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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2008, 12:10 PM
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Default Clutch problems?!?!

I just had my clutch fail on me. I think. When I push in the clutch, fluid comes out of the hydraulic. Not sure if this is a serious issue or not. UGGH!!! Any help or ideas is greatly appreciated..I just got the car about 2 weeks ago and still have not found a decent mechanic to look at it..
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Old 08-30-2008, 12:31 PM
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Peter,

What type clutch actuation do you have, is it a slave cylinder or hydraulic throw out bearing. If you don't know is it a new car that you had built and if so what manufacture. You have most likely had your first slave cylinder failure. Most replica have this as a problem not really limited to one brand or the other. I can be fixed one of two ways. Replace the slave and mounting set up or switch to a hydraulic t/o bearing. The second route is the way I went but others have replaced the slave and mount. Vintage Motorsports has a good slave and mount system and mount that they have had good success with...Mac
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Old 08-30-2008, 12:44 PM
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Mac,

Thanks for getting back to me..I bought the car used and its a superformance. It looks like a slave cylinder...Sounds like a cheap fix..Hopefully.

Pete
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Old 08-30-2008, 01:01 PM
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Pete,

I would really suggest going the hydraulic t/o bearing route. It is a little more expensive because the transmission has to come out to install. But it eliminates all the mounts, linkages and stresses associated with a slave cylinders. It was piece of mind for me, besides before I went this route I change out 4 clutch slaves of 3 different brands and two different style mounts (push and pull). the money that I spent prior to swithcing to the hyd t/o bearin was more, and the aggravation was unbearable, I lost several track days because I couldn't shift....Just my opinion though...If you would like send me a PM and I can let you know the process....Mac

Last edited by Mac VABCH; 08-30-2008 at 01:03 PM.. Reason: Can't spell
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Old 08-30-2008, 01:20 PM
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Hi Pete,

The slave cylinders on the Superformance need to be changed out from time to time. Especially, if they have set for a whlie without being used. It's a simple deal to change...two bolts and one line. You'll need to bleed the air oot when finished.

Several vehicles use the same cylinder so your local parts store should have a new cylinder. I've got the part number somewhere..if you can't find a cylinder send me a note and I'll get the part number for you.

Good luck!
Chankaron
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Old 08-30-2008, 01:23 PM
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The Slave cylinder is about a $35 item at NAPA. Easy fix.

Pete,

Tell us more about your car.

Where are you located?

Did you know about the Superformance Owners Forum?

Check out SCOF, Lots of good information there for the Superformance owner.

http://performanceunlimited.com/scof/subscribe.html
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Old 08-30-2008, 05:23 PM
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I switched out a hydraulic t/o to an external slave. The reason? Because it is a major job to replace it when it goes bad. It's been awhile since I had the hyd t/o though, so maybe they are better now. If you go the hyd t/o route you need to make sure that it is set up properly and have a pedal stop on the clutch. Otherwise you can acutually can


push the t/o too far and pop a seal. Because the t/o is lower than the pedal,(usually) I use a residual valve, 2#, to keep fluid from draining out of the t/o.
I made a bracket for a Wilwood pull slave with heims so that it would eliminate stress on th slave. I used this system for over 30k miles without a problem. With either unit it is advisable to periodically actuate the pedal to keep seals from drying out. I believe that because most people don't drive their Cobra all that much that this is the major reason for failure. Just my 2 cents. Good luck and have fun with your new baby. John
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Old 08-30-2008, 09:52 PM
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john chestnut makes a good point. I had 100 miles on my McLeod hydraulic T O and it leaked. Had to pull the motor to get at it, changed the seals, and tested it before reinstalling the motor. Still leaked. Out of warranty because I installed the motor and took my time, I sent it to Rob Camp at Keith Craft Motorsports and he replaced all the major parts for a nominal fee. Anyone can get a bad part, but of all the things on my car that could leak, that had to be the worst. An external slave is kind of fussy to set up, but if your layout is sound, the fix is simple ( NOT requiring removal of engine and/or trans). By the way, Keith Craft Engines and Keith Craft Motorsports are absolutely the best for tech support, via e mail or the phone, those guys will take time to talk and they have the answers.
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Old 08-30-2008, 10:21 PM
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Peter...I had a lot of early problems with my external clutch slave cylinder failing (3 times!!!). This whole thread on the Lonestar forum covers my (and other folks') experiences and some suggested solutions that you may find helpful!

http://www.lonestarclassics.com/__LS...925&highlight=

Glyn

PS let me know if this helps. You may, of course, have a completely different setup on your SPF!!!!!
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Old 08-31-2008, 07:24 AM
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Hey all,

Thanks for all your responses! I love this community and glad i am able to join now that my 20 year dream of once owning this car has come true. I am truly in love with my car despite not being able to drive it this weekend now because of the cylinder failing. Does anyone have an exact replacement part/manufacturer number that will work with the car? I am anxious to get this fixed and I will try it myself. I am mechanically inclined but not a car expert by any means and I'm looking forward to getting intimately close with my new beast.

It has some other problems that i also need to address. There isnt enough electrical power to have the fan on with the headlights and for the blinkers to work. Amp meter drops whenever i turn these things on and i have to turn off the fan to use a turn signal at night because the headlights suck up all the power! funny, no??

So, here are the pictures of the car: http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...0&ppuser=35602
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Old 08-31-2008, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRIS DAMSCH View Post
The Slave cylinder is about a $35 item at NAPA. Easy fix.

Pete,

Tell us more about your car.

Where are you located?

Did you know about the Superformance Owners Forum?

Check out SCOF, Lots of good information there for the Superformance owner.

http://performanceunlimited.com/scof/subscribe.html
Don't listen to that Damnsch character. I used to belong to SCOF, but when I traded my cobra for a new roof, I lost my right to use SCOF priveledges. I used to give all sorts of great technical information there too. Oh well, its their loss.

At any rate, much of your woes are from the corrosion of the inside of the slave cylinder. If you do alot of electronic research, you can find them made from corrosion resistant steels. Much easier to install than a hydraulic throwout, and once you do, that's it.

McVette. Long live the cobra. And my new roof
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Old 08-31-2008, 08:18 AM
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I'm running a Wagner # F124279 at the moment. There are several other mfgs. available also.

Cheers, Chakaron
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:32 PM
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Peter...One of the main problems with an external slave is the design of the slave mount and push rod from the slave cylinder to the clutch arm. Here are a couple of things to look for. 1. from what material is the push rod made? If it's a fully threaded rod the installer took the cheap, hardware store route. Totally "kit car"...lose it. Fully threaded push rods are "convenient" but prone to flexing because of the minor diameter of the rod and the usually inferior tensile strength. 2. Take a look at the geometry from directly beneath and look at the angle of the rod in relationship to the axis of the slave cylinder. Are they parallel or does the push rod skew off at an angle? If so the pressure on the push rod causes an unequal side load on the interior wall of the slave, which inturn eventually causes the slave cylinder seal to fail. A skewed push rod also causes the push rod to flex, especially if you have heavy spring pressure in the clutch plate. If the rod is flexing you aren't getting full actuation of the clutch. These are simple things that may cause your slave to fail. Another thing to check is the location of the slave bleed. Be sure it's on top of the cylinder, so air can't be entrapped in the slave. If you have a T56 six-speed, BRE makes a nice stainless bracket that will insure good geometery. the mount also comes with a grade 8 bolt that is used as a push rod...no flex! you can check these parts out at <www.bre2.net> Badger
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:30 PM
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I'm looking for one that could use the existing mount that i have. See pictures below. The master cylinder listed as a Superformance part looks different.






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Old 09-06-2008, 05:10 PM
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AutoZone will have the part: "Brakeware part# 12413" for a 1988 Isuzu pickup - $39.00

crosses with:
Bendix - 12247
Wagner - F124279
Raybestos - SC37833

Sharkey
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Old 09-06-2008, 05:30 PM
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McD00 - I think it's time to seek some professional help to get past the whole "roof" incident. There may be a subtle message in the signature line of your posts.
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Old 09-07-2008, 11:47 AM
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shark,

thanks for the response but those slaves require a different mount. the bolt mounts on mine are perpendicular to cylinder whereas yours are parallel. I have a tremec 5 speed and will gladly change the mount type and slave. Anyone know where to get a mount bracket to accommodate this? Also, when i pulled my slave, it said TCIC 3/4 on it but i can't seem to find it anywhere.

Thanks again,

Pete
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Old 09-07-2008, 08:47 PM
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Take it in hand to NAPA. In the back of their hydraulic catalogs are very good illustrations of the cylinders for each part number. You can also use a brake cylinder hone and clean up the internals of one you have and replace the rubber cup and bellows.
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