M-6010-N351 w/ Hydraulic Roller Cams

[bmcnicho]

I purchased a M-6010-N351 block from ford racing and was planning on putting in a hydraulic roller cam. The block does not have penetrations in the lifter valley to attach the lifter guide plate. Is the guide plate needed, or do I have to machine additional holes in the block to attach the lifter guide plate?

[olddog]

To use the OEM style roller lifters you have to machine the block. I think it is a pretty simple thing that most any shop can do. I don't think is is too costly.

[PANAVIA]

use the spider as a template and use 1/4-20 bolts - no biggie.

Double check dog-bone/fork alignment for each pair of lifters. you may have to do some minor clearance work. --again no biggie.

[bobcowan]

Or, you could use a link bar lifter. If the engine is already assembled, you probably don't want to be drilling and grinding on it. A lot more expensive, though.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

Or, you could use a link bar lifter. If the engine is already assembled, you probably don't want to be drilling and grinding on it. A lot more expensive, though.

I just use the link-bar lifters,too easy, did it on my last 2 motors.........(even a cave man can do it)

David

[bmcnicho]

I see the Ford Racing M-6500-S58 and the COMP Cams 8931-16. Which do you suggest, or is there another you prefer?

[blykins]

Edit...I thought you were showing the lifter spider.

I wouldn't spend $400-500 on lifters guys. You can get the OEM lifters for $120 + $40 for the spider. It literally takes 30 minutes to drill/tap the bolts for the spider.

BTW, don't drill a thru hole....you'll be drilling into a cam bearing/cam bearing journal.

[PANAVIA]

i would go stock as well. -- the bumps for the spider should be there in the N351--

[mikeforte]

Hi,
I stock link bar lifters from Comp Cams & Ford.

[mikeforte]

Hi,
The Comp Cams 8931-16 roller conversion kit I want to sell for $450.00.
Summit has them @ $529.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-8931-16/

[bmcnicho]

I was surprised, but the B50 & B58 blocks (Amateur Competition) do have provisions for the spider, but the M&N351 (Professional Competition) do not (go figure). I didn't realize it until the short block was assembled. We had to grind down some raised lettering in the lifter valley and hand drill holes to accept the screws for the spider. The holes still aren't tapped since our tap & dye kit tapers down, so at the current depth of the hole the tool bottoms out in the hole before it removes material for the threads. I am a bit scared to just drill deeper because I don't want to end up making a through hole in the block. I am considering grinding down the tapered end of the tap & dye so it is more square and will remove material for the threads sooner.

[bobcowan]

spend $10 and get a bottom tap. You'll get much better results, and won't ruin your standard tap.