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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2008, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by McDoo View Post
The exhaust temperatures at the point of exit from the body can easily get into the 800- 900 degrees F range with a stroked SB motor such as a 392.402 408 etc. If the timing is retarded just a little bit the exhaust temps rise under hard excelleration and will go way above those temps and these are all temps that can and will cause blistering so you need as much free space as you can get.
Check your timing often and replace that aluminum distributor hold down plate with a more reliable steel one so the timing stays true.

McDoo The real one
Looks like I have aN evile twin.

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2008, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by cobras View Post
thanks guys for your time and tips, well im happy to say that i did fix the issue today took me 5 hrs to do but its done gaps are almost perfect 100 times better then what it was, but let me tell you to undo motor tranny mounts wasnt bad at all it was shifting the motor around and the checking it the back under car etc,, damm it sucked but 6 cups of coffee and about 10 smokes its all said and done,

sonow i move on to the next issue the gas pedal the 10mm nut at the top of the gas peddal is tight and all looks good there, i will have to join the 2 sites mentioned above to research the whole site and tinker withmy car,

again thanks to all who posted.
Cobras,

Can you tell me exactly how you moved the engine and drive line over. I have a similar issue, I just installed my motor and tranny yesterday all seemed to be lined up nice (I haven't attached the headers yet, doing that between today and tomorrow). But I noticed that the shifter seems to be too far to the driver side. When I actually attached it and put it in first and second gear it is rubbing on the cut out (didnt have that in the past). If I could move the line over that 1/4" it would be perfect. Keeping in mind I havent hung the pipes and headers yet.

For the record this is not a brand new build, it is just a brand new motor. Same 460 style, Just everything brand new.

Mike
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2008, 07:48 AM
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hi mjmacqua

all i did was loosen off the motor mounts , not the mount bolted to the block, but the mount bolted to the frame, there are the slots that go side to side and front and back also loose off the 2 nuts for the tranny mount, i had my pipes on the car i just took off the 2 rear hangers on the side pipes it made moving things around much easier, i just shifted things around till i got the pipes to where i wanted them coming out of the body holes and along the body, made sure the engine was centered in the bay and tightened it all back, what i did also was lowerd the hood down and see if the air cleaner is centered in the scoop opening, it all turned out great, bit of a pain but well worth it

is your shifter in the neutral position? i was worried about that also but it worked out . mind you the tranny mount has no adjustment from side to side, only front and back so your main place to move is the motor

i also recomend that you hang your pipes before you do it this way you know for sure its in the right place before tightening it all down again

let me know how it turns out
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2008, 10:43 AM
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Cobras,

Very important! Make sure your gas pedal hits the floor the same time your carb hits WOT. Otherwise you put a lot of stress on the carb linkage. Mine was way off when I bought it. The carb would hit WOT way before the pedal hit the floor. I took a bit off adjustment to get it right.

Scott
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2008, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McDoo View Post
Guys
You need to center the headers equally on both sides cause
if you don't the exhaust temperatures will blister the paint
on the side with the least clearance. Been there and done that.

McDoo The real one
WOW...McD00 does it again. He's been there and done that on just about
every screwup you can.
Don't let him by my meat!!!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2008, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MEATMASTER View Post
WOW...McD00 does it again. Don't let him by my meat!!!
You know over on SCOF you couldn't spell either...Hey
for a guy that drives his Mini on the roof you should talk.


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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2009, 05:11 PM
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Will moving the engine put undo stress on the exhaust hangers ? I just picked up my car this weekend and one hanger is cracked and the pipes do hit the body ? I was also gonna get new poly engine and trans mounts. Are the shims (special)or can they be purchased anywhere ?????Thanks
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2009, 06:42 AM
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If you have anything over a 302 you need the polyurethane motor mounts, the pos sheet rubber ones allow the motor to torque over putting undue stress on everything. The hanger probably cracked trying to hold the engine from torqueing over, then the pipe hits the body. Install your new mounts and see what the clearance between the pipes and the body are, I would try first before any shims, Eric at PE sells and so does Oltoff racing polyurethant motor mounts for about $120
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2009, 08:26 AM
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I bought the ones from craigayl and should get them soon. Will the engine sit diff. on these ver. the factory ones ? I have a 427fe......
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