Some Suggestions for CC

[priobe]

Hello All,

I was wondering why there is not a section for How to: I personally think this would make a great section for a lot of proven facts in regards to building these cars. I am pretty sure we could all learn from each other and would make a great source for reference when doing a project over the weekend and not too many people are logon.

Some sections might include:

Engine rebuild (Only specs for torque and agreed procedures) 302, 351, 390,427,428,460 etc.

Transmission

oil cooler

remote oil filters single / dual

wiring for MSD , gauages

fuel pump, electrical w/ relay (maybe even 2 speed pump)

bleeding brakes & clutch (single person , 2 people , etc.)

changing rear gear

changing oil



Also, I would like to suggest a final inspection section. This could aid with the completion of a self built kit. Almost like a check list before flight. This could also help with individuals that already buying a rolling chassis so they know what to look for when picking up the roller or part build.

What you guys/gals think?

Has this been suggested before?

[Bluedog]

I think it's a great idea. I know I would benefit from such a section!!

[CobraEd]

• Lug nuts
  
• Distributor caps
  
• Shift knobs
  
• Rear end covers

.

[priobe]

Thanks Bluedog for the response.
I see 30 views but only 1 response.

I am not sure how this forum works but if those of you like it I think you have to respond to get it approved.

[vettestr]

Not to put a wet blanket on request but the request is very ambitious and maybe not even possible given the size or possibilities. All of these subjects are available in a search and in many formats as well. One subject was (CHANGING OIL) and I avoided the depth of one as immense as engine rebuild. There are so many ways to look at the heading of OIL Change = weight, best filter or oil, with or without filters, dino or syn., for winter storage, prime pressure or flush lines, drain cooler, method of do it yourself or oil change joints, capacity or over filled and many more.
The formatting or collecting all under a single folder like a spread sheet would be a huge project and a valuable product when completed but I would not want only threads selected by 1 person. Those not selected may offer just what point of view I was looking for at that moment. The history and input from SO MANY is what makes this so valuable This place rocks and the people and all the ideas of so many are invaluable. Your idea is great but what a project, even if for only one manufacturer or car generation it would be huge. Then all this only makes sense if I understood your intent or question properly. Is this what you were suggesting?

[patrickt]

Great idea, and a lot of the stuff has already been written and posted. The authors could just copy their posts over to that forum at their convenience. Some of the simpler things are the ones that are needed the most. For instance, I posted a detailed message with photos showing a fellow ERA owner how to adjust his clutch fork/slave cylinder free play. He didn't know that he needed to make that adjustment to keep his throwout bearing from wearing prematurely. That's a 5 minute job, very easy, but if you've never done it you can easily "put it off" and eventually your clutch starts to misbehave. Other quicky jobs that come to mind would be how to use a vacuum gauge to adjust your carb, adjusting your timing, the advance in a MSD distributor. that U-Joint lube video that I posted (that was a biggee; got lots of hits), using a bump starter to get the lobes at the right spot and how you adjust your valves, both solid and hydraulic, how to read spark plugs. You know, now that I think more about it, even a "how to change your oil" tutorial might be pretty popular. Everyone that owns a Cobra has not been working on cars since they were a pre-teen and, at Cobra get-togethers, there are owners who readily admit that they know next to nothing about cars. They're a little hesitant to ask questions like, how to I bleed my brakes? Or how do I change my antifreeze and what is this "bubble and burp" business? Nowadays everybody has a digital camera and it's pretty easy to take shots when you're doing something on your Cobra and then post it in the how-to section. I think it's a great idea.

[priobe]

What I am suggesting is something that is based on facts. As in example engine rebuild build would not contain performance and personal perference items but a text book rebuild with key points to look out for certain items.
I understand some topics can not get to specific but a method on How to adjust mechanical rockers is pretty straight forward regardless who's product it is.

Changing oil was an example and is pretty elementry but someone who is interested in changing there oil for the first time might benefit from it.

Specific for strips and or rivits can be added. If a person so chooses to have a different variation of what is posted then they can alter the specifics.

I do believe there are certain items that can be added on a how to:
Phenloic spacers as an example for carburated engines may include part # and sources where to find odd material or parts.

I am seeing alot of the same postings and I think this can help with that. Not to mention it will be very easy to find rather than typing something in and getting the wrong result or toomany results. Then having to wait 1 mintue to alter you search.

[vettestr]

Priobe,
There is a incredible amount of knowledge and insight here. I still call my Dad from time to time for a sanity check or to bail me out. Like others here he is a great source of info for me.

[priobe]

Vettestr,
I second that!

[RICK LAKE]

Not to rain on your idea but here's the problem, All engines are not built the same, Some are built for max power, HP.Some are built for max Torque. Some are for drag racing, some for endurance roadracing. I think you get the point. The rod and main bearing clearances are all different. Alum block differ from iron block. Cast crank or steel. The blue print numbers have changed since the old days. .003 rods and .003 mains. Mine are alot tighter than that. Oil is different today than 30 years ago. No zinc and other additives. I may part of the country, the lawyers would have a field day with something in print and if the motor blewup,SUE BABY SUE. The info had better be from God's lips to your ears. Fe forumn and CC have alot of members in both. GOOD info is coming and going in both directions. You still have Old school and New school with a 40+ year old motor that mags thought was dead. BOY where they ever WRONG. I like the beehive springs in my car. New school, very few will run them, old school. 40 grams lighter and 3-400 rpm more rev without any float. They use only 140 lbs seat pressure. Not 200-400 lbs. You can put up to a .750 total lift cam in the motor and turn 7,500 rpm without float. The valves are not bouncing off the seats. The new thing is good seat to valve angles on the backcuts of the valves. proper multi back cuts can be good for another 5-15 hp. I am going with 11/32 valves in new motor, not 3/8. I looked at titanium valves, but found that they are for the intake ONLY. GM Learned this the hard way when they sold the ZO6 crate motor. Exhaust valves where breakin. The other thing is that KCR,Gessford Machine,Southern Machine and others may a living from us. They have bills and families to feed. If they gave out all the latest info and we could do this yourselves, how long could they stay in bussiness Any way, if you are spending all this time typing, your motor is not in the car and running with GOOD OIL PRESSURE Get the motor fixed. Rick L

[priobe]

Hi Rick L,

Well I understand the points you are making and I am not trying to take money away from any one here. But lets face it: Anyone that is thinking of rebuilding their motor themselves is not going to pay Gessford and the rest of the companies to do so. I also mention that it should be based on FACTS!!!!!
What these Machinist do when they build a motor is from trial and error or the changes they make they feel will IMPROVE the performance of the motor. These are there secerts and I am not asking for any one to disclose this information.
Many people here argue the fact that oil pressure should be 100 + psi but when you look in the books it states 45 - 55 psi @2000 rpm fact. Now if you (the reader) does not agree with what is stated, then you are not building a "stock" motor. Many of us do not have stock motors but we use stock specification such as torque specs., key componets within a particular engine such as pressure relief valves in 427's, bypass holes in the block of a 390 FE motor. Even today if you pick up a published book based on How to build a High Horsepower motor and insert information in which is not true I highly doubt the writer will be sued. Look at these magazine articles do you believe everything you read?

In regards to your comment that "not all engines are built the same." Well according to many manufactors that have engines for particular cars they all follow a guideline for what is called factory specifications. If you are trying to alter the specification based on the knownledge of what you have heard from someone, is that not the same as what is posted on a general website.

Again, I am speaking of FACTS not performance enhancements.

I just thought it would help all of us if we had a section where it might list How to :

Measure out your strips
Bleeding Brakes
Temporary Alignment
Adjusting valves Mechanical / Hydraulic
Wiring of a fuel pump and relay
simple tranny fixes

Also, I recall a thread way back where it suggest cheaper places where to purchase parts that bypass "our suppliers" such as FinishLine and Cobra Restorers. I think that is more along the lines of taking food from the families of those business Owners.

Hey,
I am sorry if it seems I am trying to NOT help people but if you are capable of doing the item in the How section you will not pay these companies to begin with. I am sorry but honestly there are no magical secert here.

BTW: As for my motor not in the car...... waiting on parts to put everything back together. I am bored.

[priobe]

Also,

These threads always endup off course. Like this one. The How to section will eliminate this chit chat.

Back to the topic please.

[RedCSX1]

Oh and most engines are built the same way. Spec may be different however the basics are the same. Stick with FE and Small black Ford at first. Like an area for spec and maybe even part numbers like gaskets and where to purchase. I would certainly help where I could since i have documented most of my build.

One other area would be clutch set up and clutch master cylinder rebuild.
external vs internal thowout

[priobe]

I like the ideas!!!!

Who do we need to notify to turn this talk into action.

What is the procedure?

[computerworks]

All the suggestions made are read.... we can't do every one, but they are evaluated.

You know, we have a forum now for Shop Talk.

Anyone who wants can now start a thread, like the KMP Manual Thread, and document the steps for, say, an oil change... ... with narrative and pictures.

...without waiting for a special forum.

Anyone qualified to create a multi-post thread, as a step-by-step how-to on a specific topic...with narrative and detailed pictures, and wants it posted without dialog or interruptions, just contact me.

[Roscoe]

Ron,

I'd like to see the 'Best Phillips Screwdriver' thread

Sorry,
Roscoe

[RICK LAKE]

The way to adjust valves could be done 3 different ways. With the motor running, with the motor hot, with the motor cold. There has been a couple of threads alone on valve adjustment the correct way. Do all of them work, to a degree, will it get the job done,yes. I run a hydro cam with anti pump lifters, (crane) once the lifter is pumped you can't adjust the rocker, if you tighten the valve will open and stay that way after 20 minutes of running at 2k rpm. Only way with just this lifter I have found is to R&R each lifter and pull apart to get the oil out of the housing. Reassembly dry and adjust rocker until the push rod stops spinning and a 1/4 turn on the adjuster and lock down. You asked about oil pressure for an FE motor. To me the weakest point is the rod bearings, they are small. Under NORMAL driving conditions and regular 3 k oil changes, this motor should last 100K. Will the 10 psi for every 1k rpm work, questionable. I wouldn't have any of my motors idling at 10 psi, min is 25-30 for me. 100 psi spring is what I use in my motors, it is hard on the distributor gear, cam shaft, timing chain, and end lash for the mainshaft in the distributor. Cold start about 130-135psi. Oil has changed in the last 5-10 years. Beginning of the year, guys where wiping out cam shafts right and left. Not just the top builders, good mechanic at home. a couple of different ideas where covered, they all could help solve the problem but the cause was not determined. Rod bolts are torque to a spec of 52-58 lbs. The new way is to use the stretch bolt method and get a .006" on the rod bolt. The spec with a tork wrench is about 65-68 lbs. 10 lbs more than spec. Both are FACTS, which one is correct???? Been building motors since the mid 70's alot has changed. Something basic like valve adjustments. I try and give out the best and latest info I can to help anyone. If I don't know I tell you. Alot of machinist rebuild a motor to spec like you said. Alot of guys with FE motors will tell you if there are not 5-10 FE blocks in the shop, go somewhere else. As far as buying parts, it's the same thing, if you buy the part from the car company that makes the car,99% of the time the part fits perfect, If you buy from outside the part is to fit many different manufactured cobras. They are not built all the same way, you can make this part fit with work. Quality of the part is alot of time the price differents. I try and save money on my car too, but have found that going cheap doesn't always work. After 28+ years of dealership work, there are still alot of grey areas. If it was easy everyone could fit there own car. 50+ computors in the 07's and up cars and trucks. 200 amp alt's in them too. 48 volt system may be just around the corner O'boy. And you wonder why the average mechinic is 35-37. Me 50. Motors are a living, breathing thing, build 10 the same way and one will be better than the rest. Fact. Rick Lake