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10-05-2011, 10:41 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Tucson,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chatterbox5333
I hosed the nut down with PB Blaster last night and again this morning. Tonight I will heat the nut and use an impact wrench on it. I also picked up the new axle nut from Ford. It is the stacked nut encased in sheetmetal type. Is one enough or should I reassemble using a second as a jam nut?
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I've seen that done before but the Ford nut is designed to not back off. The stack acts as jamb nuts, so I think it should only have the new nuts installed one per side.
Larry
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Alba gu brąth
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10-05-2011, 05:08 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance Ford 393
Posts: 32
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The propane and the breaker bar did it! The heat softened the locktite enough to let the breaker bar do its job. Now I have to take a look at what is the next step. Upper control arm? Followed by lower? Then pull the up right off the half shaft? Tell me that's it...
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10-05-2011, 06:37 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF#0760
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you have an email.....Blas
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Wiring Diagrams: SPF MKII, MKIII, GT40, CSX7000, CSX8000, Corvette Grand Sport, and Shelby Sebring, Bondurant & Cinema Tribute Cars.
Owners Manuals: SPF MKII, CSX7000, CSX8000, Sebring, Bondurant, Cinema Tribute Cars $ GT40s..
Large, easy to read and trace schematics with part numbers, wire colors, wire gauge, fuses, and electrical upgrade information. Trouble-shooting and replacement part numbers for those roadside repair adventures.
SPFWiringDiagrams@Comcast.net
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10-05-2011, 07:46 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF MKIII, Roush 427RRRR
Posts: 29
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On 2816 i found that the splines on the back of the hub would bottom out before the proper torque was applied to the bearings. we machined out about .040 of the splins in the back of the hub so that the assembly would tighten up correctly. without doing this the bearings never received the right preload and would start to separate and loosen up in the housing.
In the picture you can see the counter bore. Once we did this not any more wheel bearing problems.
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"If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you finally have enough horsepower". Mark Donohue
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10-05-2011, 08:07 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance Ford 393
Posts: 32
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Blas and 2Torqued, thanks for your input. I'm calling it a night, I need my sleep. The axle nuts are off and the upper control arm is disconnected. If someone can explain how the lower control disconnects I would appreciate it. I removed the two bolts that connect the lower control to the up right but there has to be something else holding the lower on. I'm too tired to figure it out... Good night
Last edited by chatterbox5333; 10-05-2011 at 08:09 PM..
Reason: correction
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10-05-2011, 08:27 PM
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CC Member
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Cobra Make, Engine: SPF MKIII, Roush 427RRRR
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Remove the set screw on the bottom. it goes into a key way in the lower control arm shaft.
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"If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you finally have enough horsepower". Mark Donohue
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10-06-2011, 04:24 AM
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Senile Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Buffalo, NY USA,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Torqued
On 2816 i found that the splines on the back of the hub would bottom out before the proper torque was applied to the bearings. we machined out about .040 of the splins in the back of the hub so that the assembly would tighten up correctly. without doing this the bearings never received the right preload and would start to separate and loosen up in the housing.
In the picture you can see the counter bore. Once we did this not any more wheel bearing problems.
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Some cars in the 2800-2900's range may have that issue. There is a procedure for rectifing this concern. If you can "rock" your rear wheel up/down, fore/aft wih the rear jacked up you may have the issue. We have had one car that had the concern. The cause was a "stack up" of tolerences between the hub machining and the alxle vendor. As stated the axle nut bottoms out before the splined shaft is fully seated in the hub allowing the hub to "walk" in and out on the splines. The factory repair involves machining the rear face of the hub to allow the splines to pass through the hub further. I can provide a factory diagram outlining the procedure. It is not a difficult procedure.
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"I'm high all right, but on the real thing....powerful gasoline and a clean windshield..."
rick@autoventureusa.net
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10-06-2011, 05:17 PM
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CC Member
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Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance Ford 393
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Many thanks to you guys for the help. I came home from work and was able to disconnect the lower control arm (Thanks 2Torqued for the pic) The assembly is now off the car and I will be getting the new bearing pressed in tomorrow.
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10-07-2011, 11:36 AM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance Ford 393
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I dropped the assembly off at my mechanic's shop, however, he said he wouldn't be able to get to it immediately. He did comment that he didn't like the amount of wobble or play that was present in the hub. He said he would check everything out but feels that the hub may have an issue. I'll be keeping my fingers crossed.
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10-07-2011, 12:27 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance Ford 393
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Mark IV, I was reading your comments again and had two questions. First, when I removed my axle nut and jam nut there was no washer behind them. Is there supposed to be a washer behind the axle nut? Second, my car doesn't fall in the range of chassis numbers that had the hub issue, however, the hub with the bad bearing did have that same movement that you describe. How am I to be sure that my hub doesn't need that .040 of material removed? Is it better to just replace the hub should there be any question? What does a new hub sell for?
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10-07-2011, 12:35 PM
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Senile Club Cobra Member
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Location: Buffalo, NY USA,
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I would need to look up the hub cost but machining the hub will be less costly for sure.
Email or PM me and I'll send you a diagram.
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"I'm high all right, but on the real thing....powerful gasoline and a clean windshield..."
rick@autoventureusa.net
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10-07-2011, 12:45 PM
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CC Member
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Cobra Make, Engine: SPF MKIII, Roush 427RRRR
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have your shop slide the hub on the spline and check the distance between the two surfaces and then check that measurement to the stack of bearings. The bearings should be larger than the gap in the hub assembly. As to the washer, I don't think mine had a washer ether .
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"If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you finally have enough horsepower". Mark Donohue
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10-07-2011, 01:04 PM
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CC Member
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Cobra Make, Engine: SPF#0760
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Check my gallery for a cross section of the rear upright...Hope this helps
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Wiring Diagrams: SPF MKII, MKIII, GT40, CSX7000, CSX8000, Corvette Grand Sport, and Shelby Sebring, Bondurant & Cinema Tribute Cars.
Owners Manuals: SPF MKII, CSX7000, CSX8000, Sebring, Bondurant, Cinema Tribute Cars $ GT40s..
Large, easy to read and trace schematics with part numbers, wire colors, wire gauge, fuses, and electrical upgrade information. Trouble-shooting and replacement part numbers for those roadside repair adventures.
SPFWiringDiagrams@Comcast.net
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10-07-2011, 01:20 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance Ford 393
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I just got word from my mechanic. The hub is bad. He said that the part of the hub that contacts the bearing is worn. He thinks either the hub was not machined properly or the axle nut was too tight. Either way, he suggested replacing the hub. My questions now are is the hub a Ford part or a SPF part and what it's going to cost?
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10-07-2011, 01:28 PM
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Just an FYI because I've seen this happen before, when the hub is pressed into the new bearing, the inner race is what needs to be pressed against. W/O doing so, the inner race can seperate in the center and it's gets sloppy.
Larry
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10-07-2011, 01:48 PM
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Senile Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Feb 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chatterbox5333
I just got word from my mechanic. The hub is bad. He said that the part of the hub that contacts the bearing is worn. He thinks either the hub was not machined properly or the axle nut was too tight. Either way, he suggested replacing the hub. My questions now are is the hub a Ford part or a SPF part and what it's going to cost?
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The hub is a Superformance part. Email or PM me for info.
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"I'm high all right, but on the real thing....powerful gasoline and a clean windshield..."
rick@autoventureusa.net
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10-07-2011, 02:28 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance Ford 393
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Mark IV, email was sent...
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10-11-2011, 01:08 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance Ford 393
Posts: 32
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I just returned from the shop that is pressing the wheel bearing. The mechanic showed me the failed parts and explained why they failed. The hub diameter was too small. The hub was spinning inside the inner race of the bearing instead of the bearing spinning. The wear on the hub was clear proof that when it was originally pressed together, it never seated correctly. Anyone ever see this issue before?
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04-16-2012, 07:51 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Montpelier,
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Former Owner of both Superformance #2666 Roush 427IR and Superformance #1601 Ford Crate 460CI - 486 HP 510 ft\lbs TQ
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Chatterbox. My car is 2666. just bought it 3 weeks ago an have been working through the process to get it on the road. I have a lift in the garage and noticed last night that there is a good bit of black grease that seems to have been flung out of the drivers side axle. Is this what you experiences. While I can work on cars, that job seems to be on of the ones will take me 3 weeks working an hour a night on. (and cursing and cursing) So I am going to take mine to the local dealer. Hopefully they will have the parts. Seems like if there are a number of cars near our production run, it may be a production issue for sure.
JB
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GUMBALL!
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05-05-2012, 07:17 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance Ford 393
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Bannon, sorry for the delayed response. I haven't logged in for quite some time. I first new I had a problem when I heard the noise coming from the wheel assembly. A quick peek at the assembly showed minor amounts of black grease in between the halfshaft end and the upright. I jacked the wheel off the ground and found that I had side to side play with the wheel. The new bearing and hub fixed the problem. I'm not sure why or how it failed so quick but the the replacement is holding up just fine.
Should you have the same problem and plan to fix it yourself, know that the wheel bearing is a common stock Ford bearing (the same that fits a Windstar minivan) and the hub is from Ford Racing part listed under kit car hub.
I hope this helps. If you need the part #s or anything else, do not hesitate to ask.
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