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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2009, 10:42 PM
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Default What Oil for new engine

I am just about to start my motor which has been stored for four years - Lubricated and "turned over" regularly
It is a high spec 351w stroked to 427
Built by Speed o Motive in CA
Dyno 520hp
Iron block with Victor Junior Heads
What viscosoty Range?
Synthetic or not?
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:46 PM
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no synthetic until rings have seated. brad-penn oil they have varied viscosity offerings.
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:57 PM
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I have a similar engine (Roush 427SR). They recommended 10-30W for 3000 mile break in. I did mine for 1500 miles then switched to 15-50W synthetic since I do track days.
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Old 06-15-2009, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FWB View Post
no synthetic until rings have seated. brad-penn oil they have varied viscosity offerings.
Brad Penn oils are partial synthetic. Regular 10/30 would work well for the break-in period. Sinjin, you said the engine had been stored, so maybe you've already broken it in. You might want to check with the builder.
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Last edited by Got the Bug; 06-15-2009 at 11:16 PM..
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:17 AM
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Thanks Doug - No the motor has only had 20 minutes on the Dyno
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Old 06-16-2009, 04:13 AM
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Is it a flat tappet or roller cam? If a flat tappet, you're in a whole different world, and it will take some care on start up.
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:25 PM
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Its a roller cam Brent - Does that make your recomendation the same as the others?
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:40 PM
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20 min. on the dyno should seat the rings. put some good oil in it and drive it like you stole it!
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:41 PM
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Yep, I'd just run a regular non-synthetic oil for awhile (or for good, it's a lot cheaper), viscosity depending on where you live.
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Old 06-19-2009, 01:11 AM
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if it were my motor. -- i would drain the current oil. change the filter.

allow the current oil to drain for a full 15 mins and look for any signs of water or condensation, pollutants.

refill crankcase with its full compliment of chevron Delo 400 30W/ or 15-W40 oil , replace oil filter motorcraft FL1A (buy a second filter and keep it close by)

Check torque on all items. --

A> pop out the spark plugs and with an oil can squirt a little bit of oil on the top of each piston. ( priming dry rings. )
B> eyeball spark plugs and check gap (.035 stockish ign / .044 with MSD)
C> check carb and clean out or replace (remember carbs that sit , turn to SH*@*#)
D> Pop out distributor, prime oiling system
E> re insert dist, align make sure coil is inert.
F> pop off valve covers and spin motor with starter for a couple of 5 second bursts following firing order and listen and observe for any oddness-- reinsert plugs, pop on valve cos'.
G> Fire up and run at 1500-2000 for 15-20 mins - check oil for x,y,z
H> change filter , add 1 quart oil.
I > Run for another 30 mins at variant speeds, check for evil.
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Last edited by PANAVIA; 06-19-2009 at 01:15 AM..
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Old 06-19-2009, 06:11 PM
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Thanks Panavia.
The oil used for the Dyno set up was drained before it was shipped from CA to NZ.
I will certainly follow the steps on your list.
It has had twenty minutes on the Dyno so all being well will take to the road instead of the twenty minute stationary running you suggest.
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Old 06-19-2009, 06:58 PM
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I would run just cheap Crisco oil.
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