Electrical Problem ?

[STL Mark]

Red light above the ignition key is lit - and stays lit while car is running. The ammeter needle is just below the 12 o'clock position (just below zero and steady) and when the fans come on the meter drops to -50 (all the way down).

Car has 1000 miles on it. Taking it to the shop next week - but was wondering what I may be to look at on my own. Belt seems ok.

It just started doing this after I had someone lower the idle a bit (don't know if this matters - and I was messing with the idle myself to put it back - and had no effect.

Any help appreciated - thanks.
Mark

[LMH]

Does the meter return to normal if you raise the RPM's?
Sounds like a regulator.
Larry

[STL Mark]

Nope - stays just under zero

[terry251]

Mark, that light is your alternator warming light. Either the alternator isn't charging, or you may have an electrical connection issue somewhere between the alternator, the alternator gauge or the battery. Do you have one of those screw in, screw out battery disconnects on the positive or negative post? That might be loose.

edit: Also, my gauge also pegs at -50 when the fans come on, but goes back to a positive charge quickly.

Terry

[STL Mark]

I'm thinking a connection has loosened up somewhere. I just checked the battery terminals - all is fine & tight there.

I know what you mean about how the gauge goes down and then back to normal with the fans and anything electrical.

It just never gets past about -5 at the guage. I just ran the car for at least an hour today in the garage - never moved. I've got no gear to test anything - but something is charging the battery - right? - otherwise it would have drained by now.

I had an odd thought - but on new cars (systems) by disconnecting the battery you automatically reset the electronics. Could that be the same on the components of this car?

[STL Mark]

I tried the following - I bought a voltmeter (thanks Blas) and measured the volts at the selonoid. 12.1 with the car running and 12.4 with the car off - sound weird. I checked the battery connection in the rear fenderwell - all tight and stopped there. I bought a new voltage regulator at Auto Zone. They guy there said check the connections at the starter. But I have to admit - no idea where the starter is located.

I had to stop for tonight - can't fire up the car in the neighborhood this late without the popo showing up.

Any idea where to start in tomorrow?

[Blas]

You should be running 14+...
Move on to the next step as we spoke about on the phone...
Alternator check, then if that checks out, replace the voltage regulator...
You should still be under warrantee... Just call Tim at Dynamic....
Starter is on the passenger side, lower rear of engine...follow the other big red cable from the solenoid on the firewall we spoke of. While your there, there is also a large black cable from the starter bolt to the chassis. Be sure it is tight at both ends...
Let me know...do that before installing the new voltage regulator...call tomorrow with any other questions...

[wtm442]

Starter is NOT the problem.

As Blas mentioned, its the alternator or the voltage regulator (maybe). My vote is the alternator is bad.

Just for grins, follow all of the wiring at the alternator and make sure connections are tight at both ends. Do the same at the voltage regulator.

[STL Mark]

Not being a techy - this problem got out of my league pretty quickly. (Thanks anyway Blas - but I had to stop before I broke something). I found no loose wires anywhere. I took it to a local shop today. They put a jumper in the voltage regulator, and then a jumper on the alternator. The alternator has no output. So, basically the car's been running on battery only for the last 50 miles or so. Anyway new alternator will be here tomorrow (JEGS). I hope it last longer than this one (1000 miles). Good news - the ammeter was accurate, the warning light worked, and all is covered under warranty.