replacing CV joint boots

[double ugly]

Can someone tell the size of of the nut holding the axle on to the upright.
27mm socket that's machined to fit into the hub? The other option is to remove the five pins. They appear to be torq type or can I use an allen socket? (12mm?) Any help is really appreciated.
John

[RedBarchetta]

John, since I didn't have the right tools (strength?) to re-torque the axle nut back on (it's something like 200 ft lbs), I just removed the five pins. There are two types of pins, the older allen type (12mm) and the newer torq type. Yup, I ended up buying both sockets to accommodate each (a specialty tool that runs about $20 each via Internet tool sites). The only problem with removing the pins is that you need to re-align them using a special steel template from Trigo. Yeah, I have that, too....I like to collect cool tools that I only use maybe once a year () , but they are nice to have when you need them.

-Dean

[TKing]

I don't think there is a tool to fit inside the hub and reach the axle nut. The hub must come off.

I added the second nut to my car to comply with the SPF bulletin. I borrowed the nut socket and torque wrench from Autozone. I cannot imagine the axle nut coming loose - 200 foot lbs is tight!

I did not use the Trigo tool to align the pins and everything went together okay. Seems there is enough slop between the pin and the wheel hole to fit easily. I suspect the slop is a large part of the clunk that occurs when changing car directions.

Anyway the check torque and adding a second nut was not a difficult job.

Tom

[double ugly]

I called Anthem Motors the local Superformance dealer and they said a machined 27mm socket is what they use. I think I'll take the pins off and hope I don't need a template.
Thanks alot. John
John

[bobcowan]

I think (but could be wrong) the SPF uses a very similar set up as the FFR.

On my FFR, I've replaced the boots more than once (what a mess). I remove the spindles and axles as one unit. I don't remove the axles from the hub. The hub nut is a one time use only, and the torque spec is 250 ft/lbs.

The inner CV joint just slides apart, leaving the outer jhoint and axle attached to the spindle. It's a simple matter of replacing the boots over the axle.

[double ugly]

I removed the pins and got at the nut. The nut is made up of a lot of thin
washer type pieces with a sleave over them. This is not re-usable?
John

[RedBarchetta]

John, FYI. When you reinstall the pins, don't over-torque or they will mushroom and you will NEVER get a wheel back on. Trigo specifies 60 ft lbs; others here have suggested as a high as 80. I think I split the difference and haven't had any issues. Maintain good alignment with the pin while torquing. If the driver is not kept straight, the pin OD can become mushroom shaped around the hex drive. A mushroomed pin will not pass through the template or fit into the wheel. If this happens, the pins can be ground down if the damage is minor. If significant, the pins should be replaced.

-Dean

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by double ugly

I removed the pins and got at the nut. The nut is made up of a lot of thin
washer type pieces with a sleave over them. This is not re-usable?
John

That's correct. It's a single use item only. You can usually get replacements from the local Ford dealer. If not, Breeze has them.

[double ugly]

I went to our local Superformance dealer, Anthem Motors today and got both the nut and lock nut. Good people. I only wanted to replace the pass. side nut(s) but he insisted that I do both sides and gave me the other nuts. Charlie, the parts guy, mentioned that several cars in the past few months had had problems with the nut backing off with the resultant wheel wobble. They use a milled socket to get at the axle nut but I forget the size but it's bigger than 27mm. Anthem has my business as long as I have a Superformance.
John