gauge replacement question

mike knight · #1 (**permalink**) 10-20-2006, 08:30 AM

I want to change a couple of the dash gauges. What is the easiest way to do that, remove the dash? If so, what are the tricks? What do i need to watch out for? I am a pretty big guy so getting underneath is not as easy as it used to be.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Mike

Goober · #2 (**permalink**) 10-20-2006, 09:09 AM

Mike, what gauges do you want to change out? It's pretty easy to remove the Smiths gauges by sticking your hand under the dash and removing the knurled nut that holds them in place

Mark

mike knight · #3 (**permalink**) 10-20-2006, 10:45 AM

the small ones. i am going to use electronic pressure gauges and change out the ammeter to a volt meter.

1985 CCX · #4 (**permalink**) 10-20-2006, 10:59 AM

Big guy

Remove the seats and there will be plenty of room. Lay on your back with your feet over back trunk area. That way you can see all you need under dash and make the job neat and clean.

Justa thought,
Jeff Greatest of luck..............

Snakebit · #5 (**permalink**) 10-20-2006, 11:25 AM

Make sure you have the Chiropractor on speed dial!

RedBarchetta · #6 (**permalink**) 10-20-2006, 11:42 AM

Removing the speedometer also helps. I recently had to swap out a failing oil pressure gauge and removing the speedometer saved me a lot of time and allowed access to all the gauges on the top row.

-Dean #747

mike knight · #7 (**permalink**) 10-20-2006, 01:00 PM

red thanks, exactly the kind of info i'm hoping to get. chiropractor in the family and used frequently being in this car hobby!!!!!!!!!

RedBarchetta · #8 (**permalink**) 10-20-2006, 03:22 PM

No problem..glad I could give advice that I know works! I've heard of others removing the steering wheel instead of the seats. I'm too lazy, so I've just tried to figure out other ways.

But I hear ya...I'm 6'3" with large hands...not the perfect mechanic's body.

Chilibit · #9 (**permalink**) 10-31-2006, 11:44 AM

It is a very recent SPF. The knob will not rotate to reset the trip mileage. Likely the speedo will need replacement. I can feel one knurled knob on the rear of the speedo (maybe at seven on the clock face). I suspect there is at least one more. Once they are removed and the knobs fall into some crack never to be seen again, does the speedo unit exit through the front of the dash? There appears to be only one path to the back of the unit, up from the driver's side. Unless removing the 12 volt plug helps matters. In 1966 I fiddled with Smiths on an MGB. I have come full circle.

TIA

Vince

dlang14 · #10 (**permalink**) 10-31-2006, 12:30 PM

Vince,

Before you replace the speedo, check to make sure the reset switch is hooked up to the speedo. My car, 2293, came with no reset switch at all. The hole was under the dash for it, but it wasnt punched through the leather (at first I thought there was no hole at all).

It was fixed for me under warrenty, and it looks like a little bit of a PITA to get the cable on the back of the speedo, but beats replacing the gauge if you dont need to.

Daryl

Goober · #11 (**permalink**) 10-31-2006, 12:36 PM

Just undo the 2 knurled nuts that hold the brackets in place. The speedo will come out the front. Once out, you can fish out the other stuff. Remember, the speedo will have a reverse gear box on the back that the speedo cable connects to. You will need to make sure the odometer cable is unscrewed from the dash bottom as Daryl mentioned. It is secured by one knurled nut and is part of the speedometer.

Mark

Chilibit · #12 (**permalink**) 10-31-2006, 01:52 PM

All your comments help and I appreciate them.

The reset knob IS installed at the bottom of the dash. Trying to twist it makes the trip distance wheels (numbers) jiggle a bit but they cannot be reset. So the cable from the reset knob to the speedo must be connected. Just not working correctly.

It must take good hands to reach the knobs. No way around that I guess. If the dealer sends me a replacement, I can look at the new one and get my bearings. I suppose the reversing gear will need to be migrated to the new unit.

It seems it all boils down to those two knurled knobs.

I live in farm country. I could subcontract this out, but all my friends bend horseshoes barehanded like some people fiddle with worry beads. They are not going to fit those mitts into that space. I better figure out how to do this myself. I should replace the speedo with an hour meter like a proper motor and use that to trigger oil changes. Is that gauge original? Yep, and rare.

Ciao,

Vince

ox_ford_guy · #13 (**permalink**) 10-31-2006, 02:05 PM

Try to take out the speedometer as Goober said to get to the others. It helps alot for anything under the dash for us bigger or older guys.. ox_ford_guy

RedBarchetta · #14 (**permalink**) 10-31-2006, 02:22 PM

The reset knob should move the dials...turn it both ways as well as push up on it while you turn. You also have to remove that knob as part of the R&R on the gauge. It's held in place by a plastic clip. GENTLY wedge an awl or flat blade screwdriver to release the clip. As I recall I did this procedure AFTER I did the following.

Once you get comfortable (LOL), first remove the reverse gear box on the back of the speedo. It's hand tight...it should turn off with the built-in knurled nut. You can also reach and unplug the light that goes into the back of the speedo. Next, simply back out the two knurled nuts that hold on the speedo. They rest against a U shaped bar that presses against the back of the dashpad...that's all that really holds the gauge in place. Once you have your nuts out (LOL), then you can push the speedo out through the front. Before it comes completely out, you can GENTLY remove that plastic clip that holds the reset knob...it will be easier to get to at this point.

Now with the speedo out of the way, you have clear access to the other gauges. Well, as good as it's going to get anyways! LOL

Simply reverse the procedure for tying it all together and everything should work. Make sure you set the cable firmly in the new gauge or your speedo needle will bounce like a ping pong ball.

-Dean

Chilibit · #15 (**permalink**) 10-31-2006, 03:25 PM

Trip distance is becoming inconsequential in my new view of the world. Post-It notes may be more ecologically friendly anyway.

I also have 10mph speed needle bounce. I thought that was engineered in. An authenticity feature. Thank goodness I drive by ear. And I leave the hearing aids at home. Much better.

Thanks for the u-shaped bracket hint. That makes sense. I may velcro the new one in. It will rattle no doubt. Hear what? I don't hear anything.

With all this encouragement, I am practically practically anxious to get started.

Sincerely, I do appreciate the friendly camaraderie. Awesome. Actually, cobras are about people more than metal. IMHO.

Ciao,

Vince

gary osborne · #16 (**permalink**) 11-05-2006, 12:13 PM

If you have been having a speedo bounce all along, make sure the speedo cable is not routed with any sharp turns. Getting a good clean route for the cable will probably eliminate your speedo bounce.