Regular or Synthetic Oil?

[zzmac]

Hi All,

Roush 402R engine, Mileage 2100. (Street driven, not too hard) It's time for my first oil change (since I bought the car last fall) and Roush says I can switch to full synthetic now, if I choose.

From a little research on CC, I was going to use Valvoline VR1 for the oil and a Wix 51622 oil filter. I was planning on waiting til 3000 miles before possibly switching to synthetic but I now have the Roush green light.

So, do I stick with the Valvoline VR1 or go to fully synthetic (and if so, what brand and why)?

Thanks in advance for your time & knowledge!

[Bob In Ct]

Assuming you have a roller cam good 'ol Mobil1 is fine. If you have a flat tappet engine I would be using something with a higher ZDDP level like Redline. What does Roush recommend? Don't they sell oil now?

Just my $0.02 worth. This will be a 10 page thread by this weekend.

Bob

[Got the Bug]

zzmac,

Does your engine have any drips at all? If so, you may experience an increase in drips/leaks using a synthetic.

For me, it just seems to make more sense to run a conventional oil vs. a synthetic. I guess I would consider a synthetic if I was going to regularly track my car, but conventional oil and frequent oil changes fit my maintenance routine.

[zzmac]

The 402R has a roller cam. Roush says oil is a personal preference. They have a Roush branded fully synthetic oil that was developed for their engines by Valvoline. He said it had a higher zinc content which he said was better for the engine even though it was a roller (?)

If the majority of experts on this site agree to switch to synthetic this might be a choice but I'd like to hear what the latest science and recommendations are from you guys. Thanks.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by Got the Bug

zzmac,

Does your engine have any drips at all? If so, you may experience an increase in drips/leaks using a synthetic.

For me, it just seems to make more sense to run a conventional oil vs. a synthetic. I guess I would consider it if I was going to regularly track my car, but conventional oil and frequent oil changes fit my maintenance routine.

I agree with Doug. I ran Redline synthetic for a few hundred miles early on, but then I switched back to dinosaur oil. While my oil pan did have an issue, which is now corrected, I went from a few leaks to zero leaks...knock on wood.

However, if I ever go back to synthetic, then I would use Redline again. It reportedly has one of the highest ZDDP (zinc) levels in the industry and the company is located right here in the SF Bay Area.

[Got the Bug]

The weight of conventional oil will even make a difference in whether an engine drips. I had an occasional drip (about the size of an eraser head) using conventional 10/30. I switched to Valvoline 20/50 VR1 Racing (recommendation form Eric/ekrupa2 who also runs a 402SR/TW) and I no longer see the drip. Coincidence or I maybe I have a self sealing motor?

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by Got the Bug

The weight of conventional oil will even make a difference in whether an engine drips. I had an occasional drip (about the size of an eraser head) using conventional 10/30. I switched to Valvoline 20/50 VR1 Racing (recommendation form Eric/EKRUPA who also runs a 402SR/TW) and I no longer see the drip. Coincidence or I maybe I have a self sealing motor?

I think it's the driver. Good karma.

[zzmac]

I actually have a small leak at the firewall end of both valve covers (that's where the dye shows up) which was going to be my next project after the oil change. I don't know the viscosity of what's in there now but maybe the 20/50 will save me some work.

The guy I spoke to at Roush said a 10W30 is fine if I don't drive the car hard. Would there be any negatives if I used the 20/50 if I don't drive the car hard or should I switch to the 20/50 and just start driving the car harder?

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

I think it's the driver. Good karma.

I hope I didn't jinx my karma.

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by zzmac

I actually have a small leak at the firewall end of both valve covers (that's where the dye shows up) which was going to be my next project after the oil change. I don't know the viscosity of what's in there now but maybe the 20/50 will save me some work.

The guy I spoke to at Roush said a 10W30 is fine if I don't drive the car hard. Would there be any negatives if I used the 20/50 if I don't drive the car hard or should I switch to the 20/50 and just start driving the car harder?

What State are located in? The only downside with the 20/50, is you probably don't want to use it in extremely cold climates. I ran the 20/50 in the winter in California and just blocked off my oil cooler.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by zzmac

I actually have a small leak at the firewall end of both valve covers (that's where the dye shows up) which was going to be my next project after the oil change. I don't know the viscosity of what's in there now but maybe the 20/50 will save me some work.

The guy I spoke to at Roush said a 10W30 is fine if I don't drive the car hard. Would there be any negatives if I used the 20/50 if I don't drive the car hard or should I switch to the 20/50 and just start driving the car harder?

I run 10W-40, which would be in between. Also, it is what my engine builder recommended. 20W-50 will take longer to get to operating temperature. Other factors are where you live (cold vs warm climiates) and your driving habits (low RPM vs high rpm), how often you drive your car, how long are your drives, where you drive your car (track?), etc.

[zzmac]

I'm in Canada but I don't drive it when it's (too) cold.

[madmaxx]

I use valvoline 10W30 vr-1 with roush 427sr and have zero, nada drips. Once you get past 3K miles go with Mobil 1. The ZDDP additive depletes over time, sooooo, use mobil 1 and change every 3K miles and you get the best of both worlds. Synthetic is superior to dinosaur oil.

[DougD]

Synthetic. No question. Better at everything oil does for your engine.

I say this assuming that your engine is fully broken-in. Run dyno oil for 2500 miles or so to seat the rings and then make the switch to synthetic. Flat tappet cams need a zinc additive, whether synthetic or not.

I also recommend synthetic tranny and rear axle lube. Will run quieter, cooler and last longer. Garrooonnnteeed.

[madmaxx]

20w50 is way to heavy, roush recommends 10W30.

[SP01715]

Mobil 1 5-30 and frequent oil changes in my Roush. I use synthetic in all my vehicles, and I have had very good luck over the years.

[Got the Bug]

My wife's Mercedes came with Mobil 1 Synthetic. That stuff is amazing in a street car. The oil changes intervals in the Mercedes are usually 10K+ miles (per factory).

I've used conventional oil in my other daily drivers for years (whatever brand) and have gotten 200K miles out of my last two cars.

[JCoop]

I highly recommend the euro spec Mobil1 0W40. I particularly like the cold start protection in cool to cold ambient temps; yet provides for enough viscosity with 100 deg. engine oil temps in the middle of summer.

[vector1]

if you think you're buying synthetic make sure it is what you think it is. some of the oils are blended, or what can be called synthetic because it is cracked but not exactly in the same league as some of the higher priced synthetics.

then you have different additive packages that might make a petro based oil better then than what is called a synthetic.

there are diff. groups of oil, 1,2,3,4,5.

1 being petroleum and 5 being 100% pao, or something like that.

plus the stuff seems to be always changing in formulation, so finding up to date info is sometimes difficult.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...s.php?ubb=cfrm

is a good website if you want to do some research.

personally, i like this stuff if you want balls to the walls oil

http://www.aerospacelubricants.com/

there is a guy that sells it on ebay at a reasonable price also, priced about $8 a qt.

[1985 CCX]

Castrol GTX 10w40