Valvoline VR-1 10W30 is good stuff.

[madmaxx]

I changed my oil today, originally it had 20W50. I went with Valvoline VR-1 10W30 after discussion with the roush tech and other so called gear heads. Roush wants no synthetic until 3K miles. I was concerned about the addiditve changes over the past few years due to catalytic converters but he assured me any 10W30 would be fine since I had roller lifters not flat tappets.

Bottom line with the 20W50 and a completely hot engine I would have about 45 psig oil pressureat idle, today with the 10W30 I had 50 psig at idle after 20 mile trip in 100F heat. Funny thing is when car was cold 20w50 would be about 65 psig where the 10W30 is 60 psig.

Cost $4.30 at Napa and $13.00 for the Motorcraft FL-1hp although the FL -1hp may be overkill, you can get the FL -1A at walmart for $2.99. The car with the 1hp though.

Anybody else heard or use this stuff?

[Jim Kellogg]

I have been using the Valvoline VR-1 and Motorcraft FL1-HP for several years. I run 40W from spring to fall (ambient temps from 30-100 degrees f), then use 10W30 fall through spring (ambient temps as low as -10).

Has worked great for me. I have had no engine issues (and I run it hard), and now have approx 40k miles on the motor. I have not pulled the pan to check bearings - probably will in another year or so.

The HP filters are not cheap either. I buy several at a time. Our local speed shop sells the Valvoline oil. Using quality oil and oil filters is essential.

Jim Kellogg

[RedBarchetta]

I went from Valvoline 20w-50 full syn to Kendall straight 50 SAE racing oil. It stablized my oil pressures (more narrow band when hot...higher at idle and not too high under stress) and also lowered my peak oil temps. I really love Valvoline products, but had to make a change when my bearings started to go south prematurely. I thought about experimenting with a Valvoline 10w-40 (I think the 30w for my particular engine clearances would be too thin), but swapping out 8 qts w/filter gets expensive if you do it too much.

Oil selection is a real science.

-Dean #747

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Bottom line with the 20W50 and a completely hot engine I would have about 45 psig oil pressureat idle, today with the 10W30 I had 50 psig at idle after 20 mile trip in 100F heat. Funny thing is when car was cold 20w50 would be about 65 psig where the 10W30 is 60 psig.

Just curious. Is 5 psi cold/idle/running going to make a significant difference?

[madmaxx]

Got the bug,
No significant difference in my opinion with 5 psig, but it demonstrates better viscosity stability, wow I almost sounded like I knew something. and Roush says 10w30 not 20w50 etc, it bewilders me why people do not follow manufacturer instructions.

RedBarchetta, The valvoline VR-1 is different than the "standard" valvoline it has 1200 ppm of Zinc/Phosphorous as compared to 800 ppm for the regular valvoline. They have reduced the zinc/phos since the OEM's feel it damages catalytic converters, needless to say I do not have one on the Cobra.

[Blas]

I have used Castrol 20/50 on mine since purchase. I have used both the FL1HP and the K&N oil filters and see no major difference between them in the oil pressure. I have also always added a can of STP at each oil change. I would not use a FRAM filter on my lawnmower yet alone my car. Somewhere I read about adding a 2-cycle oil additive to boost the zinc levels in the oil, but I never have researched it any further. I think it was an STP 2 cycle oil additive for the zinc, but I’m not absolutely sure about that...I believe the secret is to change you oil and filter with frequency. I never go beyond 2000 miles between changes. I always change it before winter storage. I try to never start the car and not get it hot before parking it again because the fuel vapors and moisture will not have a chance to vaporize out of the oil if it is parked so quickly. One thing, oil, additive and filter selection topics are like political and religion discussions.....what ever works for you...

[madmaxx]

STP at each oil change,

You are exactly right, there is your Zinc/pho addiditive!!

[ekrupa2]

first 500 miles on my Roush 402SR i used Penzoil 10W30 as Roush recommended. First oil change used Valvoline VR1 20W50. Warm idle pressures went from 30 to 40. Temperature with both viscosities were the same (never gets over 95c when idle traffic). I will switch to 10W30 or 10W40 in prep for my winter storage so I can start the car once a month.

[madmaxx]

I just saw Valvoline VR1 at autozone for $3.36 per quart!! A buck per quart cheaper than I paid.

What is the justification for the 20W50? That is some pretty heavy stuff, I would think straight 30wt would be better if you need that viscosity. Multigrades are never as good as straight grades because the modifiers take up volume in the oil but add no lubricating properties, the multi grade offers the advantage of lighter weight when cold. 20w50 probably has the same viscosity as straight 30w, in other words 20w50 is not like a 50w when hot.

[Jim Kellogg]

You are starting to sound like an oil expert!!! Been reading up on this stuff?

Zinc/Phosphorous content is very important - especially for flat tappet cams (mine is a roller cam). I run 40w in the spring/summer/fall to eliminate the multiweight modifiers.

That's a good price at Autozone. I will have to see if ours has it, and pick up a couple of cases (Oil prices are NOT going down these days!).

Thanks for the tip,
Jim Kellogg
Breesport, NY