Anybody dealt with Ford Performance Solutions?

[blykins]

Ok....few notes.

Are those pistons domed (positive dome volume sticking above the piston) or are they dished?

An 11cc dome is way too much compression for 60cc heads....even with a very large cam, it wouldn't work. An 11cc dish is not enough I don't think.

I would go with a Probe forged piston, model 10666-030. They have 4cc valve reliefs. This would give you a static compression ratio of around 10.3:1. They are probably $100 cheaper per set than the SRP's as well. I've used Probe pistons several times....high quality stuff. Plus the valve reliefs are deep enough to accept high lift cams...you won't need to have them cut.

Here's where it gets exciting: A Cobra is light enough to where you can err a little on the racy side...you could pick some parts that are a little wild for the street and it will still work.

However, having said that, torque is where it's at...and the key to a good streetable, fun car is a good broad torque curve that has very high average torque/hp numbers instead of just a high peak.

If I were building the engine, I would be torn between using the Victor Jr heads or the Performer RPM heads.

What happens is that with such a small displacement, the 210cc ports are gonna be a little big....so it will take some revs to get the air velocity moving. Going down to the Performer RPM head with say a 190-195cc port will keep the velocity up and give you more torque.

Either head will work, but the Vic Jr's will give up a little torque on the bottom end. Both heads have 60cc chambers, so that wouldn't matter.

Getting down to the nitty gritty, I would use the following:

Probe SRS 4.030" forged pistons, 4cc valve reliefs. These are flat top pistons, with just eyebrows for the valves.

Comp Cams hydraulic roller, 31-442-8, 224/224 duration, .533/.533 lift.

If you have the block square decked so that the pistons are at zero deck (flush with the deck of the block), use that cam, install it at 110/106, your static compression ratio is 10.3:1.....and your dynamic compression ratio is 8.05:1. That means that you could probably get away with running around 89-90 octane.

The piston quench with this combo would be around .039", which is a good tight quench.

The peak would be about 6000-6200, but you'd have significant torque all across the powerband....which is very important.

What's most important is that with that roller cam, you can turn the key for the first time and you won't have to worry about trying to make all the planets line up so you can break in the cam for 30 minutes....and then have to worry about whether it was done correctly. Just remember, if you assemble the rest of the motor yourself and you screw up a cam breakin, you're responsible for the carnage. And there WILL be carnage. Cam wipe outs will affect the whole engine....oil pump, bearings, etc. It will be expensive.

Spiders (what holds the lifters in place) are around $50.....doesn't take but 30 minutes to install one.

BTW....the Performer RPM Air Gap would be the perfect match for this setup...

[fsstnotch]

Blykins, thanks for the info!

I looked at the catalog that i was using for parts and the SCAT chart on the page with this kit says I'd be at about 10:1 CR. Now, I dunno how it all works and the math and everything... It also says that the pistons you have options of Probe, srp, or JE flat tops.

I liked the Victor Jr's just for that reason, lower low end torque. In my eye that translates to better acceleration in a cobra. Am I thinking correct here?

Josh

[blykins]

Well the Vic Jr's won't give you the lower end that you're thinking of.....but that's what I'm saying....a Cobra is a very light car...which is forgiving in the low-end department along with carb selection, etc.

You would probably be fine with the Vic Jr's, but I think I would kinda lean towards the smaller ports of the Performer RPM heads.

For the RPM range that you're looking at and to have a good shove back into the seat, I'd shoot for torque. The smaller ports of the RPM heads would give you that....whereas the Vic Jr. heads would need more revs to keep the air velocity momentum up.

With the RPM heads, the roller cam that I spec'd, and the RPM Air Gap, I think you'd have a lot of low to mid range torque/power.

The Probe pistons will work well with the Scat components. If those SRP pistons were 11cc dish pistons, then I think the compression ratio would be lower than what would be optimum for your application.

[JustOne]

A friend of mine did a lot of research and ended up using them to build a 331. He was very happy with their customer service.
After his experience I decided to use them as well to build my stroked Windsor. They did a very good job and the motor runs great, I would use them again.

I did end up buying my friend's car (Mustang) with the F-P-S 331 after he put 1000 miles on the motor. I was going to build it into a race car, but decided not to. The motor is a DART block based 331 with AFR 205 heads from F-P-S, I am selling it for $6800 if interested.

Justin
713-881-7143

[fsstnotch]

Maybe I won't be building an engine after all.... I found a deal on this for $6800 obo, I'm pretty sure I couldn't build the engine and buy the tranny for that price! I might buy it and sell the car back as a roller. Pretty decent looking car too, shouldn't have a problem selling it as a roller!

1991 Factory 5.0 5speed car, red with grey interior. Interior is near perfect.
351 Windsor 11 to 1
Weisco pistons
Stock crank and rods with Arp bolts
dss main support
Canton 7qt pan
Trickflow iron Highport heads(ported) 1.6 roller rockers arp head bolts
Solid Roller comp cam
Motorsport (vic jr)intake
Holley 750 carb
CSR throttle bracket & Cable
MSD distributor
Keith Craft Racing valve covers
Tremec tko 600(new)
Spec stg 3 clutch(new)
Steel billet flywheel(new)
4.10 gears(new)
MSD 6al box
MSD coil
Aluminum radiator(new)
Electric fan(new)
Aeromotive S/S fuel pump(new)
Autometer guages tach, oil, water, volts
1 3/4 Hooker super comp headers long tubes
2 1/2 h-pipe with flowmasters
Exterior is in good condition---no rust body is straight
Keanan cowl hood, new headlights, New Weld wheels

[blykins]

Sounds like a good buy....I wouldn't necessarily trust stock rods and a solid roller cam isn't ideal for a car that's going to get driven a lot on the street, but it would probably give you a good platform to start from.

[fsstnotch]

Ya, I'm not a big fan of the solid cam either... Just looking at it though, the the TKO sells the car for me. Plus, I've already got a buyer for the roller! I don't think I can go wrong spending $3800 for the engine and tranny?

[blykins]

I agree with you. If you bought a TKO600 new, you'd pay almost $2000 for it. If everything is in good condition and the engine hasn't been puked, then it sounds like you've found a reasonable deal.

You have to wonder though....why's he selling so cheap?

[fsstnotch]

I agree! How far are you from Whitley City, KY? That's where it is. i may need a helping hand to take a look at it before I send my guy all the way from Oklahoma City to pick it up!

[blykins]

I'm about 3.5 hours from there....I'm on the extreme north side of the state.....Whitley City is on the Tennessee/KY border.

[FUNFER2]

I realize this is a old thread but, I have a question about this company's engines.
Has anyone had them build a FE/side oiler ?

The prices for their engines seem to be pretty low.

Kevin

[blykins]

I think they specialize in SBF stuff. I've bought parts from them way back before I was in the business.

What are you looking for? If you need a builder, let me know. I screen customers.

[FUNFER2]

I'll send you a PM.