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Frankly, you will not be able to find or use a large enough air cleaner for a 482 under the hood of a Cobra. You'll lose a very large amount of hp with any of them. So, with that being said, try to find the biggest you can, and find something that you like the looks of too.
The air cleaner is something I tell customers to buy at the last. Sometimes on the dyno a 1" carb spacer will add 10-12 hp, and the customer will have to make the decision on whether or not he has the room for that as well. All car manufacturers will vary a little on room as well. Turkey pans? Nah. |
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The long version of the reasoning behind it can be found in THIS old post here on CC Bill S. |
Yep, the look is a big part of it. You are probably going for a more period-correct look than Bill.
If I were going to go all-out for appearance, I would build a true 427, using a factory S/O block, iron heads, factory intake, etc. I've done a couple of 427 inch engines, and they have all been around the 500-525 hp mark. Even did a 427 with C3 LR heads and a 2x4 LR intake that made 510 hp and 511 lb-ft of torque. |
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What DetroitBill probably doesn't realize is that, even if he puts a hallway sponge on top of his carb, the first time he really stomps it, that 482 is going to scare the absolute crap out of him.:LOL:
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Probably so.
The Performer RPM will probably net a little more hood clearance than some of the other intakes. The dual carb intakes and the Victor FE intakes will shoot you in the leg every time. I think Jeff Lipton could only fit like a 6-8" air cleaner on his 487 inch FE with a Victor intake. He dyno'd with and without the air cleaner and I think it was a horrifying difference....IIRC, it was something like 20-25 horsepower at the tires.... |
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Only way it will not fit is iff he is using some abnormally high spider type intake, or a 1.5-3" carb spacer. Both of which would be overkill on his projected drivetrain. I'm so confident that it will work, I'll make the following statement. "If he buys it, and it does not fit for him, I'll buy it from him". No risk for him at all in this case. Bill S. |
You sure you're not Billy Mays reincarnated? ;)
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How many others here put their money where their mouth is? Bill S. |
Just ribbing you....and that's a nice air cleaner if it will fit. That's about the minimum size I would use if I were trying to make hp.
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Agreed. Need the most surface area as you can cram in there.
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On a related matter - try to leave your self enough room for a carburetor phenolic insulator base gasket of some sort. Most of the true phenolic insulators are 1/2 inch or more in thickness but there are some other options that get down slightly less than 1/4 inch in nitrile gasket material that will help. The Cobra engine bay is pretty tight and gets warm and fuel perculation can be a very real issue. |
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A Turkey Pan pretty much eliminates that... but, if you don't like the looks of one, then you don't like the looks of one.:cool: |
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I am redeemed. We have some fabrication ability here. As I get into it I may try and fabricate something. Not knowing the clearance on the car I'll wait as Brent suggested. We have our mig welder set up to do aluminum and any attempts I have made were miserable failures but I was not motivated. Maybe this gives me a reason to spend some time on the bridgeport and learn to weld aluminum. I can also CNC aluminum on our wood fabrication CNC if I had to. |
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Talk with Dennis as well, there might be room to section the engine pedestals and gain some clearance. The determining factor there is the pan to cross member clearance. I seem to recall the last FE we had through with a Canton pan had about 3/4-1" of clearance so you might be able to secure another 1/2" or so of topside room. |
I have to smile at all the talk about losing a few HP with different air cleaners. If you have 500 or so horses on tap, as many here do with a typical FE build, you already have more HP than you probably can get to the ground. Losing 25 HP at wide open throttle, when most driving is done at part throttle, on the occasional blast to get your adrenaline going, is arguably not worth worrying about.
HP and torque numbers on an engine dyno rarely measure the same once the engine's in the car. There are just too many variables. Driveability, part throttle response, resistance to fuel percolation, resistance to overheating, etc., are to me more important considerations. Of course, if you plan to race it, then by all means go for the setup that yields the most HP and torque. But I'll bet you spend most of the time driving around at less than full throttle, and you'll never know the difference if it's tuned correctly and drives nicely. |
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