There is an SPF chassis number before which the install is much more work. I don't recall what that number is any more but the guys down at Time Machines can tell you. I would take up Mark's offer about the illustrations showing the foot box differences and the steering column location differences. (BTW Mark, I would love to have a copy for my archives)
I used a TKO600 but if I were to do it again I would absolutely use a T56 Magnum. BTW the Tremec guys have a very nice T56 close ratio, road race gearset with a 2.29:1 first gear. The T56 (with the right gear set) seems to have the exact correct gear for virtually anywhere you might find yourself on the street or on the track — and the Magnum versions are Tremec rated for 700 ft/lb of TQ.
If you want the traditional arching forward shifter use the stock T56 location. If you want a shifter that points straight up and in a comfortable position for shifting use the transmission's forward shifter mounting location.
Go here =>
http://www.tremec.com/anexos/TREMEC_TR-6060_1017.pdf and scroll to the bottom of the page for the ratios. You want column E.
You will need to solve the supercharged engine's intercooler (IC) design requirement. I recommend the latest generation Killer Chiller from
Kincaid Performance. It uses the engine's A/C pump to chill a reservoir of water for the IC. You will need to run
antifreeze in the IC fluid because it is very easy to get it below freezing. I recommend a 2 gal minimum and 3 gal (better) reservoir. Coleman's 3 gallon dry sump tank fits the bill nicely, click here =>
Coleman Tank
If you ask them, Coleman will supply just the tank with a flat aluminum lid and w/o all the dry sump oiling de-aereation internals at significantly less than the tank outfitted for a normal dry sump install.
If you decide to use the engine, get rid of the Eaton and put a small 2.3L (or 2.9L if you're frisky) Whipple on it. The car becomes lightening in a bottle. The torque curve is fat and flat from below 2000 rpm to 7000 rpm! A rear wheel power number of 660 HP is a walk in the park with the 2.3L compressor.
Do not use the factory ECU. Go aftermarket. My recommendation is
MS3Pro-Ultimate universal system. The good aftermarket systems will provide you with a wide range of engine saving fail safes that will shut the engine down if
oil pressure goes low, fuel press goes low, temp goes high etc. Supercharged gas engines need these safeties.
You also need a detonation detection and correction system. I highly recommend
J&S Vampire. The owner of the Company and originator of the Technology is John Pizzuto. The technology is about three probably four decades old now. It will catch the first incidence of detonation and before the next ignition event it will pull a preprogrammed amount of timing
from just that one cylinder!. On each subsequent ignition event it will come half way back to the point of detonation. The moment it detects detonation it will fall back to the last know safe timing for that one hole.
It does this in real time for all eight cylinders simultaneously!.
If you have seen the commercial of the bank being held up and the customer on the floor asking the security Guard what he intends to do only to have the guard announce he is a monitor not a guard — then you've got the gist of the difference between the J&S system and everything else available today. This is a must for a blown gas engine used on the street.
If you decide to go this route, PM me, there are a few fuel system design calculators that I used and will share with you, that can help you get to a happy ending.
Ed
Has anyone installed a Terminator S/C engine and Tremec 6 Spd. Before?
Linear Mode
