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06-04-2010, 04:50 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: San Jose,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF #1436 514
Posts: 1,488
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Not Ranked
I used an M12 about 5" long ( whatever that is in metric). I used a flat washer at each end with an oblong lock nut. Not the crappy nylon lock nut!
Scott
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10-21-2010, 07:22 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Roswell,
GA
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance, 427R, SPO2561
Posts: 30
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Not Ranked
What is the length of the new longer bolt?
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10-21-2010, 10:23 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: San Jose,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF #1436 514
Posts: 1,488
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Not Ranked
It it a M12 1.75 pitch 150mm long. It is 6" long with a 4 1/2 shoulder so it goes all the way through the bracket.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cap-screws/=9dpbuq 91280A749 this is the part number. the link doesn't go to the right spot.
Scott |
10-22-2010, 08:17 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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Not Ranked
How about a pic of the broken bolt from the fractured end and also the broken end( if you have it)
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10-22-2010, 11:21 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: San Jose,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF #1436 514
Posts: 1,488
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Not Ranked
There are pics on the first page. I held the broken one up by the bracket so you can tell were it broke in relation to the bracket, and also were the new bolt would come out to.
Let me know if those work for you. I have more pics.
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10-22-2010, 12:43 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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Not Ranked
No---I want to see the end of the bolt for the fracture pattern
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10-22-2010, 01:08 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Queen Creek,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Midstates, Vette suspension, Baer 6P brakes, 540 cid Chevy, Haltech Fuel Injection
Posts: 906
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Not Ranked
You need to be using a close-tolerance NAS Shear-Bolt in this application. They are available from Pegasus Racing and maybe McMaster-Carr among other places. They can be obtained with lock-wire holes in the head and you can get lock-wire nuts for them... I would just use some loctite red, but your choice.
__________________
E. Wood
ItBites
10.69 @ 129.83mph - on pump gas and street tires
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10-22-2010, 01:35 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: San Jose,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF #1436 514
Posts: 1,488
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Not Ranked
This is the best I have. Not sure if I threw the bolt away or not.
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10-22-2010, 01:43 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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Not Ranked
your bolt broke from overstressing the last thread probably from over tightening and the bolt being at the last thread(too long) not shear!!!
This part does not even need a bolt, a trailer hitch receiver pin with a hairpin would do the job just fine. You are overtightening a fastner trying to collapse two members of a very stout piece which only needs the center tube snugged up----
Last edited by Jerry Clayton; 10-22-2010 at 01:46 PM..
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10-22-2010, 01:51 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: San Jose,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF #1436 514
Posts: 1,488
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Not Ranked
Not exactly sure what you mean by to long? The original bolt only had a nut and washer on it. The threads stopped inside the center bushing.
Scott
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10-22-2010, 01:57 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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Not Ranked
what I mean is that the bolt was over tightened which will cause it to break at the last thread----
Yoi do not need a overly tight bolt there---bolt tightness will only maybe keep the bolt in place
A pin such as the pin in a Reese receiver type trailer hitch with a hairpin clip will do everything you need in that location
You do not need a bolt---even a piece of thin wall tubing will do if you want to save weight for racing
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