Inner rfs cv joint seems bad

[tortuga]

Can move the half shaft up down front back, other solid...it's bad.

Put the car all the way up to check for a clunk, well think I found it.

I've had the entire carrier and shaft out, seems like that's my next step.

What is the proceedure for replacing the CV? Is it something a hack like me can do? What is the part? T bird super coupe cv?

Thanks
Steve H
SPF 1764

[Jim Vander Wal]

Pull the upper bolt on the spindle so that it will tilt out.
You'll need to pry/force the inner CV out of the center section. A pry bar usually does the trick.
Sorry, don't remember how the outer CV shaft is removed but I think it's similar to the inner.
Get an axle assembly from NAPA or outer supplier for a T-Bird Super Coupe. Disassemble the boots and axles from the CV buckets.
Press the CV tripods w/ rollers off the axle shafts. This will take a serious press, hydraulic or otherwise.
Put the CV boots on the original axles shafts.
Press the tripods on the original axle shafts.
Reinstall the CV / axles and bolt all together.
I watched my mechanic do the axle work & CV tripod work. I did the balance or the reassembly on jack stands.

I tore up a bunch of boots, way more than CV problems. SPO 1855.
This was probably due to too much grease which then distorts the boot hitting suspension components and tearing the boot.

Well, at least this is how I remember doing it. It's more of a PITA than difficult.

Jim

[tortuga]

I've done a rear bearing so the R&R is familiar...kind of what I thought, those half shafts look really short for a T-bird. The SCOF parts interchange indicates a The whole piece as coming from a TBSC, that would be too simple...

Well at lest I know what that clunk was!

Cheers

Steve H
1864

[Jim Vander Wal]

I should clarify.

The T-Bird axles are not used. The SPF axles are swapped to the tripods, boots and inner/outer buckets.

Jim

[Apex_speed]

One thing to add...I personally would not pry the output flanges out of the differential. There is a chance (slight but real) of damaging the seals which would be another thing to fix. Simply remove the 6 allen bolts that mate the inner CV to the output flange. This is assuming your car is like mine (04-06 build). I assume other years have a similar setup on the inners but I have not looked.

[Jim Vander Wal]

Apex,

The bolt in CV is for the newer style center, cars in the #2500++ range. You would be correct if the diff was the newer style.

#1764 as indicated by Tortuga uses the late '80's Super Coupe IRS, this was also used in the one or two Mustang IRS cars pre the 2015 change. The CV buckets push in and are held by a retaining clip inside the diff, not bolts. Prying the bucket out is the normal procedure.

Jim
Former owner of SPF 1855 & 2584

[Apex_speed]

Originally Posted by Jim Vander Wal

Apex,

The bolt in CV is for the newer style center, cars in the #2500++ range. You would be correct if the diff was the newer style.

#1764 as indicated by Tortuga uses the late '80's Super Coupe IRS, this was also used in the one or two Mustang IRS cars pre the 2015 change. The CV buckets push in and are held by a retaining clip inside the diff, not bolts. Prying the bucket out is the normal procedure.

Jim
Former owner of SPF 1855 & 2584

Good to know. Bolt on inners also are present on cars built with the Dana from the ‘04-‘06 GTO like mine but did not know what car numbers those covered. I know nothing about the earlier cars. The Dana has retaining clips as well so you can take the CV out with the output flange attached but I generally wouldn’t.

[tortuga]

Is the little yoke thing which gave up all of its roller bearings: the surface of the big housing doesn't look all that bad considering there were dozens of little roller bearings free in there: BUT thinking about it those bearings while driving straight ahead ar nt turning right? Those rollers just need to fit snug in the big housing and be able to rotate slightly with bumps and turns right?

Really just need a new yoke and bearings pressed on after the old one comes off?

[Jim Vander Wal]

Tortuga,

Yes, you might be OK just replacing the tripod/yoke thing but finding that piece alone might be difficult. Replacing the tripod is the hard part and the axles are not that expensive or at least weren't 5-6 years ago when I was breaking things.

You'll need boot clamp straps and the tightening tool too.

Don't use more than Ford's recommendation of grease, excessive grease (weight) is what stretches the boot.

Jim



Jim

[blurider]

I recently replaced both boots on my axle. I was able to remove the three cv bearing assembly with a puller and a little heat. When reinstalling I put the shaft in the freezer and the bearing assembly in a 400 degree toaster oven. I also had a 1 1/4 X 8" piece of copper pipe on hand along with a sixteen ounce ball pein hammer. The bearings went about seventy percent of the way on and a little tap on the bearing ring bottomed it out with no stress on the shaft or bearing assembly. I did have to order new nuts for the hub side of the shaft as those multi piece affairs are a piece of junk and one time use only. My chassis number I believe is 1471, not sure and not home to check at this time.