Any recommendations before I buy?

mabbott74 · #1 (**permalink**) 07-28-2020, 10:36 AM

Hello fellow enthusiasts. I've been looking for a project for some time and have come across a running, titled, 1st owner FFR replica near me. There is just enough left to do for me to put some personal touches on it. It's priced close to what a complete kit lists for currently but includes the drive train, wheels and tires. He has all the documentation. I know I need to look at specific options, build quality, etc. but are there some other things I should consider before making an offer? Any questions to ask regarding the paperwork? Thanks in advance for your collective wisdom.

mabbott74 · #2 (**permalink**) 07-28-2020, 03:13 PM

I obviously posted this in the wrong spot. If an admin happens across this and can delete please do so. I didn't see that as an option anywhere.

mln385 · #3 (**permalink**) 07-28-2020, 04:55 PM

What version FFR is it ? FFR like many of the manufactures continue to tweak and improve on the product.

mabbott74 · #4 (**permalink**) 07-28-2020, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mln385

What version FFR is it ? FFR like many of the manufactures continue to tweak and improve on the product.

That's one of the things on my list as it wasn't specified in the description.

eschaider · #5 (**permalink**) 07-29-2020, 06:34 PM

As the Knight's Templar suggested to Indy as he pondered which chalice was the real Grail — "Choose wisely, ..."

Ed

patrickt · #6 (**permalink**) 07-29-2020, 06:41 PM

As a general rule, the more money you spend the better the end product will be.

mrmustang · #7 (**permalink**) 07-29-2020, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mabbott74

That's one of the things on my list as it wasn't specified in the description.

Find out what the FFR chassis number on the MSO is and post it here. Also look back at my previous posts for the last 4-5 weeks as I remember posting the differences/running changes for the FFR's recently.

Bill S.

desgros@vtlink. · #8 (**permalink**) 07-30-2020, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

As a general rule, the more money you spend the better the end product will be.

So very true, you get what you pay for.

John
ERA #3010 Slabside 289 SB BRG

mabbott74 · #9 (**permalink**) 07-30-2020, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eschaider

As the Knight's Templar suggested to Indy as he pondered which chalice was the real Grail — "Choose wisely, ..."

Ed

No offense to everyone else but after this statement you are all competing for second place.

mabbott74 · #10 (**permalink**) 07-30-2020, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrmustang

Find out what the FFR chassis number on the MSO is and post it here. Also look back at my previous posts for the last 4-5 weeks as I remember posting the differences/running changes for the FFR's recently.

Bill S.

Will do. BTW the First time Cobra Buyers link was extremely helpful. Thanks.

Unique427 · #11 (**permalink**) 07-30-2020, 01:19 PM

Is the titled car in your state?
Your bio shows NC.
NCDMV has "special construction" and "replica"
catagories when submitting for a title.
It also looks like it will require a vehicle
inspection.

Just be sure you know the DMV rules
before buying so it's not hung up
in some paperwork nightmare.

olddog · #12 (**permalink**) 07-30-2020, 10:49 PM

Go with a running completed car, that is a quality manufacturer that is still in business.

I an incomplete kit, go with the above plus make sure the MSO and all parts have receipts that your DMV will accept as proof that the parts were not stolen. One questionable part and they may go over everything with a fine tooth comb.

mabbott74 · #13 (**permalink**) 08-11-2020, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrmustang

Find out what the FFR chassis number on the MSO is and post it here. Also look back at my previous posts for the last 4-5 weeks as I remember posting the differences/running changes for the FFR's recently.

Bill S.

It's a MK3 #1459 I believe. It's been titled in TN and according to the DMV/Theft Inspection Department that should put me way ahead in the game getting it titled in NC.

twobjshelbys · #14 (**permalink**) 08-11-2020, 12:04 PM

How can you title an incomplete kit? I know of no DMV that will let you haul in a pile of parts on a trailer and give you a title...

MKS427 · #15 (**permalink**) 08-11-2020, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

How can you title an incomplete kit? I know of no DMV that will let you haul in a pile of parts on a trailer and give you a title...

It's old enough where it may have been complete at one time. It's the only thing that would make sense to me, if it's actually titled.

twobjshelbys · #16 (**permalink**) 08-11-2020, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MKS427

It's old enough where it may have been complete at one time. It's the only thing that would make sense to me, if it's actually titled.

My suspicion is that they are using the term "MSO" and "title" interchangeably. It's not... Every jurisdiction I know of requires the motor vehicle to OPERATE (ie, it has to have an engine, not pedals) [and usually that is qualified with "safely"]... A pile of parts on the garage floor doesn't qualify. So the message is "be cautious and demand proof that a kit has a legitimate MOTOR VEHICLE TITLE" because it probably doesn't.

mrmustang · #17 (**permalink**) 08-11-2020, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mabbott74

It's a MK3 #1459 I believe. It's been titled in TN and according to the DMV/Theft Inspection Department that should put me way ahead in the game getting it titled in NC.

It's a MK 1 I had FFR2134K which was a MK I.5 tweener, it had the transmission backbone, but not the curved trunk bar. MK 3's were the change in VIN to a modern day style VIN instead of the early FFR1459 type designation. Check to see if it has a welded in backbone with 1"x1" square tubing in the transmission tunnel area. Also whether it has a welded in curved trunk bar.

Bill S.

fastd · #18 (**permalink**) 08-12-2020, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unique427

Is the titled car in your state?
Your bio shows NC.
NCDMV has "special construction" and "replica"
catagories when submitting for a title.
It also looks like it will require a vehicle
inspection.

Just be sure you know the DMV rules
before buying so it's not hung up
in some paperwork nightmare.

FWIW, when I got inspected in NC the process wasn't very onerous. I think the process was set up to make sure olders cars weren't stolen, or fradulent, i.e. represented as something that they weren't. I didn't have an issue with my ERA which prior to NC was registered as a 1966 Ford in NJ; got registered as a 2002 ERA (? - I need to check the title).

mabbott74 · #19 (**permalink**) 08-12-2020, 12:23 PM

The car was running, inspected and titled in TN. It has been partially disassembled for paint. He has the MCO and it is titled as follows -

Year: 1965
Make: COBR
Model: ROA
Body Type: 2D

It also list Previous Title NO: MSO

I've spoken with NC DMV Tag Office and the License and Theft Bureau. I've talked with a few different people and have received at least that many different answers. It may be as simple as having it titled in my name and having the VIN inspected to having two appraisals of the car, posting a bond for the title and having a new VIN assigned. Hopefully the people I work with are in a good mood that day.

mabbott74 · #20 (**permalink**) 08-12-2020, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrmustang

It's a MK 1 I had FFR2134K which was a MK I.5 tweener, it had the transmission backbone, but not the curved trunk bar. MK 3's were the change in VIN to a modern day style VIN instead of the early FFR1459 type designation. Check to see if it has a welded in backbone with 1"x1" square tubing in the transmission tunnel area. Also whether it has a welded in curved trunk bar.

Bill S.

I'm going to assume you are right because he first took possession of the car in 1998 which fits the timeline. Anything I should know about the MK1 before jumping in?