Braided oil pressure line upgrade

Archrms · #1 (**permalink**) 09-22-2011, 06:53 AM

Got tired of the constantly leaking nylon to brass fitting at the engine block, so I ordered a braided steel line from BAT. I got the entire line and both terminal ends assembled by BAT. I will have to find my paperwork for all of the part numbers.

Access to the guage is easy once the speedometer was removed. Diconnected the nylon line from the back of the guage and pulled it through the firewall. I removed the grommet at the firewall and was able to pull the line with the terminal fitting through the existing opening even with three other lines passing through the same hole. Access is tight as it is in the upper driver side corner of the fire wall below the cowl and under top of the fender. There is a large bundle of wires that pass through the firewall directly in front of the hole with the oil pressure line, but I was still able to access the other lines without removing the electric connectors.

I connected the new braided steel line to the guage and routed the other end under the dash and through the firewall, same as the nylon line. The new terminal connector is actually smaller than the stock unit, so was much easier to get through the firewall opening.

Next step is to finish routing the other end of the braided steel line through the engine compartment and connect to the block, which I hope to get to one of these nights. So far it has been much easier than I anticipated. I will try to take some pics before I finish, while everything is still open.

DougD · #2 (**permalink**) 09-22-2011, 07:26 AM

That's a nice upgrade. Should be original equipment for all of us.

Those cheap nylon lines are nothing but trouble waiting to happen.

Make sure you stay away from those exhaust headers.

elmariachi · #3 (**permalink**) 09-22-2011, 08:03 AM

If, once you start the car, you find the pressure reading to be spiked too high, simply kill the engine, crack the fitting at the back of the gauge to purge the air, and retighten. May need to do this a couple times to get the air out.

Calbullet · #4 (**permalink**) 09-22-2011, 08:34 AM

make sure you secure the line under the dashboard. braided line can act like sandpaper on wires. also make sure to insulate around electrical components. putting a rubber sleeve around the line helps

STL Mark · #5 (**permalink**) 09-22-2011, 09:42 AM

I also did the BAT kit - nice stuff. Leak gone.

madmaxx · #6 (**permalink**) 09-22-2011, 01:19 PM

do not bleed the oil line, it will not be necessary. you want some air in the line to dampen spikes and lessen wear on the gauge.

Blas · #7 (**permalink**) 09-22-2011, 01:50 PM

You don't want oil in the gauge...if you get some in there that is a problem ...

elmariachi · #8 (**permalink**) 09-22-2011, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madmaxx

do not bleed the oil line, it will not be necessary. you want some air in the line to dampen spikes and lessen wear on the gauge.

My Smiths gauge showed 100 psi until I released the pressure at the fitting, which then restored it to the normal 60. No oil in the gauge now or ever.

vatdevil · #9 (**permalink**) 09-22-2011, 06:49 PM

Just did the same upgrade on mine using a kit from Autometer. Ran it up the front of the block the on top of the manifold and thru the second driver side hole in the firewall. No leaks and so much cleaner looking.

Got the Bug · #10 (**permalink**) 09-22-2011, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Archrms

Got tired of the constantly leaking nylon to brass fitting at the engine block, so I ordered a braided steel line from BAT. I got the entire line and both terminal ends assembled by BAT. I will have to find my paperwork for all of the part numbers.

Access to the guage is easy once the speedometer was removed. Diconnected the nylon line from the back of the guage and pulled it through the firewall. I removed the grommet at the firewall and was able to pull the line with the terminal fitting through the existing opening even with three other lines passing through the same hole. Access is tight as it is in the upper driver side corner of the fire wall below the cowl and under top of the fender. There is a large bundle of wires that pass through the firewall directly in front of the hole with the oil pressure line, but I was still able to access the other lines without removing the electric connectors.

I connected the new braided steel line to the guage and routed the other end under the dash and through the firewall, same as the nylon line. The new terminal connector is actually smaller than the stock unit, so was much easier to get through the firewall opening.

Next step is to finish routing the other end of the braided steel line through the engine compartment and connect to the block, which I hope to get to one of these nights. So far it has been much easier than I anticipated. I will try to take some pics before I finish, while everything is still open.

Upgrade is well worth it. As Blas pointed out in the past, there's a little copper washer that needs to be replaced on the gauge side.

Here's a link to the parts list:

Best way to access back of oil pressure gauge

Archrms · #11 (**permalink**) 09-23-2011, 08:06 AM

I've seen the posts by Blas in the past regarding the little copper washer. When I pulled the line off, it remained on the threads of the gauge. I removed it and put it in a safe place before it got lost. Its so small I can see how it can easily get lost if you are not aware of it.

maxum_101 · #12 (**permalink**) 09-23-2011, 09:17 AM

[quote=Archrms;1152596]Got tired of the constantly leaking nylon to brass fitting at the engine block, so I ordered a braided steel line from BAT. I got the entire line and both terminal ends assembled by BAT. I will have to find my paperwork for all of the part numbers.

What is "BAT" and can you post the part #s
whats the cost on this upgrade?

this is something that should be upgraded before it gives you problems.

Archrms · #13 (**permalink**) 09-23-2011, 09:39 AM

"BAT" is short for British American Transfer if I recall. I will dig out the paperwork this weekend and will post current part #s and prices.

Trueoo7 · #14 (**permalink**) 09-23-2011, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vatdevil

Just did the same upgrade on mine using a kit from Autometer. Ran it up the front of the block the on top of the manifold and thru the second driver side hole in the firewall. No leaks and so much cleaner looking.

Do you by chance have a part number, I was told it was a 4AN fitting.

Got the Bug · #15 (**permalink**) 09-23-2011, 07:57 PM

[quote=maxum_101;1152799]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Archrms

Got tired of the constantly leaking nylon to brass fitting at the engine block, so I ordered a braided steel line from BAT. I got the entire line and both terminal ends assembled by BAT. I will have to find my paperwork for all of the part numbers.

What is "BAT" and can you post the part #s
whats the cost on this upgrade?

this is something that should be upgraded before it gives you problems.

The parts list is included in my previous post.

Archrms · #16 (**permalink**) 09-29-2011, 06:56 AM

Completed the connections and routing this past weekend. I had ordered the 6'-0" length of hose as suggested in previous posts, and it is just the right length - barely. I think another six inches would have given me enough slack to route and secure it more to my liking. Another foot would have been more than enough, no matter how you route it.

Also, don't forget to wrap the braided steel line where it comes into contact with other elements (frame rails, inner fender wells, etc.). I used electrical tape under the dash, and rubber hose (split and zip tied around the steel line at the ends to prevent it from slipping) to prevent damage to the frame rail and inner fender.

The 90º fitting at the back of the gauge is mandatory for the SPF. However, they can install whatever type of fitting you need for your application at the block end (90, 45 or straight).

Cost for assembly of the terminal ends is up to $10.00, but the overall cost, including shipping and handling, was just under $65.00 - well worth it.

maxum_101 · #17 (**permalink**) 09-29-2011, 08:54 AM

when you say the 6 foot length was barely long enough... was that routing the new line the exact same way the old line was . across the front of motor to the driver side fender area and back towards the dash into the fire wall and then to the guage?
was that how it was laid out?

Archrms · #18 (**permalink**) 09-29-2011, 10:54 AM

Same route as the old line - through the existing drivers side firewall grommet, along the underside of the front fender, then down the inner fender well to the front/drivers side of the block. My line terminates at the adaptor plate for the remote oil filter lines at the lower front/drivers side of the (427) block.

If you have to go across the front of the block to the passenger side (per your post), you may want to add more length.

Archrms · #19 (**permalink**) 09-29-2011, 10:59 AM

Same route as the old line - through the existing drivers side firewall grommet, along the underside of the front fender, then down the inner fender well to the front/drivers side of the block. My line terminates at the adaptor plate for the remote oil filter lines at the lower front/drivers side of the (427) block.

If you have to go across the front of the block to the passenger side (per your post), you may want to add more length.