SPF dash mirror mount placement and side pipe opening template

madmaxx · #1 (**permalink**) 01-13-2014, 02:42 PM

Currently my review mirror is mounted on a rod running parallel to the windsheild. The bracket for the dash mount was in the trunk. Any specific placement besides in the center of the windsheild. I hate drilling holes in the dash but the rear view mirror as it is now vibrates way to much while driving. It appears the tonnea cover has a cut out for it.

Another question is there a template for the sidep pipe openings. My passenger side needs cleaned up after the side pipes beat it up. Good news is it was cut smaller than the driver side to begin with so when it gets squared up the damage will be gone and still the same size as driver side. Any special hints to cut the fiberglass straight?

Thanks, you can tell I finally have it sorted with question like this.

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 01-13-2014, 03:10 PM

Here's a rip from my ERA stuff. The mirror is not supposed to be right down the middle.

madmaxx · #3 (**permalink**) 01-13-2014, 03:27 PM

Wow!!!! what the reason for the offset? Yours is also in front of the snap post.

patrickt · #4 (**permalink**) 01-13-2014, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Wow!!!! what the reason for the offset? Yours is also in front of the snap post.

I don't know. Maybe they just started doing it that way for a really goofy reason, or for no reason at all, and then just kept doing it that way because "that's the way we've always done it."

SPF2948 · #5 (**permalink**) 01-13-2014, 05:17 PM

My 427SR is the smoothest running engine I've ever seen in a hot rod but my dash mounted mirror is just a blur at any speed above an idle. The fender mount mirror isn't any better. I can identify with Alan Shepard on the Mercury rocket! I'm going to have to cobble up something - maybe a dash mount video with a remote lense pointed aft.

madmaxx · #6 (**permalink**) 01-13-2014, 05:47 PM

trust me the dash mount is better than the "windshield' mount. side view mirror is useless but somebody makes a mirror that mounts to the side of the windshield.

madmaxx · #7 (**permalink**) 01-13-2014, 05:48 PM

make sure you have the energy absorb motor mounts from oltoff. if not look at the bottom of your passenger side pipe opening.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SF2948

My 427SR is the smoothest running engine I've ever seen in a hot rod but my dash mounted mirror is just a blur at any speed above an idle. The fender mount mirror isn't any better. I can identify with Alan Shepard on the Mercury rocket! I'm going to have to cobble up something - maybe a dash mount video with a remote lense pointed aft.

patrickt · #8 (**permalink**) 01-13-2014, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madmaxx

trust me the dash mount is better than the "windshield' mount. side view mirror is useless but somebody makes a mirror that mounts to the side of the windshield.

A really high quality convex mirror (not the cheapo trailer stick on mirrors) work really well on the driver's side fender. Unfortunately, the good ones are around $400. But see my thread here: A Replacement Convex Mirror that Really Works where I switched out the mirror glass and internals and did a beautiful job, if I do say so myself....

madmaxx · #9 (**permalink**) 01-13-2014, 07:19 PM

Ok, how the heck do you remove the old glass, or better off install the new mirror without breaking it? Mine is the standard aftermarket bullet style.

patrickt · #10 (**permalink**) 01-13-2014, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Ok, how the heck do you remove the old glass, or better off install the new mirror without breaking it? Mine is the standard aftermarket bullet style.

You pop the old mirror out by using a razor around the perimeter, thus destroying the old gasket in the process. The gasket is really nothing more than what appears to be a solid core wire of about 14 gauge with the plastic insulation around it. First you mock up the new gasket around the perimeter of the new glass and the housing, trim it so it fits, then silicone it in without the glass. After that is dry, then just follow my instructions for compressing the spring with dental floss while you use silicone on the glass to the gasket. Really, you could just smash the old glass since you're not going to use it again. This is not a tough job... and I have no idea why the convex mirror glass of that quality is so hard to find, but it is.

Mark IV · #11 (**permalink**) 01-13-2014, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

A really high quality convex mirror (not the cheapo trailer stick on mirrors) work really well on the driver's side fender. Unfortunately, the good ones are around $400. But see my thread here: A Replacement Convex Mirror that Really Works where I switched out the mirror glass and internals and did a beautiful job, if I do say so myself....

There is no "template" for the sidepipe opening. They come cut and finished from the factory so there is no need to have one.

Just open it up 1/4" all around or whatever you need. You can't see both sides at once so no one will know!

No easy way to cut fiberglass that has been painted and finished without trashing it. Put tape on both sides before you cut and use a fine blade saw.....about the best you can hope for.

mickmate · #12 (**permalink**) 01-13-2014, 07:49 PM

For side pipe holes I use drum sanders that are sharp so they don't burn the paint.

madmaxx · #13 (**permalink**) 01-13-2014, 08:40 PM

As far as the mirror it appears you are siliconing the new glass on the "outside" face. My mirror has a plastic ring and the glass sits behind. I. Cracked it putting back in and was just going to double tape the 3.75" convex which fits perfect and actually even with mirror housing.

As far as side pipe opening I am nervous but like the sanding idea as it is slow. You can't see the area which was hammered unless the car is on the lift but that's where it is 95% of the time. Great suggestions. When I pull the header to get recoated I will have plenty of room.

Ps E brake is working great with no sign of dragging or wear!!!! If the handle had about 30 degrees more travel you could have great pad gaps when brake off and tons of clamping force when engaged. This would turn a 4 hour adjustment into 30 minutes. Just need more teeth on lever or bigger lever wheel.

Trueoo7 · #14 (**permalink**) 01-14-2014, 04:59 AM

For the sidepipe opening you could also use a high speed dremel.

madmaxx · #15 (**permalink**) 01-14-2014, 06:16 AM

i am afraid it would walk around

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trueoo7

For the sidepipe opening you could also use a high speed dremel.

CWizard · #16 (**permalink**) 01-15-2014, 07:01 PM

Are you sure it's the size of the sidepipe opening and not just the result of engine movement bouncing the pipe off the bottom of the hole? If the pipe has insufficient clearance from the bottom of the pass side hole AND you have soft motor mounts, this could be the problem. (Been there...). Fix with polyurethane motor mounts (as someone suggested above) and make sure you have at least 3/4" between the pipe and bottom of the hole. Good luck.

madmaxx · #17 (**permalink**) 01-16-2014, 10:02 AM

I replaced the motor mounts. The pipes no longer hit the bottom of the opening but I dont like seeing where they have hit in the past. I just want to clean up the deformed area along the bottom. The rest of the opening is great. Right now I have 1/2" clearance on top and 1/2" clearance on bottom. If I enlarge the bottom by 1/4" it gets rid of the damaged area plus I can remove a shim from the passenger side motor mount and center the pipe in the opening. I know I am splitting hairs but I am bored.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CWizard

Are you sure it's the size of the sidepipe opening and not just the result of engine movement bouncing the pipe off the bottom of the hole? If the pipe has insufficient clearance from the bottom of the pass side hole AND you have soft motor mounts, this could be the problem. (Been there...). Fix with polyurethane motor mounts (as someone suggested above) and make sure you have at least 3/4" between the pipe and bottom of the hole. Good luck.

CWizard · #18 (**permalink**) 01-16-2014, 07:24 PM

I understand completely. In my case, I sanded away the worst of the damaged area, then built it back up using thin strips of fiberglass sheet and resin, which I then sanded back to the original profile. Might or might not work for you....

Quote:

Originally Posted by madmaxx

I replaced the motor mounts. The pipes no longer hit the bottom of the opening but I dont like seeing where they have hit in the past. I just want to clean up the deformed area along the bottom. The rest of the opening is great. Right now I have 1/2" clearance on top and 1/2" clearance on bottom. If I enlarge the bottom by 1/4" it gets rid of the damaged area plus I can remove a shim from the passenger side motor mount and center the pipe in the opening. I know I am splitting hairs but I am bored.

madmaxx · #19 (**permalink**) 01-17-2014, 06:15 AM

You did it the right way!!!!!!!!!!! never messed with fiberglass this could be a good learning opportunity.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CWizard

I understand completely. In my case, I sanded away the worst of the damaged area, then built it back up using thin strips of fiberglass sheet and resin, which I then sanded back to the original profile. Might or might not work for you....