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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2015, 05:58 AM
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Frankly, you will not be able to find or use a large enough air cleaner for a 482 under the hood of a Cobra. You'll lose a very large amount of hp with any of them. So, with that being said, try to find the biggest you can, and find something that you like the looks of too.

The air cleaner is something I tell customers to buy at the last. Sometimes on the dyno a 1" carb spacer will add 10-12 hp, and the customer will have to make the decision on whether or not he has the room for that as well. All car manufacturers will vary a little on room as well.

Turkey pans? Nah.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2015, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by blykins View Post
Turkey pans? Nah.
I have it solely for the looks, which I like. But, as you know, my TP is quickly and easily removable and, FWIW, when I run the car without the TP, the engine runs about 7 to 8 degrees hotter (Centigrade) in just regular, around town summer driving. Even then, I don't have any sort of overheating problem, but it's just something to keep in mind.
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Old 01-16-2015, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Detroit Bill View Post
It will be months before I have the car but I am trying to make some decisions.

I am going with an FE engine. Not sure if I want to do the Turkey pan or not.
Is an 8-1/4 x 2" air filter enough for a 482? It does not seem like it would be enough. Can you use a 3 or 4" tall element and fit it under the hood?

I am going with a Performer RPM intake.

I am sure I will have other questions.
I recommend the following K&N air filter assembly---CLICK HERE

The long version of the reasoning behind it can be found in THIS old post here on CC


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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2015, 06:16 AM
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Yep, the look is a big part of it. You are probably going for a more period-correct look than Bill.

If I were going to go all-out for appearance, I would build a true 427, using a factory S/O block, iron heads, factory intake, etc. I've done a couple of 427 inch engines, and they have all been around the 500-525 hp mark. Even did a 427 with C3 LR heads and a 2x4 LR intake that made 510 hp and 511 lb-ft of torque.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2015, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmustang View Post
I recommend the following K&N air filter assembly---CLICK HERE

The long version of the reasoning behind it can be found in THIS old post here on CC


Bill S.
Bill, that would be a very good choice, if he could fit a 3"x12" filter under the hood.
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Old 01-16-2015, 06:21 AM
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What DetroitBill probably doesn't realize is that, even if he puts a hallway sponge on top of his carb, the first time he really stomps it, that 482 is going to scare the absolute crap out of him.
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Old 01-16-2015, 06:26 AM
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Probably so.

The Performer RPM will probably net a little more hood clearance than some of the other intakes. The dual carb intakes and the Victor FE intakes will shoot you in the leg every time. I think Jeff Lipton could only fit like a 6-8" air cleaner on his 487 inch FE with a Victor intake. He dyno'd with and without the air cleaner and I think it was a horrifying difference....IIRC, it was something like 20-25 horsepower at the tires....
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2015, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
Bill, that would be a very good choice, if he could fit a 3"x12" filter under the hood.
With the drop base of that K&N unit, he can. I've used the same on ERA, Contemporary, FFR, SPF, and Unique's, all FE powered, single carb set ups.

Only way it will not fit is iff he is using some abnormally high spider type intake, or a 1.5-3" carb spacer. Both of which would be overkill on his projected drivetrain.

I'm so confident that it will work, I'll make the following statement. "If he buys it, and it does not fit for him, I'll buy it from him". No risk for him at all in this case.

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Old 01-16-2015, 06:33 AM
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You sure you're not Billy Mays reincarnated?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2015, 06:35 AM
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You sure you're not Billy Mays reincarnated?
Nope, just that confident in my suggestion.

How many others here put their money where their mouth is?


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Old 01-16-2015, 06:37 AM
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Just ribbing you....and that's a nice air cleaner if it will fit. That's about the minimum size I would use if I were trying to make hp.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2015, 06:42 AM
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Just ribbing you....and that's a nice air cleaner if it will fit. That's about the minimum size I would use if I were trying to make hp.
Much better than a turkey pan and filter set up
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2015, 06:45 AM
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Agreed. Need the most surface area as you can cram in there.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2015, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodKnock View Post
Maybe it's climate change,


On a related matter - try to leave your self enough room for a carburetor phenolic insulator base gasket of some sort. Most of the true phenolic insulators are 1/2 inch or more in thickness but there are some other options that get down slightly less than 1/4 inch in nitrile gasket material that will help. The Cobra engine bay is pretty tight and gets warm and fuel perculation can be a very real issue.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2015, 08:24 AM
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... fuel percolation can be a very real issue.

A Turkey Pan pretty much eliminates that... but, if you don't like the looks of one, then you don't like the looks of one.
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Old 01-16-2015, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC View Post


On a related matter - try to leave your self enough room for a carburetor phenolic insulator base gasket of some sort. Most of the true phenolic insulators are 1/2 inch or more in thickness but there are some other options that get down slightly less than 1/4 inch in nitrile gasket material that will help. The Cobra engine bay is pretty tight and gets warm and fuel perculation can be a very real issue.
I purchased a 1/4" phenolic spacer from Summit, so they are available that thin. Not sure if will do much good (just installed it at the end of the driving season), but that's all the hood clearance I had.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2015, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by blykins View Post
Agreed. Need the most surface area as you can cram in there.

I am redeemed. We have some fabrication ability here.
As I get into it I may try and fabricate something. Not knowing the clearance on the car I'll wait as Brent suggested.

We have our mig welder set up to do aluminum and any attempts I have made were miserable failures but I was not motivated. Maybe this gives me a reason to spend some time on the bridgeport and learn to weld aluminum.

I can also CNC aluminum on our wood fabrication CNC if I had to.
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Old 01-16-2015, 08:42 AM
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Not knowing the clearance on the car I'll wait as Brent suggested.
You don't have to have your car perfect the day you get it. Ten years later and I'm still tweaking mine.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2015, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detroit Bill View Post
I am redeemed. We have some fabrication ability here.
As I get into it I may try and fabricate something. Not knowing the clearance on the car I'll wait as Brent suggested.

We have our mig welder set up to do aluminum and any attempts I have made were miserable failures but I was not motivated. Maybe this gives me a reason to spend some time on the bridgeport and learn to weld aluminum.

I can also CNC aluminum on our wood fabrication CNC if I had to.
Bill,

Talk with Dennis as well, there might be room to section the engine pedestals and gain some clearance. The determining factor there is the pan to cross member clearance. I seem to recall the last FE we had through with a Canton pan had about 3/4-1" of clearance so you might be able to secure another 1/2" or so of topside room.
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:52 AM
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I have to smile at all the talk about losing a few HP with different air cleaners. If you have 500 or so horses on tap, as many here do with a typical FE build, you already have more HP than you probably can get to the ground. Losing 25 HP at wide open throttle, when most driving is done at part throttle, on the occasional blast to get your adrenaline going, is arguably not worth worrying about.

HP and torque numbers on an engine dyno rarely measure the same once the engine's in the car. There are just too many variables. Driveability, part throttle response, resistance to fuel percolation, resistance to overheating, etc., are to me more important considerations.

Of course, if you plan to race it, then by all means go for the setup that yields the most HP and torque. But I'll bet you spend most of the time driving around at less than full throttle, and you'll never know the difference if it's tuned correctly and drives nicely.
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