What year SB to beat California Smog

onefastmustang · #1 (**permalink**) 07-24-2005, 04:51 PM

Does any one know what year 351W I would have to buy to not have to deal with the smog laws of California?? Is it before 74 or 71 or earlier??

TIA

Mike

SCOBRAC · #2 (**permalink**) 07-24-2005, 05:44 PM

No.. I'm not sure what you mean by beat the law... any engine you install in any car in california must have the smog devices that engine came with. Period. There are 500 exemptions given annually we collectively call "SB-100"...

If you get one of these spots you are PRESENTLY allowed to use any power you like without the emissions equipment that would have come on that engine, or in the case of a specialty or crate engine, any at all.

Generally engines built before 1968 had little if any smog control devices. In 1968 AIR, smog pumps and vacuum canisters, smaller carburators etc. were used.

Any car you build presently (except "SB-100" exempt cars) will require a smog check every 2 years forever. I say presently because in the past cars older than 30 years were exempt. Production cars first built before 1975 are exempt from smog checks but are still illegal to modify from stock. It is a common misconcption that you are (legally) able to modify these cars with impunity. It is rare but citations are issued for modifying any cars smog control device, including in the case of a car eqipped with catalytic converters, a cars exhaust.

onefastmustang · #3 (**permalink**) 07-24-2005, 06:19 PM

I am just looking for the year that I have to procur to minimize the amount of smog controls. I called the CHP and a nice Lt there helped me out. Its 1971.

SCOBRAC · #4 (**permalink**) 07-24-2005, 06:26 PM

The CHP isn't going to smog your car. Do some homework on the engine you want. Pre-74 cars had no catalytic converters but all 70's cars had thermostatic bypass switches and thermoactive air cleaners, all cars after 1968 had PCV valves (which are a good idea anyway) My 1968 has a two line vacuum advance, termo air cleaner and PCV valve. But many cars had smog pumps as far back as 1968 that pumped air into the heads. Heads which were very poor performers, all will be verified by the BAR and recorded, and reverified every 2 years by your local smog station.

Many industrial and truck engines of the period were smog control free. You really need to document everything. Part numbers, shop manual data. Old photos would be good to have.

Good Luck.

pgermond · #5 (**permalink**) 07-24-2005, 09:35 PM

65-66

HowardV · #6 (**permalink**) 07-24-2005, 11:54 PM

I think I can shed some light on this as I went through the same thing when I first got my car and SB-100 numbers were out. Let me clarify that with SB-100, you don't need ANY smog devices. But without it, read on.....

1969 was the first year the 351 Windsor was manufactured. I have a 1969 351 Windsor in my car and I failed miserably the first time around at the BAR referee station (no, CHP does not smog, that's the BAR - Bureau of Automotive Repair - who determines smog emissions).

In order to pass, the referee told me I had to do the following changes as they were required back in 1969: Thermostatic air cleaning assembly with heat riser, complete the PCV system, replace my Holly 600 carb with another carb that has automatic choke (mine had a manual choke).

I bought an old thermostatic air cleaning assembly and modified it to fit under my hood. Installed the heat riser and strapped it to one of the headers. Replaced the carburator with another Holly 600 that had auto choke, and to complete the PCV system, I also had to replace my distributor with one that had a vacuum advance. Most of this was done by my mechanic who did lots of research. After all this, I passed! I had to go through this every two years, so I got an SB-100 number in 2005 and took everything off. Since I don't need this stuff anymore, it's up for sale:

http://www.replicacobra.com/sale/Parts.htm

The above does not guarantee that you'll pass. On top of all the above, you should not have a modified engine (stroked, modified cam, etc.) Furthermore, the above is for a 1969 engine; more items may be needed if your engine is 1970/1971 (potentially a smog pump as well). The referee will take a smog reading and you cannot be above the limits at the idle test and the 2,500 rpm test. Another forum member has a 1966/67 427 side oiler and can't pass due to his modified cam (cannot pass the idle emissions test).

The referee is extremely thorough and strict. He spent an hour going over everything under the hood. He even called Holly carbs and verified that my Holly 600 wasn't legal back in 1969. While there, he also looked through many books to verify my PCV diagram. He was a nice guy, but very strict. He gave the following diagram to follow:

http://www.Audioguy.net/engine.jpg

However, based on new information from Mr. Morgester (the deputy attorney general) who recently posted to Club Cobra, a newer 351 Windsor engine may potentially be substituted and pass 1969 requirements. This is new information to many, good luck with the BAR on explaining how an newer 351W engine that replciates the 1969 motor should qualify under 1969 rules!

If you have any questions, let me know. Good luck!

Howard

Dangerous Doug · #7 (**permalink**) 07-25-2005, 08:58 AM

One thing you need to consider is the date code and casting code on the block you are going to use. The casting code is helpful in identifiying the block, but the BAR will look at the assembly date code (stamped in) to identify when the engine was built and you will need to comply with the smog requirements of the assemby date code.

I went with a 1965 289. This got me the desireable six-bolt bellhousing, and limits my need for smog equipment to a PCV valve.

By the way, you don't "beat" the CA smog, you "comply".

onefastmustang · #8 (**permalink**) 07-25-2005, 09:33 AM

Well what I think I am going to do is procur a 69 351W so I can have a minimal amount of engine clutter yet still attempt to get an SB100. How much of the car do i have to have built to get the SB100 number??

rcweingart · #9 (**permalink**) 07-28-2005, 09:38 PM

You personally do not have to build the car but you cannot have the dealer/company that you bought the car/kit from complete it. You can by up to a roller with everything but the drive train installed and then have a second company not affliated with the dealer from whom you got the car install the drive train - or do it yourself. You should have receipts and/or other proof that the cr was not a completed car when you bought it. Receipts showing you bought the car/kit from one source and receipts showing that you boiught the engine, etc., from a different source are desired. Photos showing you installing the drive train if you do it or receipts from a third party who installed it should satisfy the "proof" requirement. DMV wants you to list all of the costs associated with the vehicle including the value of your labor if you performed any labor on the completion/build of the car.

Tongue Pirate · #10 (**permalink**) 07-28-2005, 10:16 PM

I have a 64 289 block & plan to try to avoid the SB100. If this means I have to move out of state to register it well then it may just be helping me to get out sooner

I'm not afraid to say it but don't very often out loud here...The SB100 has the feeling of a concentration camp to me & I'm a little leary of what will become of it in the future. I''d rather have to meet smog requirements every couple years & know where I stand.

jdog · #11 (**permalink**) 07-28-2005, 10:52 PM

Hey Pirate, you're not being paranoid if they really are out to get you!

jdog

onefastmustang · #12 (**permalink**) 07-28-2005, 11:05 PM

Now if I stroked my 351W out to 393 how are they gonna know that??

***On top of all the above, you should not have a modified engine (stroked???? ***

Ron61 · #13 (**permalink**) 07-29-2005, 07:09 AM

If you like a big block, get a 1958-1959 332 or 352 Police Interceptor. They had NO smog equipment and just a metal tube out the back that pointed down for fumes to come out of. I prefer to put on the PCV valve and hose from oil cap to air cleaner as that removes pressure better. These engines are had to find except in restored cars, but there isn't much they can do with a pre 1960 engine as they don't even have any smog rules for them.

Ron

Tongue Pirate · #14 (**permalink**) 07-29-2005, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jdog

Hey Pirate, you're not being paranoid if they really are out to get you!

jdog

I figured at least you would see it my way!

Mark O'Neal · #15 (**permalink**) 08-05-2005, 01:50 PM

Other than standing in the rain on Jan 1 at 7am the SB100 is the way to go.

Mine was a 418 CHP stroker (with a huge cam) in a one piece rear main block (so 90 something) and no smog anything was required.

I did notice that the rules seemed to change according to which DMV employee I was facing that particular day, and that a multitude of trips to that fine establishment were required.

But the renewal showed up right on schedule the following August.

Randy Rosenberg · #16 (**permalink**) 08-05-2005, 02:00 PM

Hey Mark,

Could you elaborate a bit more?

Did you get an SB100 Sequence Number or not? And if not, then can you describe the process you went thru to get your car smog checked?

Thanks,
Randy R...

Mark O'Neal · #17 (**permalink**) 08-10-2005, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Randy Rosenberg

Hey Mark,

Could you elaborate a bit more?

Did you get an SB100 Sequence Number or not? And if not, then can you describe the process you went thru to get your car smog checked?

Thanks,
Randy R...

Yes, I did. We didn't have to do anything related to smog. However, registering it took shifts between me and my partner beginning in August.

They may make it possible, but they don't make it easy....