Voltmeter gauge wiring

MCOULTER · #1 (**permalink**) 04-20-2008, 01:33 PM

I am replacing my Smith's amp guage with a Smith's voltmeter in SPF 2301. My amp guage currently has 2 red wires coming off of each of the 2 terminals. My volt guage requires requires 1-fused ignition wire and 1-ground wire. How do I tell which of the two wires on the amp guage is the fused ignition wire? What do I do with the remaining unused red wire? Is there a comon ground connection near this location?

Any help would be appreciated.

Anyone interested in buying my amp guage?

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 04-20-2008, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MCOULTER

I am replacing my Smith's amp guage with a Smith's voltmeter in SPF 2301. My amp guage currently has 2 red wires coming off of each of the 2 terminals. My volt guage requires requires 1-fused ignition wire and 1-ground wire. How do I tell which of the two wires on the amp guage is the fused ignition wire? What do I do with the remaining unused red wire? Is there a comon ground connection near this location?

Connect BOTH wires that are currently going to your ammeter to the positive side of your new volt meter. Connect the negative side of your volt meter to a good ground. Don't worry about the "fused" business unless you want the guage not to read when the car is off (not having an SPF wiring diagram in front of me). In that case, just feed the positive from anything that is turned "off" when the key is off.

EDIT -- Don't forget there's usually a feed for the little background light.

Velox · #3 (**permalink**) 04-20-2008, 04:51 PM

You mean like this

Just my opinion FWIW but I would not attach the amp wiring to the Smiths voltmeter. All the accessory current flows through those wires on the ammeter from the battery source and the fuse assembly, check Blas's SPF wiring diagram for review. Those large ammeter wires need to the carefully and thoroughly soldered together and very securely shrink tubing isolated from anything else and zip tied carefully in a secure safe place. The tiny terminal on the voltmeter is not sufficient purchase for such heaving wiring to be positioned and connected there. Attach a "key-on" 12v + source to the positive side of the voltmeter, such as the wire that goes to your lighter or similar, other side of the voltmeter to ground. That's how I did it, works fine

Velox · #4 (**permalink**) 04-20-2008, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MCOULTER

Anyone interested in buying my amp guage?

Oh, BTW... eBay is your friend

sold my ammeter and mechanical oil press gauge easily

patrickt · #5 (**permalink**) 04-20-2008, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Velox

Just my opinion FWIW but I would not attach the amp wiring to the Smiths voltmeter. All the accessory current flows through those wires on the ammeter from the battery source and the fuse assembly, check Blas's SPF wiring diagram for review. Those large ammeter wires need to the carefully and thoroughly soldered together....

That's good advice. Strike my previous opinion.

Velox · #6 (**permalink**) 04-20-2008, 04:57 PM

Egad forgot what else I wanted to mention

Absolutely, Positively, For-Sure make CERTAIN battery is disconnected before doing anything with those ammeter wires

Blas · #7 (**permalink**) 04-20-2008, 07:25 PM

Right Don,
Just think of those 2 big red wires as welding rods.....
There is NOTHING to isolate them except melting through....

MCOULTER · #8 (**permalink**) 05-03-2008, 02:59 PM

Okay, I will solder these two wires together, securely shrink tube, and thought I would zip tie the assemble to my steering shaft. Does anyone think this is not a safe location? Is shrink tubing enough isolation?

Blas · #9 (**permalink**) 05-03-2008, 07:21 PM

??? Those wires are a long way from the steering shaft ???
And one of them is quite short.....so you won't be moving it too far...

MCOULTER · #10 (**permalink**) 05-03-2008, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blas

??? Those wires are a long way from the steering shaft ???
And one of them is quite short.....so you won't be movingit too far...

I was refering to the shaft under the dash adjacent to the amp gauge.

MCOULTER · #11 (**permalink**) 05-10-2008, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Velox

You mean like this

Just my opinion FWIW but I would not attach the amp wiring to the Smiths voltmeter. All the accessory current flows through those wires on the ammeter from the battery source and the fuse assembly, check Blas's SPF wiring diagram for review. Those large ammeter wires need to the carefully and thoroughly soldered together and very securely shrink tubing isolated from anything else and zip tied carefully in a secure safe place. The tiny terminal on the voltmeter is not sufficient purchase for such heaving wiring to be positioned and connected there. Attach a "key-on" 12v + source to the positive side of the voltmeter, such as the wire that goes to your lighter or similar, other side of the voltmeter to ground. That's how I did it, works fine

Odd thing, I disconnected the red wire to my lighter and placed it on the positive terminal on the voltmeter. Everything seems to work fine except my windshield wipers run continuously. I was just going to disconnect the windshield wipers. Any other ideas?

Bartruff1 · #12 (**permalink**) 05-24-2008, 04:44 PM

Mine (SP2811) is always reading negative and will go further negative if the fans are on. The local Ford Performance Dealer checked it out and said (or maybe I heard ) that the battery is fully charged and the alternator is charging normal. He said that gauge was in line and it was not unusual for a Amp Meter to read negative cuz if the battery is fully charged the voltage regulator will stop charging and so the system will draw power from the battery ??? I don't know if that makes any sense or not. Years ago, before the Japanese started making motorbikes we had to ride British Bikes and the Lucas electrical systems were a joke.....makes me think a bad gauge, anyone else have this situation ??

Blas · #13 (**permalink**) 05-24-2008, 06:10 PM

Your car is SO new...
Take it back to the dealer and tell them to "FIX IT." - period.
Make yours work like most of the other AMP gauges in their cars...
I make the wirings diagrams for these cars, so I've seen quite a few, and that's not normal...

Bartruff1 · #14 (**permalink**) 05-24-2008, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blas

Your car is SO new...
Take it back to the dealer and tell them to "FIX IT." - period.
Make yours work like most of the other AMP gauges in their cars...
I make the wirings diagrams for these cars, so I've seen quite a few, and that's not normal...

The nearest dealer is about 800 miles away. I don't think Park Place in Seattle is a dealer anymore. I'll take it into a Auto Electric shop here in Wenatchee and see what they can do. I bought my car from Dynamic and they have been sold and my car is the responsibility of the former owner and I would be amazed if he did anything. I'll send the bill to him and Superformance and see if they are stand up guys...I suppose it could be a installation problem ??? This I know, I will never ever buy another component car, you just get a run around...I don't even have a MSO as yet !! Do you know if the diagram in the owners manual is correct ??

Blas · #15 (**permalink**) 05-25-2008, 07:28 AM

I would just call Lance (Owner: Superformance) first. Any money says he will ok a local shop to look at your car, as would Dynamic. Check your PM for some other information from me for things you can check first. FYI: There is always a period of debugging with these cars, just like a main-stream car, except you can't hear squeaks and the like with these cars....

ttmb · #16 (**permalink**) 05-25-2008, 01:22 PM

Good luck - my dealer flatly refused to make any warranty adjustments to the instruments, not even within 90 days. Fortunately, I found out (with no help from the dealer) that Nisonger honored the warranty. I sent the defective ones to them, and they replaced them withouth any problems. (They carry a TWO YEAR warranty, by the way.)

Tom

Bartruff1 · #17 (**permalink**) 05-25-2008, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttmb

Good luck - my dealer flatly refused to make any warranty adjustments to the instruments, not even within 90 days. Fortunately, I found out (with no help from the dealer) that Nisonger honored the warranty. I sent the defective ones to them, and they replaced them withouth any problems. (They carry a TWO YEAR warranty, by the way.)

Tom

I often stay at La Paz County Park in Parker and we go thru Wickenburg to get to Peoria and the area. I am so fed up with this whole experience that I don't expect any help from the dealer or manufacturer, I just want the problem solved. Who is Nisonger ??

ttmb · #18 (**permalink**) 05-25-2008, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bartruff1

Who is Nisonger ??

Nisonger Instruments :: the exclusive Smiths U.S. Warranty & Service Center since 1949

Nisonger makes (I think) and repairs Smiths instruments for older cars of all kinds. I have had some dealings with them both in and out of warranty, and I can tell you that they are a class act - helped me with troubleshooting and patiently answered questions. I think they probably would be willing to discuss your voltmeter questions. They have rebuilt a couple of my temp. gauges, both in and out of warranty, and also replaced the original speedometer (which never worked properly from the get-go) under warranty. Apparently they code the date of manufacture somewhere inside the instrument and base warranty coverage on that. Imagine my surprise when they replaced the speedometer, after I had been refused help by the dealer, free of charge except for shipping, which I happily paid. They are located in New York not far from NYC, I believe.

Next time I need a temp gauge repair, I think I'm going to use their electric replacement gauges. They are Smiths, but don't have the same dial faces as the "steam" gauges. It's very important to get a vibration-free mounting for those tubes that connect the sensor bulbs to the gauge, and they tend over time to develop leaks. They guys at Nisonger said to be particularly meticulous about the tubes between the back of the gauges and the firewall - make sure they are well-secured.

I have heard that individual Superformance dealers have responsibility for a certain dollar amount on warranty claims, and thus some may be very reluctant to make any repairs if they can avoid it. I simply take my business elsewhere now, after their sorry performance on several items where they could/should have helped. UPS is your friend! I'm VERY happy with the car itself and the Roush engine as well.

Let me know ahead of time if you're going to be in Wickenburg - I'll meet you somewhere if I'm in town.

Tom
2370

ttmb · #19 (**permalink**) 05-25-2008, 10:14 PM

I should mention that my ammeter displayed some very unusual behavior until I replaced the alternator, after which it began to act as it should. I naturally suspected the LUCAS (prince of darkness) gauge all along until the alternator completely died.

STL Mark · #20 (**permalink**) 06-13-2008, 01:00 AM

I had the exact same problem with my car last month. It was the alternator 100%. Replaced it - all is fine. The amp meter works as it is supposed to. BUT - now, I'm interested in replacing the amp meter in the dash with a volt meter. The idea of 50 amps running through that little guage makes me nervous. Am I off base here? Any thoughts??