either.Stan

[mrmustang]

Stan,

What type of ignition wires are you using????

Bill S.

[Dennis Kelley]

Are all of your parts new or relatively new. I don't doubt that your having problems. I had a problem with all of my timing not coming in and it was a overtightened bushing nut. The smallest thing can cause big problems. My 6AL, MSD dist, and blaster 2 will spin my 302 at 6000rpm (chip) all day long.

When I wasn't getting full mech advance my dyno graph looked like you said. If you have a friend with a 6AL swap his in and see what happens. At what RPM is you peak occurring HP ? Put the car on the Dyno and have a friend do the driving and take a timing light and watch the timing through the whole run. You may have a bad 6AL or the mech advance may be stuck. I picked up 55hp with the timing fixed. Good luck

Later Dennis

[ruslow]

wires are taylor.As for the timing at 3000 the timing is all over the place.[varies as much as 10degrees!]I am thinking the box is bad.And it is all new less than 3oo miles on all of it.Stan

[mrmustang]

Which Taylor wires specifically? 409 Pro Racing, Hi Energy, ??????? Were these right out of the box, or did you need to cut and place the terminals on????

Bill S.

Originally posted by ruslow


wires are taylor.As for the timing at 3000 the timing is all over the place.[varies as much as 10degrees!]I am thinking the box is bad.And it is all new less than 3oo miles on all of it.Stan

[ruslow]

The 409 pro's and yes I had to cut them.But I know I left enough to fold over on the terminal.STan

[jmarsey]

Hey Stan,

Would you post some pics of your car and engine compartment? I know there are a few jbl'rs, myself included, who would be interested.

Thanks, John

[Tim Brewer]

Is your engine fuel injected?

[RACER X #99]

There is a good reason all pro racers run dual ignition systems. They all seem to give out every once in a while. I am not suggesting you run a dual system but your ign. box just may be going bad.
I was disappointed with the MSD and switched to the Crane ign box. There are others you can try.
Good luck.

RD

[mrmustang]

Stan,

As long as they are the Spiro-Wound and not the TCW Wire Core, your fine. If they are the TCW wire core, then replace them. Also double check your terminals, as one or two loose connections can have the same effect on your dyno pulls.

Bill S.

Originally posted by ruslow


The 409 pro's and yes I had to cut them.But I know I left enough to fold over on the terminal.STan

[dlampe]

I had the same EXACT dyno readings. I had new wires from ford but when I pushed the wires into the loom I created small cuts on them. They where barely visible! I switched the wires and smoothed out the graph and gain 20 horses!! I couldn't feel the detonation but it was there and after the new wires where added the car ran great.

[ruslow]

Would you post some pics of your car and engine compartment

and also what the car looks like.

[ruslow]

I have uploaded a few more pics int he gallery.
But as for the wires They are free to move and are not near anything as you can see in the pic.
I know I am leaving atleast 90 hp on the table just need to get it to the ground.Stan

[jmarsey]

Stan,

That's cool....I love it. Looks like the early chassis had more room for B2 head / header clearance.

Thanks for posting the pics.

John

[Rick Parker]

I had an experience a little over a year ago that opened my eyes.
I wanted the replace the distributor cap (black original MSD item) on my MSD (289) small diameter pro billet distributor with a new design (red) that MSD had just brought to the marketplace. I installed the cap put fresh Autolite race plugs (cut back gap) and the engine would not rev past about 4500 rpm. I changed wires to Holley 9MM resistance type with the same results. So I put the original wires back on (wasted $60). I then began to look at the dimensions internally between the two caps and there were some alarming concerns. The tip of the rotor was passing the cap contact about .160 below the end of the tower contact creating a huge air gap that I thought was part of the problem. I contacted MSD to point it out and the said in their testing it had not been a concern. I removed the cap anyway and put a replacement of the original black one on. I still had the same miss with the original wires and distributor. What solved the problem was the installation of a plug with a resistor in it. For some reason even the resistor type wires didn't have enough of a choke in them to allow it to function properly. After installation of the resistor plugs all was well. This still baffles me to this day, currently I run solid core wires with no problems.

Rick

[Curt C.]

On another subject, 11.8 A/F sound a little fat doesn't it? That it what forced induction cars shoot for. NA motors run best between 12.5 - 13.3.

[ruslow]

Thats true it is fat but rite now I am trying to fix the hp curve so it looks like a curve and not an a/c sine wave. stan

[Gotalbots]

By the way, I've never had a Dyno performed. Ballpark I should expect to pay for a Dyno with motor in the car? Diff types of Dyno's.

Thanks, Jeff.