SPF Electricals - - Page 4

mudhenk27 · #61 (**permalink**) 01-26-2009, 07:17 AM

Hi Blas,

My old SPF023 has an electrical gremlin causing the battery to go dead when the car is not used for 2 weeks.

I'm a real dummy when it comes to electrical stuff, so I have no clue how to try to track it down. Past experience with another car makes me reluctant to give it to a shop...lots of hours of labor without being sure they'll find it...so for years I've been disconnecting the battery when I won't be driving for more than a week or so.

Any suggestions...electrical trouble shooting for dummies?

Thanks.....Bill

Blas · #62 (**permalink**) 01-26-2009, 08:31 AM

Your first move would be to check the battery out. I would pull it out and have it load tested, which is ususlly a free service at a parts store. Be sure to clearly mark the positive and negative wires. I recommend that if the + side wire is not red, put red tape on the wire. Sometimes, when battery cut of switches were added to the + side, they came with a section of black wire. An accident waiting to happen, if not for you then for the next owner.
If the battery checks out ok:
Easiest thing to try, which also costs nothing but time, is to pull fuses - and try to isolated the circuit the power drain is on. After you have done that, then do the detective work. Start by pulling half of the fuses. Keep us posted. I'll bet it's a bad cell in the battery...

mudhenk27 · #63 (**permalink**) 01-26-2009, 01:02 PM

Blas, thanks for the suggestions...and quick reply! It would be nice to eliminate this irritation...it's the only thing that really bugs me about my beloved SPF023 besides the fact that Charlie Ponstien put a 289 in it instead of a 427!

I have a multimeter, but don't really know how to use it. When I pull fuses to isolate circuits, how can I tell if there is still a current drain?

Sorry to be so ignorant...I was taking drafting classes in high school when I should have been taking auto shop. If it's too much to explain, maybe you could point me to somewhere for info.

Bill

Blas · #64 (**permalink**) 01-26-2009, 02:24 PM

This site spells it out beautifully....

www.automotivemileposts.com/garage/v3n2.html

mudhenk27 · #65 (**permalink**) 01-26-2009, 02:59 PM

Thanks Blas.....that's exactly what I needed!

Bill

Blas · #66 (**permalink**) 02-04-2009, 12:04 PM

So...did you find the problem yet?

Alex Donghi · #67 (**permalink**) 02-04-2009, 12:38 PM

Thanks for this. I have a boat that discarges it battery. I disconected a radio that had memory and clock still went dead. I will try this out
http://www.automotivemileposts.com/garage/v3n2.html
My Cobra has a Southern 427. The amp meter at idle will peg full + then go back to a regular charge then peg etc every few seconds. Its pretty noisy. If I throw on the lights it stops. any ideas?

Blas · #68 (**permalink**) 02-04-2009, 02:06 PM

Let me know the results after you try the tests on the reference material for the Cobra. Sounds like a Diode on the alternator or else the voltage regulator. Remember the amp meter is monitoring net current in or out of the battery.
Did you check the output of the charging system? As for the boat, due to its probable long storage times, I'll guess the battery plates are sulfided up. Charge the battery, disconnet it from the boat and see if it still dies...Let me know. Drop me an email off line if you like...

PANAVIA · #69 (**permalink**) 02-05-2009, 04:37 AM

With all electrical items off (key off all switches off) you can measure the harness resistance between + and - battery cables ( both disconnected from battery ) with a multi-meter set to OHMS/Resistance.

then you can perform the tests that Blas mentioned and see which fuses and other items impact resistance and subsequently drain the cells'

Steve