McCleod RST Clutch

Rosco · #1 (**permalink**) 05-21-2012, 06:22 PM

In the process of changing my clutch and wanted some input on the McCleod RST set-up...

Anyone running this?

It will be a slave-type set-up mated to a close ratio top loader. Engine is a KC 482 wiith + 575 HP at the flywheel...

Thanks,

Great Asp · #2 (**permalink**) 05-21-2012, 06:37 PM

Red Roberts personally recommended the RST to me (I was thinking RXT) for my KC 496 (666-lb ft).

Easier to depress the clutch pedal. Engaging the clutch is a little more tight, meaning that the distance your foot travels from open to closed is smaller, but VERY streetable.

After 600 miles I hammered it 3 times from a dig. Each time I felt it get more sticky, and it does not slip like the old single disc did.

I recommend it!

E

jwoodard · #3 (**permalink**) 05-21-2012, 06:44 PM

I installed a McLeod Street Twin when I completed my engine install in mid-2004. Been running it ever since with no issues. Had it out of the car just last month while doing some other work and took it to McLeod for inspection. Checked out just fine. I think you will be pleased with the RST. I'm running a HTOB for what it's worth. Engine is a Keith Craft 496 FE.

Great Asp · #4 (**permalink**) 05-21-2012, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwoodard

Engine is a Keith Craft 496 FE.

I wonder where I got the idea for my motor?????

E

fordracing65 · #5 (**permalink**) 05-21-2012, 07:32 PM

That clutch with an aluminum flywheel is the way to go.

blykins · #6 (**permalink**) 05-22-2012, 02:58 AM

Rosco, I can answer any questions that you have.

My first question for you though, is if that Toploader is a big input or small input.

If it's a big input, then you'll have to move to something else besides an RST as they are not available in a 1-3/8x10.

If it's a small input, then you're in luck. These are wonderful clutches and I use them on all of my street engines over 650hp, or where guys want a chatter-free, easy-pedal clutch kit.

If you don't plan to track your car, you can get away with something a little less expensive, but the RST would certainly be a nice upgrade.

I don't care for aluminum flywheels on the street...I'd rather have a lighter steel flywheel that will help you when you're taking off from a dead stop, especially on a hill.

If you're interested in a clutch kit, let me know....I offer a Club Cobra discount.

Rosco · #7 (**permalink**) 05-22-2012, 03:27 AM

Thanks for all the input on this...

Blykins, will call you today or this evening (after hour number is?).... can you PM me with a number?

Thanks again,

Gino

blykins · #8 (**permalink**) 05-22-2012, 03:58 AM

Call anytime....502.759.1431

RICK LAKE · #9 (**permalink**) 05-22-2012, 04:18 AM

Rosco. I have one install behind my 482. Still breaking in. Only 540HP and 620ft of torque.
Couple of questions, why not go to a TKO 600 or Richmond super street 5 spd with over drive?
Follow the instruction to the letter, Blue locktite on all fasteners. Toque to specs.
When installed make sure you have complete disengagement on the jacks looking of .035" clearance with clutch pedal in.
Breakin as told with about 500 miles before any WOT runs. It gets better with heat cycles.
Clutch pedal stop under dash. You might have to do this to stop from over extending the slave cylinder or bending the forks. This also applys to HTOB too.
Good luck, wait till you use the pedal a couple of times, can't believe how easy it is. Rick L.

Rosco · #10 (**permalink**) 05-22-2012, 05:30 AM

Rick,

In hindsight, a five-speed with OD would have been the way to go... Just wanted to stay with / caught up with the original specs top loader close ratio 4-speed and 3.54 gears...

Thanks for the input...

fordracing65 · #11 (**permalink**) 05-22-2012, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

Rosco, I can answer any questions that you have.

My first question for you though, is if that Toploader is a big input or small input.

If it's a big input, then you'll have to move to something else besides an RST as they are not available in a 1-3/8x10.

If it's a small input, then you're in luck. These are wonderful clutches and I use them on all of my street engines over 650hp, or where guys want a chatter-free, easy-pedal clutch kit.

If you don't plan to track your car, you can get away with something a little less expensive, but the RST would certainly be a nice upgrade.

I don't care for aluminum flywheels on the street...I'd rather have a lighter steel flywheel that will help you when you're taking off from a dead stop, especially on a hill.

If you're interested in a clutch kit, let me know....I offer a Club Cobra discount.

Brent, what are the weight differences, aluminum, light steel, and steel, with the flywheel, when using the RST twin.

blykins · #12 (**permalink**) 05-22-2012, 08:44 AM

Rosco,

I've tried to return your phone call several times. Each time I get a messages that says the number is no longer in service? Weird.....

Pete,

The aluminum FE flywheels that I use are 14 lbs. The steel ones are 28-30 lbs. Factory style steel/cast iron are closer to 40 lbs.

The RST clutch is very light as the adapter plate is aluminum and the pressure plate is 9.5".

I used both steel and aluminum flywheels on my own Cobra and I didn't like the aluminum flywheel at all in a street driving style setting. That was with a 428 FE, a TKO, and a 3.70 gear.

fordracing65 · #13 (**permalink**) 05-22-2012, 09:05 AM

I have never tried the light steel flywheel, my last cobra was a RST with aluminum flywheel, the Kirkhams recomend aluminum and said it revs much faster and is great for there canyon driving habits in Utah, AZ around town is really flat, just trying to decide which way to go.

Dimis · #14 (**permalink**) 05-22-2012, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordracing65

I have never tried the light steel flywheel, my last cobra was a RST with aluminum flywheel, the Kirkhams recomend aluminum and said it revs much faster and is great for there canyon driving habits in Utah, AZ around town is really flat, just trying to decide which way to go.

I've had this discussion with Brent & others... this is what I've found:

IF you are stop-starting then the slightly heavier flywheel is best (ie: a little over 1% of car weight - ie 2000# car 20-25# flywheel). I'm not talking 40#

I know it's not the "sexy" or preferred "opinion", but none the less, it is what I've found.

The lighter fly wheels are great once the car is moving, ie: racing or Kirkham canyon drives, etc... but it can be tiresome slipping the clutch to get them up to overcome standing inertia from a dead stop all the time. You'll likely wear it out sooner.

Truth is 22# flywheel is still pretty light and at the back of an FE with 600ft/tq will not slow the sucker down much.

Just be honest with the type of driving you will be doing. This is indeed one of the hardest parts when deciding on your build.

--
NB: Again - this is purely my concluding & own humble opinion - If you want professional advice speak to Blykins!

Rosco · #15 (**permalink**) 05-23-2012, 05:43 AM

Huge thanks to Brent @ B2 for pointing me in the right direction... Ordered the parts last night and hopefully install this weekend...

McCleod RST it is! Will follow-up with my experience...

Thanks to all!

Rosco · #16 (**permalink**) 05-27-2012, 06:49 AM

Well installed the clutch yesterday and wow!!! What s difference from my other 11-inch set-up. Much easier to depress pedal and it shifts and grabs nicely...

Again, a shout out to Brent @ B2 for the parts and also Tom / Don @ Dole Auto as they installed the clutch and it was perfect at start-up.

Thanks to all and safe driving....

R