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Larry |
The propane and the breaker bar did it! The heat softened the locktite enough to let the breaker bar do its job. Now I have to take a look at what is the next step. Upper control arm? Followed by lower? Then pull the up right off the half shaft? Tell me that's it...
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you have an email.....Blas
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On 2816 i found that the splines on the back of the hub would bottom out before the proper torque was applied to the bearings. we machined out about .040 of the splins in the back of the hub so that the assembly would tighten up correctly. without doing this the bearings never received the right preload and would start to separate and loosen up in the housing.
In the picture you can see the counter bore. Once we did this not any more wheel bearing problems. http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/IMG_0457.jpg |
Blas and 2Torqued, thanks for your input. I'm calling it a night, I need my sleep. The axle nuts are off and the upper control arm is disconnected. If someone can explain how the lower control disconnects I would appreciate it. I removed the two bolts that connect the lower control to the up right but there has to be something else holding the lower on. I'm too tired to figure it out... Good night
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Remove the set screw on the bottom. it goes into a key way in the lower control arm shaft.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...d/IMG_0481.jpg |
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Many thanks to you guys for the help. I came home from work and was able to disconnect the lower control arm (Thanks 2Torqued for the pic) The assembly is now off the car and I will be getting the new bearing pressed in tomorrow.
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I dropped the assembly off at my mechanic's shop, however, he said he wouldn't be able to get to it immediately. He did comment that he didn't like the amount of wobble or play that was present in the hub. He said he would check everything out but feels that the hub may have an issue. I'll be keeping my fingers crossed.
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Mark IV, I was reading your comments again and had two questions. First, when I removed my axle nut and jam nut there was no washer behind them. Is there supposed to be a washer behind the axle nut? Second, my car doesn't fall in the range of chassis numbers that had the hub issue, however, the hub with the bad bearing did have that same movement that you describe. How am I to be sure that my hub doesn't need that .040 of material removed? Is it better to just replace the hub should there be any question? What does a new hub sell for?
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I would need to look up the hub cost but machining the hub will be less costly for sure.
Email or PM me and I'll send you a diagram. |
have your shop slide the hub on the spline and check the distance between the two surfaces and then check that measurement to the stack of bearings. The bearings should be larger than the gap in the hub assembly. As to the washer, I don't think mine had a washer ether .
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Check my gallery for a cross section of the rear upright...Hope this helps
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I just got word from my mechanic. The hub is bad. He said that the part of the hub that contacts the bearing is worn. He thinks either the hub was not machined properly or the axle nut was too tight. Either way, he suggested replacing the hub. My questions now are is the hub a Ford part or a SPF part and what it's going to cost?
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Just an FYI because I've seen this happen before, when the hub is pressed into the new bearing, the inner race is what needs to be pressed against. W/O doing so, the inner race can seperate in the center and it's gets sloppy.
Larry |
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Mark IV, email was sent...
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I just returned from the shop that is pressing the wheel bearing. The mechanic showed me the failed parts and explained why they failed. The hub diameter was too small. The hub was spinning inside the inner race of the bearing instead of the bearing spinning. The wear on the hub was clear proof that when it was originally pressed together, it never seated correctly. Anyone ever see this issue before?
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Chatterbox. My car is 2666. just bought it 3 weeks ago an have been working through the process to get it on the road. I have a lift in the garage and noticed last night that there is a good bit of black grease that seems to have been flung out of the drivers side axle. Is this what you experiences. While I can work on cars, that job seems to be on of the ones will take me 3 weeks working an hour a night on. (and cursing and cursing) So I am going to take mine to the local dealer. Hopefully they will have the parts. Seems like if there are a number of cars near our production run, it may be a production issue for sure.
JB |
Bannon, sorry for the delayed response. I haven't logged in for quite some time. I first new I had a problem when I heard the noise coming from the wheel assembly. A quick peek at the assembly showed minor amounts of black grease in between the halfshaft end and the upright. I jacked the wheel off the ground and found that I had side to side play with the wheel. The new bearing and hub fixed the problem. I'm not sure why or how it failed so quick but the the replacement is holding up just fine.
Should you have the same problem and plan to fix it yourself, know that the wheel bearing is a common stock Ford bearing (the same that fits a Windstar minivan) and the hub is from Ford Racing part listed under kit car hub. I hope this helps. If you need the part #s or anything else, do not hesitate to ask. |
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