SPF Slave Cylinder Help.

[jhv48]

OK, I've adjusted and bled the system to no avail.

The clutch is just barely dragging when the pedal is fully depressed. Causing tough shifting into first and lots of noise in reverse. Another 1/4 of an inch of travel by the slave cylinder is all that is needed. And Yes, I have already adjusted the rod from the pedal to the M/C. Both cylinders are moving the full length of their travel. Both are 7/8 inch units.

I have the slave with no adjusting nuts on the shaft that comes out of the slave. It just has a bulb on the head and that rests against a depression in the clutch fork. Thus, no external adjusting of the rod is possible. Is there any way to put a shim between the fork and the rod or to put a spacer between the rod and the piston in the the slave to gain additional length? Or, can I replace the rod with another type that is threaded so I can have some sort of adjustment?

Finally, If I replace the slave with a similar unit, how do I keep all the brake fluid from running out of the M/C and the lines when I remove the line to the existing slave? All lines from the master to the slave are metal, so I can't clamp them. If I clamp the rubber line from the fluid reservoir to the M/C, will I then drain the M/C and have to bleed that too when I replace the slave?

Any other solutions you guys have come up with to this problem? The slave and M/C are both 7/8 inch, and the slave is travelling the full length of its stroke. It just isn't enough to fully depress the clutch.

And finally, the car has a Quiktime bell housing and a TKO600 trans with a pusher slave. Seems to be lined up OK with the shifting fork.

[Blittleton]

JHV,

A couple of things you can try. First is to remove your non adjustable and install a threaded rod, 3/8 all thread grade 8. I would see if your clutch is slipping as well, your clutch maybe getting worn. Or you can buy one of my setups and it would work perfectly with your setup. Take a look. I removed the boot to show the rod position.

[madmaxx]

to prevent the fluid from escaping put some saran wrap under the lid of your remote reservoir and screw back on.

I have a stock slave and it works perfect will plenty of travel. do you have the right slave cylinder???

[Got the Bug]

Jim,

How did you determine that there is an additional 1/4" of travel in the clutch fork and that you're not getting full engagement? For some reason, they installed the same type of slave on my car (I've also got a Roush, TKO600, and a Quicktime), but it has worked fine so far.

[jhv48]

Originally Posted by Got the Bug

Jim,

How did you determine that there is an additional 1/4" of travel in the clutch fork and that you're not getting full engagement? For some reason, they installed the same type of slave on my car (I've also got a Roush, TKO600, and a Quicktime), but it has worked fine so far.

When I adjusted the M/C rod in the footwell as tight as I could (no freeplay whatsoever), then the grinding stopped, but just barely!

I'm going to try putting a thick washer between the fork and the end of the rod to get some additional length and see if that cures it. If so, then I will fabricate a longer rod and use lock nuts to adjust and secure it to the fork.

[PANAVIA]

I am not a big fan of these cylinders.

-- but I have had great luck with the wilwood pull type.

They are just about perfectly sized for most ford applications. -- working on a FE version now.

look at my t56 thread for pics. --

I would measure the distance traveled for full compression or expansion, and see if you are getting FULL travel of the cylinder.

Steve

[jhv48]

So,

I replaced the slave and bled the system. Trans still grinds in reverse no matter what gear you put it in first.

So now I got a 3/8 inch threaded rod and some washers and nuts. Going to make an adjustable push rod for the slave cylinder.

If this doesn't work, it's back to the installer.

[ou812545]

Jim,
My car has a similar issue except it goes into reverse fine when it's cold, but not when it warms up.

Keep us posted if your fix works.

Dan

[Blittleton]

many of the wilwoods pull types on Both SPF and BDR's were leaking after short miles due to improper alignment. Not just the pull types but the push as well. With a proper bracket design seems to help alot of the fixes for the push.

[madmaxx]

Exactly mine would weep and once i modified the bracket to get it perpindicular no leakage in over a year, not a drop.

Originally Posted by Blittleton

many of the wilwoods pull types on Both SPF and BDR's were leaking after short miles due to improper alignment. Not just the pull types but the push as well. With a proper bracket design seems to help alot of the fixes for the push.

[jhv48]

I'm the one doing the weeping!

I'm going to install the rod tonight and will let you know tomorrow if it helped. Should be able to adjust all freeplay out of the system.

If that doesn't do it, I'm stumped!

[Rick Parker]

Blittleton has given you some good advice. If it was working OK before, that would indicate the sizing ratios are acceptable. When the rod is adjusted you must have a very small amount of freeplay to prevent the T/O Bearing from contacting the release levers on the clutch pressure plate. You may find you have some bad cup seals inside the master or slave cylinders.

[jhv48]

Update.

I fabricated a 3/8 inch threaded rod so that I could adjust the clutch play at the fork.

Adjusted all of the play out and then added about 1/4 inch of additional tension so that the fork was starting to compress a little bit.

Fired up the car, still grinds like hell in reverse. All other gears are smooth as silk. Clutch engages a little more than halfway out from the floor.

NOW WHAT? I'm out of ideas!

[madmaxx]

always go to a foward gear just before reverse. for example, push clutch in, shift to third then shift to reverse holding clutch in all the time.

[Calbullet]

x2 on the shifting into a forward gear first. also don't put too much preload on the t/o bearing, if it always on load, it will wear out quicker.

[jhv48]

I have shifted into every gear prior to trying reverse. Still grinds.

[scootter]

Sound's familiar.
I seem to always have problems shifting into first and down shifting to third on the track. Made a heat shield for the clutch lines, changed the slave since it was leaking, had to make a new push rod since mine broke?????? Took my car for a ride the other day, and was getting flustered with the way it shifts. Haven't put it up on the stands yet to recheck the adjustment. I did have mine loosen up a while back even though I have a crushed lock nut on mine.
I have also changed the shift tower, shift lever and changed the pin position to the upper hole on the pedal since mine is a bear to push in. Since I did that, I get less travel so I had to raise the pedal a bit to get more travel.
Scott

[jhv48]

I'm beginning to understand why some of these cars have automatics!

[madmaxx]

Something is being missed. I have a TKO 600 with standard slave and bracket and it works perfect. The only issue I had was weaping because the bracket was not alinged with fork.

what transmission do you have? where did you get your bracket? Are you using the Isuzu slave cylinder which comes with SPF's. If you push in on the clutch can someone push you down the street? If so it is not your clutch.

[jhv48]

I took it to a local mechanic that does most of my normal engine work and showed him what I had done. He kept it the whole day and whenI picked it up said he couldn't get reverse to grind once and that the clutch was not dragging at all.

I got in it to drive home and started the engine with the clutch pedal to the floor, shifted into 4th and then slowly tried reverse..........GRIND.

What am I doing wrong?