Just purchased Superformance Cobra #349

[D-N-A Cobra]

Hello all, The car belonged to a friend of mine for years. He was not the original owner, not sure how many people have had it. I wanted to build a FFR, I was going to pull the trigger on a kit from them, but the price was right, so here we are.

A little about the car. 460ci, overdrive automaniac trans., 17 inch rims, black on black, no stripes.

Things needed: Rear tires are roasted, Aluminum radiator has a pin size hole in the upper radiator neck, All the lights are dim. Battery is fully charged and alternator is working. Electric fuel pump is working but does not sound good.

The first repair I want to get on is the radiator. If someone is interested in telling me how it comes out, it would be greatly appreciated.

[CompFi]

Welcome to the madness.

The SPF experts will be along soon to advise you on the radiator repair.

[D-N-A Cobra]

[raybones]

I recomend joining https://www.superformance.org/ . They have a wealth of information and can help with any repair you need.

Ray SP02290

[twobjshelbys]

If the radiator is a Fluidyne it is readily available from Jegs (where I got mine).

If it is Fluidyne it's a single bolt with rubber grommet on the top and a couple of mounts on the bottom. Mine slipped right out.

The radiator "electrically floats" and this causes the leaks you notice. Do two things.

First, attach a ground strap somewhere.

Second, the unit I got from Jegs included a sacrificial anode (much like a water heater). Depending on the plumbing if there is a spare hole screw it in.

[eschaider]

The radiator on the newer cars can be slid out the bottom with the car on a lift. I don’t know if the earlier cars are the same. A call or email to Hillbank should get you a better answer. Definitely use the sacrificial anode and grounding strap Tony was telling you about.

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by eschaider

The radiator on the newer cars can be slid out the bottom with the car on a lift. I don’t know if the earlier cars are the same. A call or email to Hillbank should get you a better answer. Definitely use the sacrificial anode and grounding strap Tony was telling you about.

I forgot to say... Once it is loosened from the rubber mounts it did just slide out from the bottom. I think I might have had to move something else but it was minor. Maybe loosed another hose - I'm thinking from the oil cooler but it's been so long. All I can say is that it wasn't an intimidating job and I did it on jack stands all by myself, including putting the new unit in from the bottom. I think all totaled it took about 5 hours but that was proceeding cautiously. I learned a long time ago that in the disassembly of things undue force is never needed and if it is it's because something is still connected or in the way.