Hey you Fountains of Knowledge...

[LudicrousSpeed]

Me again,

I was wondering if you guys knew of any good books or internet links for learning about engines in general (theory, function, maintenance & upgrading) and Ford small blocks in particular.

I'm currently reading a book called "How to build max performance Ford V-8's on a budget" by George Reid. It gets into alot of good stuff but assumes a certain level of knowledge & experience.

My experience is limited to several engine & shop classes in Highschool, and a few years wrenching on bombers and jets in the military, plus some tinkering around with light General Aviation aircraft engines.

I plan to enroll in some engine maint classes at the local JC, but in the mean time I'd like to beef up de brain.

Thanks!

[ERA Chas]

Lude,
See any of the books listed here:
http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Sm.../dp/0912656891
Tom Monroe is a member here-I think his sig is "Speed 220". Isaac Martin and Geo. Reid are quality scribes and tech guys.

[sllib]

I just go to the "Transportation" section at Barnes & Noble and buy anything that interests me. You might also try the magazine "Engine Masters". It's not all Ford but thr principles are all the same.
Bill Stradtner

[olddog]

Originally Posted by LudicrousSpeed

I'm currently reading a book called "How to build max performance Ford V-8's on a budget" by George Reid.

I renamed the book "How to build low performance emissions legal Ford V-8's out of a junk yard."

About 4 different places in the book he states cam shaft durration as degrees of rotation at the cam shaft. That is flat wrong! It is degree of rotation at the crank shaft.

I got so sick and tired of the guy talking down to you and rambling on and on about saving the enviroment that I have a case of the ass for him.

You will note he never gets to any technical details of doing anything. I don't think he actually knows any technical details.

[Bernica]

"Ford Performance" - Pat Gandahl
"How to rebuild your Bid Block Ford" - Steve Christ
"Ford engine parts interchange" - George Reid

I've had these and may others for years and still use them.

[Tom Cimino]

When I built my 302,(in '83) the first thing I did was buy "How to rebuild your small block Ford" by Tom Monroe. Over the years, I've worn out that book. My copy is from the early eighty's. I would imagine a newer copy would have updated information. When I was considering a 347 for my Cobra, I picked up "Ford Windsor Small Block Performance" by Isaac Martin and "How to build Big-inch Ford small blocks" by George Reid. Lots of good info.

[PANAVIA]

Haynes has good technical books , but not much on theory , just repair.

I would go into the used bookstore and try to find something from the 1950's or 1960's , you can find some real jems there that are technically awesome and mechanical.

I have a jaguar engine book from 1959 that is awesome mental vacation material.

also Popular mechanics used to make how to guides in the 1950s that you can find that are a blast from the past and a good foundation for modern kids wanting to understand engines.

--Steve

[RICK LAKE]

LudicrousSpeed The books listed here will give you a GENERAL idea on how to rebuild a motor for normal driving. Finding Blueprint specs are the better way to go and should have the latest info on each block. IMO and your limited ablities of building a motor, Let someone like KCR build the short block or buy one from Ford Racing Parts and assembly it yourself with just basic tools. The machinist that advertise on this forum have between 20-40+ years of building motors. There are tricks that apply to each motor family that help in a long life for that motor. FE motor is a prime example with the stroker kits and running BBC rods in them. They will last longer, the rods weight less, the bearings are wider for handling more load pressure. Small block windsor motors also have special things done. A stock rebuild will work fine if you drive your cobra NORMALLY. I doubt this will happen. Don't worry about how much HP the motor makes. Build a strong torque motor and limit the rpms to 6,000 and you will get many years out of this motor. VOTECH classes will help you to understand doing BASIC machine work on a motor but I have not seen these motors last long on the street. It takes about 60-100 hours to do a complete motor assembly with ALL the correct measuring and rechecking of each parts before assembly. An example of this is the rod bolts if ARP need to be stretched and measured 3 times before measurements are done. 8 rods, 2 bolts per rod, using the caliper for stretch to check, adds up to 2 3/4 hours alone. This is what people don't under stand about WHY and HOW MUCH is cost for top notch motor builders to assembly motors. Degreeing a camshaft, looks and sound easy, can take 2 hours to do a setup and recheck. I think you see where I am coming from. Let someone assembly your short block and you do the rest, heads, water pump, intake( becareful with the gaskets here) oil pan( check the air space between the pan bottom and pickup tube, I like 1/4 " to 3/8") Check pushrod lengths to keep the rocker centered on the valve stem. There are plenty of guys on the forum that will help walk you through the assembly of your motor and help install it in the car. Make sure you get the dampener and flywheel with the short block and that they are all balanced together. Good luck Rick L.

[csingletary01]

I presently have a 306 SBF in my Cobra. Can I swap in a 351W and use my present headers and side pipes. The only difference seems to be 1" of total width or less. Have any of you Fountains done this in past. I have some motor issues with my 306 and would like to go with more CID on next motor. My headers and side pipes are like new, ceramic coated so would love to save expese of new and use again.

[tcrist]

I replaced my 302 with a 351W. The header bolt patterns on the 302 & the 351W were the same. My issue was that the deck height was taller on the 351. This means the 351 headers set higher and a little wider in the body. I replaced my engine mounts and brackets with modified ones that lowered the engine about 1/2". These were supplied by the manufacture of my Cobra (Classic Roadsters). The only issue with that is now my oil pan sets lower than my front crossmember.

Terry

[manyponies]

Too bad your on the other side of the map. We are talking to our local college about starting a coarse in high performance engine theory and hands on training in our shop. I'm wanting to get the hands on skilled young people interested in the math and engineering part of this. We want to eventually get to the high school kids and teach them. When I was in school and college there were the kids that knew what a toolbox looked like and the bookworms. I want to get the hands on kids interested in engines enough to make them want to study their sciences.

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

LudicrousSpeed The books listed here will give you a GENERAL idea on how to rebuild a motor for normal driving. Finding Blueprint specs are the better way to go and should have the latest info on each block. IMO and your limited ablities of building a motor, Let someone like KCR build the short block or buy one from Ford Racing Parts and assembly it yourself with just basic tools. The machinist that advertise on this forum have between 20-40+ years of building motors. There are tricks that apply to each motor family that help in a long life for that motor. FE motor is a prime example with the stroker kits and running BBC rods in them. They will last longer, the rods weight less, the bearings are wider for handling more load pressure. Small block windsor motors also have special things done. A stock rebuild will work fine if you drive your cobra NORMALLY. I doubt this will happen. Don't worry about how much HP the motor makes. Build a strong torque motor and limit the rpms to 6,000 and you will get many years out of this motor. VOTECH classes will help you to understand doing BASIC machine work on a motor but I have not seen these motors last long on the street. It takes about 60-100 hours to do a complete motor assembly with ALL the correct measuring and rechecking of each parts before assembly. An example of this is the rod bolts if ARP need to be stretched and measured 3 times before measurements are done. 8 rods, 2 bolts per rod, using the caliper for stretch to check, adds up to 2 3/4 hours alone. This is what people don't under stand about WHY and HOW MUCH is cost for top notch motor builders to assembly motors. Degreeing a camshaft, looks and sound easy, can take 2 hours to do a setup and recheck. I think you see where I am coming from. Let someone assembly your short block and you do the rest, heads, water pump, intake( becareful with the gaskets here) oil pan( check the air space between the pan bottom and pickup tube, I like 1/4 " to 3/8") Check pushrod lengths to keep the rocker centered on the valve stem. There are plenty of guys on the forum that will help walk you through the assembly of your motor and help install it in the car. Make sure you get the dampener and flywheel with the short block and that they are all balanced together. Good luck Rick L.

Good stuff Rick. But throw us a bone every once in a while and include a paragraph break.