Water leak on new motor

[MrMagoo]

I have a coolant leak on my brand new KC motor I discovered when firing it up for testing/tuning! The leak is at the bottom of the timing chain cover, right near the lowest bolt on the passenger side. I can see where the fluid is weeping slowly out at the gasket.

What I would like to know is:

Is this a big or small problem? Is water supposed to be there? My oil looks clean and uncontaminated.

The bolts at the water pump and the timing chain are all torqued down. Should I try loosening them and retorquing them or is that a waste of time? Should I just assume it's a gasket malfunction and proceed from there?

Is this a common occurrence on a new motor? I was hoping that having KCR assemble the whole thing would tend to make things like this way less likely.

Regards to all and hope all of your projects are going smoothly.

[madmaxx]

You have two gaskets. A gasket between your water pump and water pump backing plate and between the backing plate and timing cover. Each gasket is $1.99. Timing cover gasket is felpro 35211 and depending on which water pump felpro35066, most are universal. Requires removal of water pump.

Now I am postive KC used gaskets and sealant, this is a problamtic area on these engines. I have done about 8 and never had a leaker, I use gaskets and Permatex ultra grey gasket maker, yes gaskets and gasket maker no gasket shellac.

Call Keith but the solution may be as easy as $1.99 bottle of bars leak. Even if the pump were not leaking I am a proponet of a 4 cylinder dose just to catch any threaded fasteners which may tie into water jackets.

Common problem, solution depends on your skill level.

[madmaxx]

do not loosen and retighten any bolts, it will make it worse. There are 4 "blind" bolts which can only be accessed once the water pump is removed. If you tighten the accessible bolts they will futher crush the gasket but you will not be able to tighten the hidden bolts and leak will get worse.

I would put the bars leak in. OEM's GM and Ford do it as standard procedure on new cars.

[madmaxx]

I beleive the torque spec in 15 ft-lbs if you try to remove and replace.

[MrMagoo]

I'll take everyones advice and do the bar's leak first. I figure there is no way I am going to take the water pump and timing chain cover off and do a better job than what KCR did, so I'll avoid that if possible, and do a gasket replacement if necessary.

Thanks to all, as always you guys are great. The KCR fired right up on the third pull by the way.

[madmaxx]

You do not have to take the timing cover off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The water pump and backing plate bolt to the timing cover. Just to cover your basis give KC a call to get his opinion!!

[MrMagoo]

Right. I've been mistakenly calling the backing plate the timing chain cover. I'll call him too. Thanks.

[MrMagoo]

I spoke with Keith this afternoon. The reason I went with KCR was because of their reputation for customer service, and I have not been disappointed. What a helpful guy. He did advise me to use the Bar's leak, and also suggested that after running it through a few heat/cool cycles I make sure the appropriate bolts are snugged.

[Dennis Kelley]

Retorque the water pump, intake bolt, and timing bolts. The bolts loosen up through heat cycles. I have had small leaks like this and a retorque has taken care of them.
Good luck
Dennis

[MrMagoo]

Bar's leak is the amazing magic fix. Garage floor dry now.