SPF Suspension to do order

[2bars]

Looking for some suggestions regarding priority. The engine is being done right now and I have some upgrades I want to do. After the engine, I can not do everything at once. I want to do two or three track days a year. So for those that have done this stuff, how would you prioritize?

CV ball joints (I have the shimmy)
Sway bars
Shocks
Rear shock mount kit (car is # 1765)

[Blas]

Rear shock mount inspection and possible replacement is really mandatory not for the bottom of the list. Your shocks are quite old at this point, but it's not like its a 3800 lb. daily driver with 80000 miles on it. People like the QA1's who have made the change. Same goes for the ball joints, springs and sway bars. Everyone I know who has upgraded them have been pleased with the results but lighter in the pocketbook for sure. The Shimmy, well, that could be a lot of things: tires, rims, alignment, front axles, etc.... no guarantees on that issue disappearing.... pretty much trial and error on that one. Check you wiring, add a correct kill switch, and relay for electric fuel pump. Roll bar needs an additional bolt on outside leg. But first inspect the rear shock mounts. Perhaps track the cars a little first to find problems and then make changes. Car may outperform its driver as it sits?
If it ain't broke don't fix it....
Blas

[Jim Vander Wal]

I agree w/ Blas on most things, won't change this time.

Rear shock mounts can be enhanced using the factory pieces and creativity or with the R/T mounts. The R/T mounts are very well done.

The factory issued roll bar is decorative. Please at least replace the pop rivet with a bolt as Blas suggested. Most tracks overlook the broomstick test as most of these cars won't pass.

Many change shocks and sway bars for additional control and adjustment.

Fresh ball joints & tie rod ends should help with shimmy but there may be more to it.

Tracking is fun but don't forget the maintenance, lube, BRAKE FLUID, brake pads, tires.

I found that a proper seat that holds you in place made the most difference. Otherwise you're using the steering wheel as a grab bar rather than steering the car.

A 5-point harness is good as it will keep the lap belt better positioned. It must be across your hips, not your gut. The SPF seats as a rule won't let the belts wrap around your hips as they should. Not the end of the world but you're going to slide in the seat, at least you will if you're a skinny guy.

Jim
former owner of 1855 & 2584

[2bars]

Thanks for the add on items. I can say with regards to the shimmy. Been there since day 1. Did the tire stuff, alignment etc. I was going through a bunch of posts and saw some fixed it with the ball joints, so I thought...hmmmm???.
My order wasn't set yet, I just wondered; if you had to do one thing a month, how others that have made these changes prioritize.
While the engine is out, we were already doing brake fluid flush and brake hoses.
I agree about hanging on to the steering wheel when tracking, but I can deal with that. Last time on the track was December, that was the reason for the engine. So I have a good idea of how it was last time out. And the fuel pump is not electric, it's mechanical.

So order wise
1. rear shock mount
2. roll bar bolt (check)
3. tires (they were on my list already)
4. Ball joints
5. sway bars?
6 shocks?

Still a very low mileage car, less than 10K
Thanks

[snapier]

I had a shimmy after I took my Superformance (SP01400) out of winter storage. Turned out to be low tire pressure.

[2bars]

Originally Posted by snapier

I had a shimmy after I took my Superformance (SP01400) out of winter storage. Turned out to be low tire pressure.

It has always had the shimmy around 65. And in Arizona we don't do winter storage, we do summer storage... lol

But to your point, I have tried different pressures.

[DWRAT]

The 55-65mph shimmy is part of being a Superformance.
The ball joint DON'T fix it but when I installed mine I thought it fixed it for a week or so....
The most important thing is the rear shock towers.
Once that is done all your other items can be done in any order.

[vatdevil]

As others stated, a mild shimmy is common. Old technology...(manual steering, no in line dampening) combined with a very light car and big tires make it almost impossible to have zero shimmy. The upside is great road feedback!

[2bars]

Thats a good heads up on the shimmy returning after ball joints.
Well tires will be done almost as soon as the engine is done. I will not replace the BFG's with more BFG's.
Avon is looking like #1 choice. But some of the MT's seem as they would do the job nicely at a moderate price. Except for the modern tread not looking good.
The rear shock issue will be done before it hits the street

[jacobsed]

I have SPF #705 and no shimmy. Most likely the nasty BFG's and the original ball joints are the culprit. Get RT's geometry correction ultra smooth ball joints and a set of Avons and your problem will be solved.

[jacobsed]

A couple other tips are to make sure your new tires are zero balanced. Don't let the shop do a "good enough" type of job but to really spend some time getting it perfect. SPF are sensitive to out of balance tires.

Make sure the steering shaft joint connection bolts are all nice and tight. There are 2 of them if memory serves. I had play in the steering wheel and it went away immediately when tightening up those bolts.

Then there is the obvious normal stuff to check such as worn suspension parts, alignment, tie rod ends, ect.

[Randy Rosenberg]

Clearly rear shock towers, roll bar bolt and new tires are safety issues and must be addressed.

I don't understand why you need to rank/order the remaining suspension items. It makes no sense to me (for example) to swap the shock towers AND reinstall the old rear shocks, and then install new rear shocks later - just install the new rear shocks when you swap the shock towers. While you have your SPF up in air with the wheels knocked off, I suggest you change all of the suspension components on your list at once. (Also, you need to pull the left rear wheel off to access the roll bar mount). If you choose not to swap the front shocks and the ball joints at the same time, then you will be adjusting the ride height twice, for example, since the new ball joints change the suspension geometry.

Regardless of what order you choose to proceed, all of these changes are important and will make your SPF safer and better handling. I've done all of these changes to my SPF years ago, so you doing the right thing (IMHO). BTW, I suggest the Avons without a doubt or hesitation...

Have fun,
Randy...

[JBCOBRA]

Put it on scales. The cheapest easiest improvement.

[2bars]

Originally Posted by JBCOBRA

Put it on scales. The cheapest easiest improvement.

Please explain

[2bars]

Reply to Randy
Yup, the rear shock towers, roll bar and tires are first.
One of the reasons to ask what order, also falls under what is the biggest gain. So as an example, if I were to choose between say sway bar or shocks first. What would make the most noticeable improvement? Also are there some that fall under "oh my god what a huge improvement" or "I felt a little change". Never mind those that spent the money and now must justify it (then again we own Cobras... lol)
Forums are like bench racing and there is so much to learn. Especially from those like yourself that have made these changes.
To your other point, I don't want to just change pieces because its already apart if the gain in minimal. If 80% improvement comes from Avons and 5% from sway bars, then I see no need for sway bars at this time. The current take apart (engine) will be setting me back 16-18k.
I really do appreciate the feedback.

[Randy Rosenberg]

2bars,

The items that made the most improvement in handling for me (IMHO) were:
Tires - Avons
Shocks/Springs - I'm running Koni 3012s with 300/325lbs springs
RT's Adj Anti-Sway bars (F&R)

In my effort to chase a shimmy problem, I swapped the ball joints (and tightened the bolts on the steering rack), however the root cause of the shimmy was both missing hub-centric rings and a bad rear tire (failed Road Force Balance test - weak section of sidewall).

However, when I did swap the ball joints, I was amazed at how stiff the original ball joints were. I could not move them with my hands alone - I had to mount it in a vise and use a wrench in order to move the ball joint. Clearly these were way too stiff and binding - I thought, "How can the suspension move smoothly if these ball joints are so stiff?". So, though they didn't solve my shimmy, I felt confident that swapping out the old ball joints was a good thing to do, especially given my investment into the rest of the suspension - the ball joints, as I recall, were the least expensive of the suspension components that I swapped.

I hope this helps,
Randy...

[2bars]

Yes Randy this is very helpful

[Blas]

I can send you the Service Bulletin on the rear shock tower brackets if you send me an email. Explains the problem and the process.
Blas

[2bars]

Thank you.... I sent it to your comcast.net address. Will that work?

[JBCOBRA]

Originally Posted by 2bars

Please explain

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...orner-weights/

Do this and you will love your car.
Adjusting the suspension by ride height alone is a complete waste of time. all that is good for is a starting point.
If you mainly just drive by yourself get it done with you sitting in the car.