SPF CV Joint Boot Leaking

[Bob In Ct]

Recently I discovered some leakage from the left inner CV boot on my early SPF (Ford 8.8 IRS). A few years ago the right inner boot also had a leak and I fixed it using a standard CV clamp and a special tool I got at NAPA. I would fix this guy in the same way except the location of the boot puts the clamp in a place where it is surrounded by the frame. Not all sides are built the same way I guess.

Any suggestions on clamping this boot? Right now it has a nylon tie holding it tight but a recent test ride is showing some leakage. Does anyome make a crimping tool that can be used from the side? Any thoughts?

Bob

[Blas]

Bob,
Send me a photo of the installation tool you have from NAPA or a part number and I'll look it up.. I have an installation tool for the bands, maybe it will work for you, if so I'll mail it to you....I did the inner bands on mine. If I understand you correctly, you need to do the outer band (larger)
Blas (email below)

[Silverback51]

I don't know your car number, but some of the earlier cars had an issue with the clamp being to close to the frame member and it would cause the clamp to break all the time. Replaced mine twice before a member here told me about removing the aft differental bracket and moving the holes up .50 inches.

Pulled mine off, and had a friend plug weld the old holes and then machined new ones up .50 inches. Have not had any issues since.

[Bob In Ct]

Blas:
I've got car SPF642. The boot that's leaking is the one closest to the differential on the driver's side. There is frame metal all around it. The crimping tool I have (K-D No 424) works fine on the passenger side (both boots) since nothing is in the way and I can place the tool 90 degrees to the clamp (and axle). On the driver's side I have to go in from the side and thus the grief.

A 1/4 or 5/16 worm clamp would solve the problem but I have not been able to find one anywhere.

Notice the nylon tie currently doing the job.

Bob

[Cashburn]

Nothing here? McMaster-Carr

[PANAVIA]

I love mcmaster-carr -- they are the exclusive bolt supplier from my Daytona Coupe.

[xlr8or]

Why not just pop the axle out and do it on the work bench?

[Bob In Ct]

That's what a lot have suggested. Unfortunately I don't have a lift, the tools required or the ability to simply "pop the axle out". Nick on "The Island" didn't think popping out the axle was that easy either. I was just hoping to install a new clamp.

Bob

[bobcowan]

Get two large hose clamps - nothing fancy, just whatever they have at Autozone (or wherever). Join them together to make one large large clamp. Install them with the worm drives 180* apart, for a perfect balance. Mines been that way for about 5 years.

On my car, I left them slightly loose, and used standard axle grease around the seal area. Before I did that, the boots would twist and tear on the track. I went through a few boots before I figured that out (what a mess!).

[Silverback51]

At least on mine, there was not enough room to use hose clamps. That was why I ended up revising the rear mount so I could have enough room for the standard clamp. Mine was so close the standard clamp would hit the frame and come off.

[Bob In Ct]

I don't have an issue with using 2 hose clamps (or even 3 or 4) but where does one find something narrower than 1/2 inch?

Bob

[Silverback51]

McMaster-Carr has 5/16 wide clamps.

[Bob In Ct]

Found the clamps I needed at -

Home | Fastenal

Bob