Oil pressure fitting leaking

cobrap51d · #1 (**permalink**) 08-29-2002, 10:25 PM

I'm chasing down what looks like a couple oil leaks. I found the oil pressure fitting on the block leaking a little (what would I call this fitting if I knew what I was talking about). Is it possible that this is the source of all my leaks. I'm finding oil mosly dripping off the bell housing.

Is there a replacement hose and fittings that are better than the one's I'm using. I have a plastic hose with copper fittings.

I believe there may be other leaks but this seems to be the furtherst forward and the highest.

A Snake · #2 (**permalink**) 08-29-2002, 10:49 PM

Good chance that you've found the culprit. Plastic lines are actually nylon, but they can get damaged. Suggest you unscrew the brass fitting that holds the line to the fitting in the block. Check the line for any damage, especially where the little copper ferrule is squeezed on to the line. Even if you see nothing, pull about an inch of the line through the brass nut. Lay it on a hard flat surface and cut it off with a sharp razorblade. DO NOT use a knife or side cutters as you may damage the end of the line. Slide another ferrule on the line and put it back together. Make sure you push down a little on the line so it bottoms in the fitting as you tighten. Don't over tighten or you run the risk of collapsing the ferrule and cutting the line or simply distorting it enough to leak again. I don' know how strong you are, but use the "two finger" approach to tightening. (that is pull in the wrench with two fingers.) Start the engine after completely cleaning all oil off and from around the fitting and see if it leaks. If you see a little oil appear, snug it up a little more.

The only other oil leaks you can get from the top side is either valve covers or intake manifold and those you can usually spot pretty easily.

John Wais · #3 (**permalink**) 08-29-2002, 11:56 PM

Go to Stainless Flex hose with AN fittings.
End of problem
John W.

NROTOXIN · #4 (**permalink**) 08-30-2002, 12:09 PM

Allen,

Call Craig Hill at 'Top of the Hill Racing' for the AN-3 braided oil sending unit kit he installs on all his SPFs.
925 460-5297

Curtis

cobrap51d · #5 (**permalink**) 08-30-2002, 12:17 PM

NROTOXIN,
I left him a message. Thanks. Is this a solution that is final. As in "no maintenance" or close to.

SuperHart · #6 (**permalink**) 08-30-2002, 01:39 PM

EGAD, man, this is a Cobra you are referring to.

Cobras will require maintenance until the day you die. I remember what we used to think the word FORD stood for (Fix Or Repair Daily). Seriously though, if you dump the nylon tubing in favor of either copper tube or braided line you should have no more trouble. Just remember the teflon tape on all tapered fittings.

NROTOXIN · #7 (**permalink**) 08-30-2002, 02:14 PM

Allen,

One less thing to worry about...

By the way you should join us for breakfast on Saturday mornings in Dublin (7:00 till ?).
People come from all over.

Curtis

webebob · #8 (**permalink**) 08-30-2002, 03:38 PM

Call Mark at Dynamics. He has the best/easiest solution. And I think the part he sends is free. (It is a brass push-loc fitting). If he charges, it won't be much. I put a stainless push-loc on about a year ago (got thru McMaster-Carr) and the problem is gone.
Bob

Jack21 · #9 (**permalink**) 08-30-2002, 05:18 PM

I wouldn't use plastic tubing on any part of any car, much less a Cobra. Rubber for vacuum line carb to distributor, and windshield washers. Replace plastic tubing with copper line, and run it through a rubber grommet where it passes through the firewall. Braided stainless looks great, and likely is maintenance free, but I can't cut and terminate the stuff to save my soul. Can't do double flare brake lines either.

If your front brake lines go anywhere near the upper ball joint, or sway bar, wrap a length of fuel line or heater hose around it and secure with tie wraps. Keeps the line from chafing and wearing through.

wilf leek · #10 (**permalink**) 08-30-2002, 05:22 PM

Agree with John W's comment about changing to dash 3 braided line and fittings. Copper lines work harden and crack, nylon lines can melt, and who wants all that precious oil pumping out?
Also, if your connection at the engine end or guage end uses a fibre washer, swap this out for a rubber "O" ring. This of course could be purely an english thing - all our oil pressure lines used a tiny fibre washer, and they all leak.

A Snake · #11 (**permalink**) 08-30-2002, 08:23 PM

You do what you like on the oil line. I have put a lot of miles on my car and had no problems whatsoever with nylon. I've also used it in muscle cars and off road racing applications with no problems. Part of success is putting the line out of harm's way. If it's too long and you have extra coils looped around, shorten it. There's no reason for it to ever get near anything hot enough to melt it. SuperHart is right about copper. The more you bend it or vibrate it, the harder it gets. Use the trick line if you like. If nothing else, it may give you peace of mind. I've just never seen the need for it. I do use aircraft lines for my oil cooler, so I'm not against it, just don't see the need to spend the money.

Mr.Fixit · #12 (**permalink**) 09-04-2002, 01:32 PM

The nylon lines are too narrow to get a reading at the gauge without being dampend by the tiny cross section of the line. Go get a -3 braided. Also, the brass ferrules on the nylon line like to kink during install and cause a leak right then.

cobrap51d · #13 (**permalink**) 09-04-2002, 02:11 PM

It will all be replaced by Monday of next week. Thanks for all the ideas. I'll be using the 3 braided with AN fittings. I liked everything I heard here. I also like braided hose. I heard some comments about terminating the hose. Are there special tools required for termination. Give me a reason to by a tool!

Mr.Fixit · #14 (**permalink**) 09-05-2002, 03:04 PM

A piece of masking tape, two wrenches, and a good pair of dykes (knipex) will chomp through -3 braided cleanly. Otherwise, cut with a chop saw. If you really want to buy a "never get used again tool" you can buy from Earl's the little jobber that separates the braid from the inner liner so you can more easily insert the brass olive. It is only used on -3 and -4.

Rodney · #15 (**permalink**) 09-15-2002, 11:09 PM

I'm also replacing the leaking plastic oil psi gauge line. I was wondering what fitting I will need on the Smiths oil pressure gauge? It appears to be metric? I checked the Earles cataloge in the gauge adapters section and did not see Smiths listed? And how much teflon braided line will I need on a Superformance chassis? Thanx. Rod

SNAKE CHARMER · #16 (**permalink**) 09-16-2002, 06:46 AM

Nylon is fine...2500 mi & no leak since I installed fitting refd above from Mark @ Dyamic. I'd be concerned w/ braid abraiding wiring behind dash,through firewall bundle and if routed over drivers inner fender contacting wiring harness...lots of vibration. I keep all my braided oil and H2O lines away from any wiring chafe after I noticed abraison...guess would be OK if the braided line is protected w/ a sheath where contact w/ wiring is likely...shure dont want a short ckt or fire.If you dobt this is a` concern rub your hand over a braided line....it's abraisiv! Never had probs w/ nylon on many 60's muscle cars as long as properly installed (not routed near headers). Steve SPF758

cobrap51d · #17 (**permalink**) 09-16-2002, 04:21 PM

Rodney,
You can call Craig at 925-460-5297 and tell him what you are looking for. He will send everything you need.

Rodney · #18 (**permalink**) 09-16-2002, 07:56 PM

Thanx Allen, I will give Craig a call in the morning. Is Top of the Hill Racing an SPF dealer.

cobrap51d · #19 (**permalink**) 09-16-2002, 08:40 PM

No Craig is not a dealer. He is very knowledeable about the cars. He will be able to send you exactly what you need.