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04-26-2009, 07:27 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Greer,
SC
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 37
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Not Ranked
Questions about a 351w
I just got a 351w for a good deal,I am getting ready to take it to the machine shop.
I need to ask a question first.
Ok first off here is my block number E4AE-6015-FA,that says that it is from an '84 F150,is this going to work for a cobra build or am I going to have to start all over?
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04-26-2009, 08:51 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hillsboro,
OR
Cobra Make, Engine: Scratch built CSX style frame, Carbon fiber body, 393 Stroker, T-bird IRS, T5
Posts: 1,623
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Not Ranked
As long as you're planning on doing a rebuild and replacing the cam and other pieces it should be fine as long as it is a 351W and not a 351M. For the most part, the 351M only came in trucks. They are more difficult to build as there are few performance parts available for them.
All the 351W blocks are the same except the 69-70 blocks which have a shorter deck, and the 94-95 blocks, which are roller blocks. The truck engines probably have a low end cam in them that won't be suitable for a cobra build.
Bob
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04-26-2009, 09:06 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Greer,
SC
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 37
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Not Ranked
I already took the cam and pistons out.I was going to order a complete rebuild,minus the crankshaft.I already had it checked at the machine shop and he said that the crankshaft looks real good.
The reason that I ask is b/c I was looking on another forum and someone on there was telling a guy that he had to find a block with a roller cam.
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04-26-2009, 09:38 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hillsboro,
OR
Cobra Make, Engine: Scratch built CSX style frame, Carbon fiber body, 393 Stroker, T-bird IRS, T5
Posts: 1,623
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Not Ranked
There are several ways to use roller rockers in the earlier blocks without a roller block. The easeist way is to use the tie bar lifters from several sources. You can also use the 302/351W spider and dog bone system which can be picked up cheap, by having your machinist do a small amount of grinding around the lifter bores for the dogbones to lay flat and drill/tap for the 1/4" bolts that hold the spider down in the valley. This should be done before installing new cam bearings as these holes line up with the front and rear cam bearing locations and you could easily go through and damage the bearings.
Or, you could avoid all that and just go with a flat tappet cam and lifters. If you're not comfortable making a decision on this , talk to your machinist or an engine builder you know to see which way they would probably go.
The use of roller rockers will probably require you to use a retrofit cam with the small base circle. No big deal, just be sure you know to order the right cam to start with.
Bob
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04-26-2009, 10:48 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Florence,
AL
Cobra Make, Engine: RCR GT 40 & 1966 Fairlane 390 5 speed
Posts: 4,511
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Not Ranked
roller block
this is a picture of a 302 with the spider in place. Note the two 1/4 x 20 bolts that hold it in place. Very easy to do yourself.
Dwight
__________________
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"Happiness Is A Belt-Fed Weapon"
life's goal should be; "to be smarter than inanimate objects"
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04-26-2009, 12:04 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Greer,
SC
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 37
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Is the roller set up something I have to have though,can I still bolt up a t-5 trans and 8.8 rearend without the roller setup?
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04-26-2009, 12:59 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hillsboro,
OR
Cobra Make, Engine: Scratch built CSX style frame, Carbon fiber body, 393 Stroker, T-bird IRS, T5
Posts: 1,623
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Not Ranked
The roller set up only refers to the valve train so it has no impact on your choice of transmission or rear end.
Bob
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04-26-2009, 01:30 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Greer,
SC
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 37
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Thanks so much for all the help.
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