RH exhaust bracket breaks...fix?

JCoop · #1 (**permalink**) 03-30-2007, 12:28 PM

Hi Fellow SPF owners. My #1052 with a 460 keeps breaking the RH bracket that supports the side muffler. I've changed the hanger bracket, thinking a new one would have a softer rubber insert, I've re-welded it with a round steel support piece inder the break, and now, for the 4th break, I decided to let the pipe hang and weld the bracket in place as it hangs, so there's no pre-loading effect on the bracket. It was about .5" off as far as lining up with the hanger.

I've set the idle from the normal 750 RPM to 900 or 1000 so the loping idle isn't too severe.

Has anyone come up with a more permanent fix for this problem? Maybe stiffer or solid engine mounts?

Thanks IA
Ray

imagine2frolic · #2 (**permalink**) 03-30-2007, 01:24 PM

How about a turnbuckle to stop the motor from pulling. Leave plenty of slack so normal driving does not effect the turnbuckle. Headers, and side pipes have no give, so the weakest link will go.

Insert some pics, and maybe I can give you some advice on mounts? I have done exhaust for 30 years, and worked on everything from Rolls to beat up Chevys. In SF Ca. you never knew what would drive in the door.

aldersonjames20 · #3 (**permalink**) 03-30-2007, 02:11 PM

Give Olthoff Racing a call, they have all kinds of experience with this stuff and can give you the best advice. They have even built their own special motor mounts... do you just have the stocker motor mounts in there now?

James

xlr8or · #4 (**permalink**) 03-30-2007, 03:59 PM

Going to the poly motor mounts instead of the rubber ones will help quite a bit. Olthoff can help with these. The mods are pretty easy and can be done in a couple of hours tops.

JCoop · #5 (**permalink**) 03-31-2007, 07:18 AM

Thank you gents. I will call Dennis on Monday re: Poly motor mounts.
A turnbuckle is a good idea. A major and important mod for my FWD Cooper S with a transverse engine is an upper engine support bracket that bolts on between the block and the bulkhead. Necessary when I upped the power from 68hp to 119hp!
It's worth investigating as far as where on the fender wall or engine bay a brace or support can be mounted without tearing the fiberglass apart from the torque twist of the motor.

Cheers!

imagine2frolic · #6 (**permalink**) 03-31-2007, 07:48 AM

Just checking in to see how things are going. Is it possible to somehow mount the turnbuckle to the frame? Also you need some strong, but flexible mounts for the sidepipes. No matter how little the motor moves it is magnified by the length of the pipe many times at the tip. I'd still like to see some pics if you have some.

JCoop · #7 (**permalink**) 04-06-2007, 10:50 AM

Update,
I will take pics this weekend. I spoke to Mark at Olthoff Racing and apparently, a common problem with "aging" (past 3000 miles) SPFs with the 460. The rubber engine mounts just deteriorate with the weight, shaking, and heavy torque twist that it gets worse over time. They have a retrofit kit with the poly mounts and I've ordered it. Should be here next week.

I'm still keen on the idea of a turnbuckle engine steady bracket...

Tony Aprile · #8 (**permalink**) 04-06-2007, 11:25 AM

Ray..you might also want to put some spacers or washers between the insulator bracket and the frame to lower the insulator bracket a bit so the pipe is not under excessive tension.

Tony

imagine2frolic · #9 (**permalink**) 04-06-2007, 03:14 PM

Another thing I was thinking just as I saw this with a new post. Has anybody tried stainless steel wrinkle pipe with a SS braid? Like what is used on Hondas, and a lot of transverse mounted engines. I get them as big as 3in I.D., and they come in lengths up to 8". There are also tongue, and groove brackets so the system can slide. I need to learn how to post a pic in a thread!

JCoop · #10 (**permalink**) 04-18-2007, 02:34 PM

I received the poly mounts from Olthoff Racing and just finished the install. Pretty straightforward and took about 2 leisurely hours. It did require cutting off a portion of the original pods that mount to the chassis, so the new bracket fits onto it. The original RH motor mount was broken, split rubber. It must be the root of my original problem. Idling at 800rpm, there is no visible shake on the hood now, whereas the whole body used to shake. I thought the poly would transmit more vibration from the motor; but on the contrary, she runs much smoother now. I highly recommend this mod, especially for the BB SPF crowd.

Velox · #11 (**permalink**) 04-18-2007, 06:47 PM

Thanks Ray for the info in your post, I was thinking of changing to "solid" mounts but was not sure who had them or if the change was worth it. Reading your comments and install experience decided me, I will call Olthoff tomorrow. Thanks