Oil leak investigation

Voyager · #1 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 06:19 AM

Have been chasing an oil leak on my new SPF since delivery. After cleaning, nothing drips while sitting in the garage. However, after each ride, oil can be found scattered throughout the underside of the chassis, resulting in multiple small drip locations. Following the oil forward, it seems to originate near the remote oil filter adapter plate attached to the block of my 408 Keith Craft engine. Have been cleaning and tweaking the multiple fittings in the area for awhile now, but the leak persists.

Looking for another suspect. Right next to the oil filter adapter is a small plastic hose attached to a small fitting on the block. Guessing it is the hose that goes to the oil pressure gauge.

That may be the source of my leak. Anyone know how it is assembled (a schematic?). I can barely see it, let alone get a wrench on it. Hose appears to be going into an adapter, which is then screwed into a fitting in the block. Assume they are part of the Superformance assembly kit.

Thanks,
Bob

JBCOBRA · #2 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 07:04 AM

Those fittings have a little 3/16th's compression fitting in there. Unless they are in there just right, they leak. Been there done that a couple few times

I got a bunch of them at Sears in the plumbing department. If i remember correctly, part of the trick was not to tighten really hard?
Hope that helps

zrayr · #3 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 07:18 AM

overtightening will definately cause the compression fitting to leak. Once it has started to leak due to overtightening it is ruined and will never seal. If you have slack in the line you can snip off the ends and get a new ferrule and try it again.

One alternative would be to get a braided steel line (best) or a copper line. However the copper line can crack & can be over tightened just like the plastic line.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-3229/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-150856/

Z.

madmaxx · #4 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 07:41 AM

Do a search under oil pressure fitting in superformance. I listed the part numbers you need which can be obtained at ACE hardware. If you have the pos push in connection that is your problem. In order to remove you will will need to take a 5/16" box end 12 pt wrench and cut a slit so you can remove without removing fuel pump. Once again do a search under spf and you will find a post listing details.

Archrms · #5 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 07:52 AM

I agree with the above posts regarding the plastic oil pressure line/fitting as being the suspect. Mine does the same thing, and cutting the line/readjusting the fitting is only good for a few hundred miles before it starts leaking again. There is a thread listing the required parts for a braided steel line and fittings, which I am in the process of ordering for myself to eliminate the plastic hose completely.

JBCOBRA · #6 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Archrms

I agree with the above posts regarding the plastic oil pressure line/fitting as being the suspect. Mine does the same thing, and cutting the line/readjusting the fitting is only good for a few hundred miles before it starts leaking again. There is a thread listing the required parts for a braided steel line and fittings, which I am in the process of ordering for myself to eliminate the plastic hose completely.

I think, practice makes perfect

after dicking around with it, mine has not leaked for 10,000 miles. Knock on wood.

zrayr · #7 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JBCOBRA

I think, practice makes perfect

after dicking around with it, mine has not leaked for 10,000 miles. Knock on wood.

mine (with plastic line) has stayed leak free for about 12,000 miles so far. But I still will be going to the braided steel line the next time I have some down time.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-3229/

Z.

JBCOBRA · #8 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 09:11 AM

The braided line looks like a great bet. But i am not messing with it unless it starts leaking. I changed the oil temp gauge once. What a pain in the arse. Needed a frikin' chiropractor after that. LOL

madmaxx · #9 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 09:17 AM

It will start leaking and at the worst possible time!!!!! The braided line is a good solution during inital build. You risk pulling something loose, screwing up the oil gauge etc running the new line in addition most of you old farts might have an annurism laying on your head, LOL!!! Go to ACE buy the $3.95 in fittings and be done with it forever and ever and ever and ever. Lets not make a mountain out of mole hill.

madmaxx · #10 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 09:20 AM

Well, I look under my car this morning and there is a puddle of oil, Start looking around and it appeared to be the oil pressure gauge fitting. I grap the plastic line which felt loose and it FALLS out of the fitting, how it never blew out when driving is a miracle.

I agree the hydraulic line is the best solution if you have time to wait. If you do not want to wait and do not want to run a new line the only part you need is a 3/16 com x 1/8 MPT connection available at ACE hardware for $2.99. part number 41235 The UPC is 0 94857 08160 2. I could not believe how many ferrule and tubing connections ACE had!!!!

The tool you need is as described earlier 7/16 12 pt with a slot cut out, worked PERFECT, thanks JHV48. Total repair time 15 minutes. If you have your coil mounted directly above it remove for easy access.

If you have a SPF with the POS push-in fitting you are operating on borrowed time. Replace imediately. The plastic tubing is pretty stout and with the aforementioned compression fitting it is a permanent repair and you do not have to pull the old gauge or route through the firewall etc.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by madmaxx; 11-07-2010 at 09:56 PM..

JBCOBRA · #11 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 09:23 AM

"in addition most of you old farts might have an annurism laying on your head, LOL!!!"

thats why I am not F'ing with it. Takes 3 minutes to change the ferrell. Keep spares in my road tool kit

now that I have extras, I will most likely never need them.

Excaliber · #12 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 10:10 AM

I had the same problem with the plastic oil line/fittings leak. Couldn't get it to stop, replaced the entire line with a copper tube. Problem solved.

Voyager · #13 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 11:12 AM

Awesome.

Off to Ace tonight and will cut a slot in one of my 7/16 12 pts.

Thanks,

Bob

Got the Bug · #14 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 01:53 PM

Hopefully the Ace parts will do the trick. I tried to find a new pressure fiiting for my SPF, but the hose appeared to be some non standard size. I went with the braided line and never looked back. Search "oil pressure line" under the SPF forum and you'll find the parts list that works.

madmaxx · #15 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 03:56 PM

The line is 3/16" tons of connections and ferrules. The tubing is actually pretty heavy duty compared to others I have seen. The only problem with 3/16 and smaller is they do not make the brass insert to put in the tubing, it is just to small. Assemble push tube in tight and square and tighten snugly. Start engine, if leaks tighten more. I did some testing (as usual) LOL, and cranked the crap out of it, tubing never cut but ferrel extruded out cap. Just snug and you will be go to go.

PANAVIA · #16 (**permalink**) 11-27-2010, 02:53 PM

Keep in mind that the back of the gauge has a threaded fitting on the back, on the smiths repro gauge, it is a UNF thread and not American NPT, on the AutoMeter gauge it is a NPT fitting.

The pipe thread in. A standard ford small block / Windsor is a NPT fitting either 3/8" or 1/4" NPT at the block, or pipe from the block.

We mandate steel braided in our cobras, the plastic oil line is bogus.

Steve

Voyager · #17 (**permalink**) 11-29-2010, 10:56 AM

Per Madmaxx's post, picked up some compression fittings (part number 41235) at ACE. Due to the holidays, did not get a chance to install yet.

However prior to taking some holiday guests on an obligatory cobra ride, I used a 12mm flare nut wrench to gently snug the outer fitting.

Guess what? No puddle under the car the next morning. Will clean everything up real good and confirm on next ride.

Next comes the leaking slave cylinder.

madmaxx · #18 (**permalink**) 11-29-2010, 03:40 PM

Lightly pull out on the tubing, I mean lightly, if it pulls out replace asap before it falls out while you are driving.

jhv48 · #19 (**permalink**) 11-29-2010, 03:54 PM

Get the braided line with the correct fittings from BAT and be done with it.

I tried all the above and was never completely confident.

Bought the braided line and fittings from BAT and not a drop lost in 6 months.

CWizard · #20 (**permalink**) 11-29-2010, 10:07 PM

Good discussion. Just a couple of technical comments, if I may.
FWIW, the stock oil pressure line on SPFs is nylon, not plastic. But that's only a minor point. As has been mentioned above, replacing it, and it's compression fitting, with something more reliable is wise.
The fitting on the back of my Smiths oil pressure gauge is a British (BSP) thread. I assume they all are, but maybe not. Be sure you have the correct fitting to match it, lest you have hot oil spurting onto your legs.
Finally, if you use a steel braided hose, take care to isolate it from the wiring under the dash. The braid is abrasive, and if in contact with wires can eventually wear through insulation with unhappy results.