Spinner installation

DWRAT · #1 (**permalink**) 09-15-2016, 04:45 PM

I just got a new set of polished spinners and would like some advise on how NOT to damage them.
My old ones are pretty beat up looking and these new ones look so good I want to keep them looking good.
I have a 8 pound lead hammer but should I do anything else?
Thanks
Dan

awfink55 · #2 (**permalink**) 09-15-2016, 05:14 PM

Dan, first and most important, Don't Use a Lead Hammer !!!!.......you need a dead blow hammer or even a rawhide hammer. The lead will mar the finish. You may want to wrap some electric tape around the spinner spokes, not a lot, to keep from scuffing. Also, make sure to put anti seize grease on the threads. And, you don't need to be Hulk Hogan with the hammer, if your wheels are pin drive, the pins do the work and the spinner just keeps the wheels engaged with the pins. Safety wires are a great idea for insurance. Check the spinners occasionally with a tap of the mallet. Hope this helps. Art

Mark IV · #3 (**permalink**) 09-15-2016, 06:42 PM

No,

A dead blow hammer is NOT the way! A lead hammer will not damage an alloy or steel spinner. A dead blow hammer is intended for a different type of job and you lose the "shock" that is needed for proper seating and loosening of a knock-off.

See this video from Dennis: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8kCWG3d1Cc[/ame]

rodneym · #4 (**permalink**) 09-15-2016, 08:14 PM

I've always used a lead hammer on all my knock-offs including my Kirkham ally ones and they look like new.
Been off/on many, many times.

Ozzie Goat · #5 (**permalink**) 09-15-2016, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodneym

I've always used a lead hammer on all my knock-offs including my Kirkham ally ones and they look like new.
Been off/on many, many times.

Does your sig actually say twin-paxton FE
That must be madness

moore_rb · #6 (**permalink**) 09-16-2016, 08:47 AM

Dan-

Just wrap the spokes in electrical tape (no more than 2 layers) and then set the spinners with your lead hammer, as per the spec.

afterward, remove the tape, and buff the spokes back out with a microfiber cloth.

They'll still look brand new when you're done....

Tim7139 · #7 (**permalink**) 09-16-2016, 05:03 PM

If you're previous set is beat up, you are over doing it with the hammer.
Two things I would suggest, both can be seen in that video.
First pull the wheels and clean , very well, any/all old antiseize off and if need be lightly sand down any scoring on the seating surface on the wheels.
Secondly, get some of the same Permatex silver, aluminum, antiseize and lightly apply it. Most guys beat the bejesus out of these things insted of moderate. When they stop moving stop pounding. Moderate is fine and my safety wire, I don't think, has ever tightened up.

DWRAT · #8 (**permalink**) 09-16-2016, 06:49 PM

Thanks for all the advise.
I got them installed and they still look perfect.
I used blue painters tape about 4 layers deep on the areas of contact.
So far so good.

DanEC · #9 (**permalink**) 09-16-2016, 07:19 PM

I use a lead muther-thumper hammer on the chromed knock off spinners on my 66 Corvette and on the aluminum spinners on my ERA and it's never left a mark on either. I would be cautious about using anything to pad the strike surface of the spinner as it will diminish the energy transmitted towards tightening the spinner. The last thing you want to experience is a KO coming off on the highway.

Phx Mike · #10 (**permalink**) 09-16-2016, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DWRAT

Thanks for all the advise.
I got them installed and they still look perfect.
I used blue painters tape about 4 layers deep on the areas of contact.
So far so good.

Look forward to seeing them Dan. If they get marred you can always polish them up a bit

Mark IV · #11 (**permalink**) 09-17-2016, 05:28 AM

This in the six pound version is what you want: Lead Hammer - American Hammer

Plus they will recast the head once you have beaten the snot out of it. We have one in the shop that has been used on all sorts of knock-offs and it has never marred any of them, be they steel or aluminum.

Ron61 · #12 (**permalink**) 09-17-2016, 06:11 AM

The 6 pound lead hammer from the link in the above post is what I have always used. I just wrap an old rag around the spinners ears and have never had a problem. I do use the spinner take off tool to help loosen them but that is just for taking them off. I only tighten them until they are good and snug and use the anti seize on them. Then I put the safety wire back on.

Ron

JohnnyRay · #13 (**permalink**) 09-17-2016, 07:58 AM

Does anyone here use a spinner socket for removing or torquing their spinners? Seems like a better way to go. Lots of discussion on the web for Corvette and Ferrari applications...

https://www.oldtimertools.de/Vehicle...AND-CHA-3.html

Mark IV · #14 (**permalink**) 09-17-2016, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyRay

Does anyone here use a spinner socket for removing or torquing their spinners? Seems like a better way to go. Lots of discussion on the web for Corvette and Ferrari applications...

https://www.oldtimertools.de/Vehicle...AND-CHA-3.html

No need to reinvent the wheel. As long as you remove/reinstall the spinners and wheels (yes, the wheels will seize on the hubs and pins!) once a year and use anti-seize, you will be fine.

Ozzie Goat · #15 (**permalink**) 09-17-2016, 08:00 PM

Question: in the video the car is on the ground.

How does the wheel seat to the hub as the spinner is tightened if the car is sitting on the ground ??

Doesn't make sense to me.

razerwire · #16 (**permalink**) 09-17-2016, 08:31 PM

The wheel won't move when you take the spinner off if you don't move the car. You can put the spinner back on just fine. I heard him hit the rim which is why I put towel on rim in case I miss. I have changed from Halibrand spinners to stainless Shelby spinners without raising the car. When I change wheels from Trigo to Halibrand Magnesium The car is off ground, I tap spinners on to contact then lower car to finish because I'm not comfortable hitting on suspension hanging in air. I use white lithium grease not anti-seize, for 25 years without a problem, easy to clean up, reapply every time wheels changed . Everyone has their own way I'm sure. You will to.

Ozzie Goat · #17 (**permalink**) 09-17-2016, 09:16 PM

Thanks Razor, makes more sense.

In the video he's switching spinners, not changing wheels.

DWRAT · #18 (**permalink**) 09-17-2016, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyRay

Does anyone here use a spinner socket for removing or torquing their spinners?

I just ordered a 94 mm 3/4" drive socket that I will be modifying to fit over my spinners.

kevins2 · #19 (**permalink**) 09-18-2016, 07:17 AM

There's another thread on this forum that discusses possible wheel bearing damage by using a lead hammer with wheels suspended. Having the wheel on the ground dissipates the force.

Shootnride · #20 (**permalink**) 09-18-2016, 08:00 AM

I use a spinner removal tool that I made that is similar to the tool sold by Cobra Valley for taking the spinners off. It is absolutely amazing how easy they come off with this tool. No beating, pounding, whacking rims, etc. Then I put them back on using an eight pound lead mallet in the same manner as shown in the video above. I used one of the socket type tools that fit over the spinner that belonged to a friend. Horrible, useless tool IMO.

Ted