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SPF rear wheel bearing removal help...
I just discovered that my rear wheel bearing is bad and ordered a new bearing today . Is there a link that someone can recommend that has the step by step instructions on the removal and installation? Thanks in advance...
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Thank you DSM351 for the information. I will be joining today...
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SCOF has the instructions.
The bearing is retained by a circlip and must be pressed out/in of the hub. You will need a new axle retaining nut on the axle where it passes through the hub. These are "one time" use type nuts and must be torqued to 175 Lb/Ft. What is your chassis number? |
Thanks Mark IV. My SPF is #2600. The car has only 1900 miles on it. I was surprised that a bearing would go bad so soon. Anyway, Where would I get that one time use nut? SPF dealer or at any parts store? Are there any other things I should know before starting this repair? Sounds like you've done this repair before...
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Hi Chatterbox,
Mine has 30,000 miles with no bearing failures. And others have many more miles, so you need to look for the root cause. I think I remember that someone else had an issue like that and it was improper drive shaft installation. Also like Mark IV (he is very knowledgable) said DO NOT REUSE that axle nut. I was thinking it was 250 ft pounds, but I'm old!!! Also some cars have double axle nuts, but I don't know for your serial number. SCOF will know how your car should have been setup, we will see you over there. r |
Oops forgot, here are the places to start looking for parts.
Parts aren't listed on the websites, you will need to call them. Superformance MKIII GT40 and Coupe Chassis Parts olthoffracing.com |
Quote:
You will need a 26MM deep socket for the axle nut. I will double check the torque requirement, the 175 is off the top of my head. When you remove the upright to press the bearing out/in be sure to count the spacers on the upper arm outer rod end and replace them in the same posistion front/rear. The job is not hard and will only take a couple of hours total. |
I appreciate all your help. I will let you know how it goes...
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Thanks for all the help. I will keep you posted on my progress... BTW, I hope it is only 175 ft lbs. My torq wrench only goes to 200. I will have to get a new 3/4" torq wrench to make 250ft lbs.
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FYI, the Ford torque spec for that nut is 250 ft/lbs on the T-Bird SC.
Larry |
Bearing and axle nut are ordered. SPOA membership is pending. I have the car jacked up and the tire is removed. I will stop here until the SPOA membership is finalized. I'd like to have the instructions before I go any further. Obviously, the brake assembly is next. At that point I don't know whether to remove the bolts to the rear of the upright or not...
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This may help to some extent. Obviously, some it doesn't apply as Thunderbirds use a different hub carrier (upright) but it does have some good info just the same.
Larry Super Coupe Club of America |
Ok, patience is not a quality I have. I grew tired of waiting for the SCOF membership to clear. I went with what I know and removed the brake caliper,center cap, wheel pin nuts. I marked all nuts and parts in order for them to be reassemled exactly where they started. So far so good. Now I'm looking at not one but two axle nuts. These are on there pretty good. I need to find a long pipe to get the leverage I need on my breaker bar...
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These axle nuts are not only on with 250 ft lbs but they used enough red thread lock to hold back a train. Any thoughts on using an impact wrench? I normally would avoid using one here to limit any stress on other parts but I am using a 3 foot pipe on a breaker bar with no effect.
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Two axles nuts? Is that a nut and jamb nut?
If so, you'll need to remove the jamb nut first and then the main nut. I would probably use an impact with a little light oil. You're not going to reuse the nuts anyway. Larry |
I would go ahead with the impact wrench, probably a lot less stress on everything than prying with a 3' breaker bar. Do you have a torch to apply heat to the red lock tight? When you re-assemble look for pressure on the bearing from those axle nuts. Like too short of drive shaft or too short of axle stub, something that causes side pressure on the bearing.
r |
I got axle nuts from The Driveshaft Shop for mine. They have a one-piece machined locking nut I liked a lot better than the Ford nut. The Ford nut was a stacked series of thin nuts held in place by sheet metal cage that formed the assembly. Probably works just fine but I liked the DSS nut better.
Larry |
I hosed the nut down with PB Blaster last night and again this morning. Tonight I will heat the nut and use an impact wrench on it. I also picked up the new axle nut from Ford. It is the stacked nut encased in sheetmetal type. Is one enough or should I reassemble using a second as a jam nut?
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Axle Nut
If you send me your email address offline, I'll send you a Service bullletin tonight regarding the axle nut installation as reference...This document was regarding an issue in cars built #1529 thru #2200 but still contains good info on the nut install.
Blas |
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