SPF Spinner to Lug Nut Conversion

[Kenm4187]

SPF 2560 is here, I’m still waiting for the engine and tranny install to be completed. I just ordered some PS Engineering 17X9 and 17X11 wheels, but I am still thinking about converting it to use standard wheel studs and lug nuts very soon. Have any of you done this conversion yet? It looks like you would just have to install some longer wheel studs then you could use wheels with the standard Ford 5 X 4.1/2” pattern.

Thanks,

Ken

[RedBarchetta]

Ken,

I'd be interested to understand your reasonings behind this decision? To each his own, but if you are hesitant about whacking a spinner with a lead hammer and trying safety wiring for the first time, it's not really that difficult. And the safety factor of having "that one big lug nut in the middle" is actually not as bad as one would think. If anything, initially you are going to beat the spinners on so hard that you'll have a tougher time taking them off (until you get the hang of it)! Seriously!

The other issue, though not as big, is how re-sale value may be affected without the authentic knock-off rims.

Also, go to Cobra Valley and buy some of Randy's "Spinner Ease". I'm not sure what he puts into this snot, but it sure makes removing spinners a whole lot easier.

Let me know if you'd like to discuss offline.

-Dean #747

[Kenm4187]

Hi Dean,

I'm using the car for Autocrossing and want to get some lightweight wheels. I have found a lot bigger selection for standard wheels, also trying to keep the cost down as I want to get a few sets. Thanks for the tip, I will try the spinner ease. As for resale I don't plan on selling the car, it took to long to get it, but things do happen. Also not being that familiar with the spinners, I am a little concerned. I will safety wire them, that'a a must.

Thanks,

Ken

Thanks,

Ken

[TKing]

Ken:

Let us know what you do. I think it's a good idea considering the weight of the knock-offs and the hub. I have considered the same for 2 reasons - the sprung weight and the tendency of our cars to have front end vibrations at interstate speeds. I suspect a large part of the vibration problem is the wheel and hub. The hubs can go back on the car with little work for resale value.

Tom

[double ugly]

Are you really competive in autox? If so it may be just the edge you are looking for. My guess though would be that you aren't yet. Wait until you have some hours under your belt and make the necessary suspension mods first. Keep the wheels for a while.
John

[emberglo66]

Tking

"the tendency of our cars to have front end vibrations at interstate speeds" Ok I have 500 miles on my SPF and have noticed a bit of a vibration at 65 to 75. wheel balance is good, guess I could have them check again!!! . any suggestions on were it might be coming from. the hubs look good just have a real hard time with one of my wheels...removing and installing.

[SP01715]

I have 2500 miles on my SPF and I am running 17's and have no vibration at all at any speed. I have had the car in the 130 mph range and it was very smooth all the way up and back down.

[TKing]

The front end vibration thing has been talked about many times in CC and I don't think anyone has come to a solution. Some think the vibration is a product of the steering and suspension geometry or there is nothing we can do about it.

I tried to solve the problem on SPF 140 by alignment, tire shaving, Road Force balance, new tires, wheel bearing adjustment, high speed balancing and lost. I still had the vibration at 65 mph. My current SPF has the same problem, but to a lesser extent. Some person on FFR forum spent a lot of time determining the "roundness" of the hubs, wheels and tires and trued each and eliminated or significantly reduced the vibration. He balanced the tires as accurately as possible and then mounted the tire/wheel on the hub at opposite max run-out positions. I'm not sure I'm explaining this very well, but my hubs are each .005 max out of round. This measurement occurs at a specific location on the hub. The wheels are a max of .012 out of round. This occurs a 1 point on the wheel. I will mount the high points of the hub and wheel at opposite locations and see what happens. I ordered new wheels and tires, but I have not received the 2 of the wheels yet, so I don't know if my logic will make a difference or not.

This is a lot of trouble, but I hate the steering wheel shake.

Tom

[caman24]

My father had a vibration in his spf after 60 mph. I thought it was the wheels/tires but it wasnt. He was lucky enough to find Eric in fullerton California. Eric said he knew what the problem was and would fix it. He would not tell me to much or i dont remember " i think he might have said the ball joint". Sure enough i drove the car afterwards and the vibration was gone.

[Kenm4187]

Originally Posted by double ugly

Are you really competive in autox? If so it may be just the edge you are looking for. My guess though would be that you aren't yet. Wait until you have some hours under your belt and make the necessary suspension mods first. Keep the wheels for a while.
John

John,

I have been Autocrossing for 5-years with multiple groups. The last 3-years in a Corvette ZO6, and I have been very competitive. I went to light weight wheels on my ZO6 and you can feel the difference. The PS Engineering rear wheels (17X11) I have are about 28.5 pounds. The (18X10.5) wheels I had on the ZO6 were about 19.8 pounds. If I can drop about 8 pounds on each wheel and (I’m guessing) 2 pounds on the spinner adapter, that’s a lot of rotational mass to get rid of. The biggest benefit I felt was in braking. I will also be changing the coilovers and shocks. I am going with some Ohlin 3-way adjustable shocks. I am still waiting for the car so I can determine what springs to go with. I have not yet autocrossed an SPF and welcome any information you have.

Thanks,

Ken

[Madmiles442]

I've had the same vibration between 65-75. All the balancing in the world did only some good for 2-3 weeks. Very frustrating.
Several threads on this site and others mention the problem being wheels being out-of-round. Others say it's an SPF chronic problem in the steering linkage. I replaced all my wheels ($ ka-ching! $) and almost all of it went away. Not the most cost effective solution, but worked for me.

[double ugly]

I have a friend that has a race Cobra with Olin remote shocks. ($3200.00) and may be willing to sell them. If your interested I will pass your name on to him. It sounds like you know what you want.
John

[aldersonjames20]

The previous owner of my car (SPF #298) did a bunch of mods to make it a more road race and autox ready car, and one of them was to ditch the trigo wheels and go with 5 bolt. I don't know alot about why, but he mentioned weight and strength. I was running 17" American Racing Torq-Thrust type wheels with meaty G-Force II rubber I noticed no vibration at any speed until I went and bought a set of the "fake" knock off 5 bolt wheels that came on the base early SPF's, but I haven't had them checked for balance yet, and there is still very little vibration.

One of the other mods he did which I think helped alot was he had custom adjustable aluminum steering rack mounts made for the car. The rack can be adjusted at .1 " increments and keeps everything rock steady. He also changed out all the rubber control arm bushings with high end spherical bearings and had custom sway bars put on it. He was a serious gear head!! My car is certainly not as comfy to drive and quiet as some of the SPF's, but it isn't bad at all... and if I ever learn to race it, it will be way more car than I will be a driver for a LONG time.

James

[jansteve]

Originally Posted by Madmiles442

I've had the same vibration between 65-75. All the balancing in the world did only some good for 2-3 weeks. Very frustrating.
Several threads on this site and others mention the problem being wheels being out-of-round. Others say it's an SPF chronic problem in the steering linkage. I replaced all my wheels ($ ka-ching! $) and almost all of it went away. Not the most cost effective solution, but worked for me.

what kind of replacement wheels did you purchase? are they 5 lug or spinner?

[Kenm4187]

Originally Posted by double ugly

I have a friend that has a race Cobra with Olin remote shocks. ($3200.00) and may be willing to sell them. If your interested I will pass your name on to him. It sounds like you know what you want.
John

John,

I am interested in the shocks, please give him my name.

Thanks,

Ken

[double ugly]

He's in FL for another week. PM me and I will give him your name and telephone number. He also has a 673 HP $30,000 Rusty Wallace NASCAR engine with Jerico tranny he may part with. You could be drifting around the pylons.
John

[greg schroeder]

I would enjoy a light weight original looking spinner wheel. It's a shame those that come on the SPF and the replacement 17s are so heavy.

I have no vibration at any speed while driving with either 15 or 17 inch wheels. I've not gone over about 150 mph though.

I have seen assorted tire shops get balance wrong several times in a row. It just depends which guy you get on the balance machine and hope their machine is actually in calibration. They also bend the wheels while mounting the sturdy side wall tires one might autocross with. It cost me 4 brand new front 17 inch wheels to put on two front Yokohama AO32R tires and that was at three different tire shops.

I wouldn't doubt if some of the vibration people experience is because they have bent wheels.